Stripes

Butler uses the BOP seal. Use the 2 piece BOP seal. BOP themselves admit they have better luck with them than the 1 piece seal they make.

doubt it fixed it. My flow cooler water pump made mine run hotter. My guess is a leak or you need a radiator.

I can't tell if you are discussing pontiac engines or chevy engines. Regardless cubic inches matter. More is always better unless you are competing for mpg. A 455 will make more power and torque everywhere over a 400 cu in moter in a street car with similar equipment. And it will do better with a larger cam as far as idle and build power at a lower rpm, great for street cars. If you can buy an aftermarket block, stretch it to 600 cu in.  It will trounce the 455 engine.  Pontiac went from 326 to 389 to 400 to 455 for a reason. Torque.

go 700r4 and never look back.

The correct question is how much nitrous will it take before you blow it up. I ran a 400, stock bottom end and hot cam with a 200 kit with no problems. BUT, I didn't run it often, I made sure I had an adequate fuel supply. And made sure it had a rev limiter on the engine. With forged pistons you are in good shape as long as you set it up correctly. Nitrous does not allow for ANY mistakes. Fuel pump fails mid run, engine melts, fuel solenoid sticks or gets disconnected, engine melts. No second chances. Also the amount of fuel required to properly feed a 200hp kit is huge. Nitrous runs very rich to cool the engine, thus needs a lot of fuel in a hurry. It took a seperate 1/2 fuel line and electric pump to feed only my nitrous  kit! Good luck!!

Thanks for your incorrect speculation on the equipment I purchased and installed on my vehicle. I know what I  installed on my car, geez get over yourself.  My point is that I have compared and experienced both halogen and HID headlights side by side on my vehicles. I didnt need a physics lesson or deep dive into reflector technology to SEE which were vastly better. I come to forums like this to learn from what others experienced and share my own experiences. 

Cold case all the way. Brass 4 vote radiators can not compare. It has nothing to do with the material it's made from and everything to do with the way the tubes are engineered. The 2 core cold case removes far more heat than any factory brass unit. Why? The 2 core is the SAME thickness as the 4 core, but with thinner wider tubes that dissipate heat better. I've run both the only one who thinks a 4 core brass is better hasn't had a cold case yet.

The fix to this is adding a diode to L wire on your regulator to prevent the back feeding. The 10 DN alternator is so weak, even better is a 10 SI or even better a cs130.

That's not a valve, that's only a vacuum  Tee.  A local hardware store will have a brass threaded pipe that will thread into the carb. Attach your vacume line to that.

Yes I had Cibies. Yes they had h4 bulbs, and 7" glass lenses in my  RX7. Yes they weren't legal, and yes I ran them everywhere with no issues. They were not hard to obtain. They were a vast improvement over stock lights of the time period, and were vastly better than any T3 light. The halogen bulbs at the time were expensive and burnt out often. However, the point was, both are outdated today. The HID lights do more using less resources, more durable, last longer, and are far far brighter in both volume and intensity. They can fit in the Cibie housings if you wish. Cibie sold quite a few pairs of thier lights, I had exactly one pair. I'm not sure what your jibberish is regarding housings, but I promise you new vehicles with those projector  hid lights are far brighter than any 7" Cibie. However, I drive a classic car and do not have the luxury of selecting the size of the headlights, I have to go with what is there. The bulbs I can change.

When GM ran into this hot start issue on 455's and 400's they replaced the spring in the starter mounted solenoid with a weaker version to allow it to engage. The hotter the coil in the solenoid, the less efficient they are and this causes it to be unable to overcome the spring pressure. The new spring helped, but was not always a solution.

Today there is a 100% fix, a gear reduction starter. Our 455 bored 60 over, 10.5 to 1,  Pontiac starts every time with ease with our starter and its half the original starter size. It cost more than a crappy factory starter but less than a factory starter and a tow bill. We went with a Powermaster Ultra Torque Starters  from Summit.  There may be other that are better, but this one has been flawless for us.

I had some of those Cibie headlights in the 90's. They and the T3 replacement headlights are dinosaurs today. Those T3 light are barely any brighter than the crappy stock lights and SUCK the amps out of your likely undersized for them headlamps alternator.

The answer? HID headlights, for sure. My HID headlamps appear stock, use lots less amps than a halogen or OE light, and on low beam put out at least 100 times more light. I don't even use high beams for fear of blinding low aircraft. Ok, that may be a little exaggeration.  But one HID light puts out more light that 4 factory lights by far. Check out https://www.octanelighting.com  and thank me later. Check out the presentation I gave below, and no, I do not work for octane lighting.

April Tech N 10 DAPA headlights.pptx

how old is the gas in the car? I'm guessing its old gas in a vented tank and all the good stuff has left the building. I would drain it and fill it with alcohol free premium.

Hello. I commend you for asking this question. I can and will give you the correct answer based on my experience with multiple carbs and numerous Pontiac engines. No, it's not too big.  The question really is, is it too small? Since nearly every 67-79 Pontiac came with a Rochester carb, and they were rated between 700 to 800 cfm, a 770 is plenty close enough to never cause a problem from being too big. However, the real answer needs more data. For a Pontiac V8, we essentially need 4 things to know for sure what's best, since we know displacement already.

1. Heads, stock or aftermarket aluminum? Ie do they have improved flow rate and if so how much?

2. Camshaft duration at .050". If you open the valves longer, it sucks harder on the carb, hence bigger can help, to a point.

3. Compression: If you are running aluminum heads, 10.5 to 1 compression, it has a totally different need than a 7 to 1 smog motor.

4. Rear gear ratio- the higher numerically the rear ratio, the faster it revs, the faster it needs air.

Many would say RPM operating range. However, when you tell me the above, I will know the operational range of the engine. I ran a 700 Holley 4150, a quadraject, a 650, and a 750 holley, both vacuum and mechanical secondaries on my 1976 Pontiac 400. They all ran about the same. There is no real hp to be gained here. Power is in cam and heads.

I think if you are looking for an aftermarket intake you are preparing to waste $400. It will run slower with any aftermarket intake up to at least 500hp than a factory 1968-1972 IRON intake even considering the difference in weight! I spent the $ on the dyno to prove it. My 469 made 500 hp, 577tq with the factory intake, 10 hp more than a performer rpm, performer, torker, etc...

Give me more engine details like the cam specs. A lumpy cam could be a worn out factory lp cam or a hot solid roller with 250 at .050 duration. What are your performance goals of the car and how much money would you spend to get there? Ive been thru a lot of combos, and can likely give yo some insight of the things you really need to get there. Teaser> intake changes, ignition changes, rocker arm changes, carb changes, and chrome do not produce results. Heads, Cam, Cubes, Compression.

Oh, I have numerous pontiac aftermarket manifolds for sale if the above sound like BS.

Pontiacs don't have oval exhaust ports, chevys do, just FYI they are round port heads even if they look oval to you. 

Why do you need long tube headers? Are you missing the constant leaking, collector ground scraping, high engine underwood heat, and hours spent changing the constantly blown gaskets?

Our RA manifolds don't leak and only make 500hp. Sounds like they didn't bell the pipe out correctly.

Check the oil, is it overfilled now? If so, drain it. Is it running hot? White smoke is typically steam, ie blown head gasket. Has it gotten hot recently? It only takes one time to warp the head or blow the head gasket.

I suspect you have it wired backwards. pos to neg, neg to pos. Give a photo of it, brand and model number. There are thousands of oil pressure gauges.

They fit a 1969 Firebird with no issues in front, so I don't see how it could be an issue.

I just use a end of a regular large screw driver chucked into a cordless drill. Worked fine.

On cars that don't get driven often that have cast iron rear wheel cylinders, its pretty common to see them rust, leak, and fail. I see there are places that will sleeve your OE wheel cylinder with brass or stainless and warranty them for life ($89 each). 

Is anyone aware of wheel cylinders being sold already sleeved or in a aluminum, brass, or stainless material? My 1969 Firebird rear wheel cylinders are about as common as they come. They are used by GM for 20 plus years in almost everything. They are cheap to buy new, only about 10 bucks each in iron. But they rust fast if not driven much. Has anyone seen any better replacements?

What intake are you using?

heat gun works well for me also. I see the pros using them in tint shops. Just keep the heat moving, start an edge and heat the area where the tint is coming off the glass.

check your plug wires. My bet is two are crossed.

It could be in your ignition switch, but I agree the solenoid is likely the issue. 

I've had this issue before and tried to fix it the wrong way, by enlarging the bolt holes. The problem when you do that is the intake runners are not left matching the head ports and flow suffers. It may also leak. I found that my block had been decked and my heads cut to straighten everything out in my last rebuild. The solution is to have the manifold cut to allow it to fit properly. There is a chart that shows how much to cut off the intake based on how much was cut off the rest. I'll see if I can find the chart. Unless you had that motor since new, and its never been apart would you know if a critical dimension has changed? Head gasket change could even cause issues.

Check out this. http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-intake-mill.php