vwalburn

My '64 GTO 2-speed transmission is leaking. Any info on a new gasket for the pan and what type of fluid will I need?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Petronix set-up installed and all is good so far! Next is a gage set-up to be installed.

How true. The older I get, the more fondly I think back to the automotive powerhouse that Michigan used to be. Woodward Avenue on a Saturday night must have been a sight to see and be a part of.

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

Let me ask a clarification question. Are you talking about HEI (as in the coil-in-cap style distributors from the mid-70s onward) or are you interesting in breaker-less/point-less distributors were you don't ever worry about installing points and a condenser ever again but appears to be stock distributor?

I run the latter in Lucy. I have a stock Pontiac distributor that runs a Petronix II pointless solid-state conversion kit.  I run a stock vacuum advance. It's an easy installation but it is easier to install with the distributor out of the engine but it can be done with the distributor still in the engine too. I also run a light spring and weight package to get the mechanical advance out as soon as possible. A spring kit runs around $7-9, a Petronix  solid state conversion kit runs around $65-100 from Summit Racing.

An HEI distributor will require you replacing the stock distributor with an HEI one. A cheap Summit Racing brand HEI distributor will run around $167 (or more for a brand name) - plus shipping.

Also with an HEI distributor you have to re-gap your plugs from .035 to .040.

I will say that I am happy with my Pertronix. Mind you, I don't go racing in it but I still do quite a bit of lead foot / spirited driving on the highway and it doesn't disappoint.

I am sure my other FP colleagues will weigh in with their opinions.

I should have said that I am favoring the Petronix pointless set up like you have. Cheaper and people seem to like it a lot. I'm not a racer either, so no need to get too fancy.

Interested in converting my '64 GTO point-ignition to an HEI ignition. Would like to get input into changing out the whole distributor vs. changing out the internals of the distributor. I have heard a lot about Petronix conversions. What have you guys done and would recommend?

On ‎1‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 6:03 PM, Last Indian said:

Good video Pro! Although the metal part he thinks is a anti-drain-back valve is actually pressure relief, still the video makes the point. The video doesn’t touch on e-core filters though, which are rapidly taking over the market. Even Wix, GM, NAPA & all cartridge filters uses them.

The pics below are from some a very small part of the filter work I ran for many years. The first pic is a re-buildable filter I designed  that allowed us to use any components for a specific filter.

These were a very unique filter from an OEM. Europe if I remember right.

Cartridge filter with e-core filter.

This is a oil condition monitoring system that’s in the wind turbine at the Cleveland Science Center, also did some filter testing for the gear box on this unit.

View out the top of the wind turbine.

What does the term "e-core" stand for? I understand that they are the cartridge filters like the one in my 2011 Equinox? Are they as effective as spin-on filters? The Fram Ultra and STP Extended Life filters seem well made.

I have heard that SuperTech filters are now made by WIX. Very good looking filters now days.

20 hours ago, Last Indian said:

50 PF 47 for the Indian & 65 for the two lacrosses + 50 gallons of  old style Shell Rotella for the Indian & 20 gallons of Dextron IV which was never available commercially.

 Would love to see a pic of all that! I usually don't have anything on hand until right before an oil change. But, I may stock up on oil filters for the GTO.

On ‎1‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 9:24 AM, Last Indian said:

Copy that Frosty, as I said, Amsoil is the only brand left of spin-on filters that is made across the brand the old way. Still, I’m an AC guy through and through. Having spent the last 15 year of my career working with pretty much every major filter manufacturer in the world, literally, I saw what was coming. So I have a enormous stash of old style, Wix, filters, for all my cars, even the lacrosses.

That said, I do have to say that through the millions of miles of testing we did filters never played a roll in engine failures. Most engines today, because of the oil & additives, are really pretty clean. And if you have fuel dilution or a coolant leak the filters not going to save you.

Just asking, what exactly is an " enormous " stash of filters? I'm too much of a neat freak in my garage to keep much of anything extra. Though, with all my cars getting older, maybe I need to rethink keeping a stash of filters around. I've seen pics of people's stashes of oil and that would drive me nuts having that around but oil filters wouldn't be too bad. 

On ‎1‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 7:51 AM, SPRINT 6 said:

I too use AC but for me, I considered an NOS filter to be too much of a crap shoot. I drive my cars way to much to rely on a 40+ YO paper, But that's just me. I was once one of those that fell into the overpriced NOS and Re-Pop "Show" filters but again with changing oil as frequently as I do this get's unnecessarily expensive.  For anything that I show I now make my own with standard Dark Blue AC-PF24s. These are good filters that have never let me down. I just prep and paint them white add on one of those 4$  "Decals" that mimic the OE style filter and call it done. I been using these decals for a few years now and I am amazed how well they hold up. I'm considering this year to go with a K&N with the nut on the end to closer match the correct filter for my OHC 6 but on the fence with that. Ames also offers a copy of the OE PF7 that I may consider but for now AC will do. 

JM2C

CHEERS!

Great job on those filters! They look great!

Seems like you have to start all over every time you look for a filter. I have a hard time finding available filters for my GTO so I don't have much of a choice if I want to pick one off the shelf. Right now, only the STP Classic filter, S25, is at Autozone. Everything else needs to be ordered. Maybe I'm better off not having to make a decision. 

Just wanted to find out if there is more of a preference towards one brand of oil filter over others? How do all the economy filters, i.e. Fram EG, STP Classic, Purolator Classic, etc., compare to each other? I like upper end filters for longer OC's but which brands do the best for the shorter O.C. of our classic cars? Or, does it matter much for 1-2K O.C.? Seems that oil filters are made by different companies from time to time and it's hard to keep up with who makes one filter now compared to years ago.

360Rocket......definitely a lot of work but got to appreciate the dedication. I may be that way with my '64 GTO! Got to keep these beasts alive and kicking!

Last Indian, I very much appreciate all the advise and plan on using it. You have given me more than enough info to get me going. You have reinforced info that I believed already and then some. My oil changes will be 1 year/1500-2000 miles. Thanks for all the info and I hope this will keep me off the topic of Zinc for a while! I've had enough for now. Thank you, again! Will stay in touch in the future on this Forum.

When did tire manufacturers start putting the born on date on tires?

Last Indian, The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner around 2010 and has about 4K on it. No, I do not know the clearances nor do I have a pressure gage currently hooked up. What would be "good" numbers and clearances and how does this affect the different oil choices? Looking forward to more oil education.

According to Valvoline, Valvoline Maxlife 10W-30 has 830 ppm of zinc in it. Several other oils state that they have zinc levels of around the SN max of 800. If that is the case, will these oils protect my 1964 flat tappet engine during normal, everyday driving? No racing and a stock, rebuilt engine with 4000 miles on it that went through a correct break-in. Just trying to make an educated decision for the choice of my oil for the next oil change without going overboard with zinc concerns if I really don't have to. Only putting 1500 - 2000 miles on the oil with a once a year oil change.

Has anyone read this Blog? His testing methods are unknown but do you think there is anything to it all?  My concern with current zinc levels in oil is what brought me to this Blog. Just want to get some "expert" opinions on all this info that is out there.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

So, the best products that work are Sta-bil and Gumout Regane, in your opinion?

Good, basic read. Auto maintenance is being lost with the current generation. Only thing I saw missing from the tire illustration was the mention that there is a Date of Manufacture on tires that can be important to know.

I should have clarified my question. I've only used the motor treatments in my fuel tank, not in my oil. Are the motor treatments PEA technology? I, too, don't like adding things to my oil if I don't have to.

How do you feel about the fuel injector cleaners from Lucas Oil? How about the Motor Treatments that are out from STP, Seafoam, etc.? I always have liked the products from Gumout.

Thanks for all the info guys! True, it has been a great exchange of data between you two. Oil has always been interesting to me; especially being in the aviation industry my whole career, starting as a jet engine mechanic. Looking forward to future discussions!

So, if synthetics are out, Amsoil and Rotella T6 are out because they are synthetic. So, of all the current-rated oils, what oil would you use if no synthetics and no access to older-rated oils? I'm not a fan of additives added to the oil.

And what is the zinc/phosphorus levels of Rotella T6? Have heard a lot about zinc levels going down in diesel oils as well.

For those with flat tappet engines, what oil do you use and is the zinc content of concern to you when you choose an oil? Almost certain that I'm going with Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30 for my next change. Just not sure if zinc is a real concern in a stock 1964 GTO that is never pushed too hard. Only street driven.