Cstacey

Hey guys! Wondering if anyone can help me out with this. My old vacuum switch has 5 ports.several broken. It’s a 68 gto with ac. I have changed my headlights over to electric. But am now working on the ac/heater. I need 1 port to hook up my heater switch which controls the heater vent system. Can I just plug the broken ones and use the 1 good port for my heater/vent system ?? If I buy a new one how will I block them off?? Any thoughts?? Cathy

SOLUTION ( Kinda) ok here goes first of all THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH I found the factory wiring diagram ( it’s all Greek to me) I verified the wires all correct. If not for you guys encouraging me to contact painless k would have never realized that was an option!!! So our alternator is apparently a 1 wire even though they make it in a 3? Wire model! When the 2 wires were hooked up it was back feeding the accessories wire sending power to the radio and the blower motor! Problem solved! Also I questioned them about the jumper wire on the ignition they said common and no issue to do it like that! If the starter was constantly trying to crank which can happen you just add a diode between on the jumper wire. That is also the fix if you are getting. Back feed from the alternator. If it actually was a 3 wire you would put a diode on the brown accessories wire and that would stop the back feed!! Anyway thank you everyone for chiming in and trying to wrap your head around my issues!!

So google tells me that I should only have power at the coil when in start run not in accessory … does that seem right to anyone? I believe fitzy said acc and rin and i would tend to believe you guys over google! I know i had downloaded an original wiring diagram but it might have been a 69, awhile back but looking to see if i can find it again. I would like to print it larger than I originally had. Cause my eyes are old!

Appreciate all ideas!!! Thanks so much!!!

I actually have no issue with running the jumper wire on the switch as that is how you would do it on an old chev as per the book. Since that wire is not causing the issues that I am having with the constant power to radio and heater blower. I was hoping that cutting the jumper would fix the radio/blower issue but that is not it. I kinda doubted it was since the wipers work correctly and all of those things should be fed from the brown accessories wire on the switch…

Disconnected the jumper wire still have radio and blower, so jumper wire is not the issue there! There is power at the coil with key on, turn key to start no power at the coil.

It would crank but not fire…

Wires in the switch are correct. Radio wire used 941 as I don’t want it to have power when off, 940 is to run the clock. ( put in new Dakota digital so not required… Blower motor runs without the key on. So it has constant power … wiper switch only runs when the key is on ( as it should)

Second from the bottom, indicates the bypass wire, if needed, will connect to the I or R post if needed. What indicates if it is required??

Hi wrong way I purchased the 10414, 25 circuit key in Dash originally thought my switch was bad so I ordered a new 1, 2 in fact all give exactly the same results. So I assume they are actually working correctly. They also sell a generic ignition switch part 80153 which I am including a picture of

The harness was completely chopped so it was completely removed and replaced ) it was all random red wire) I have only 2 wires running to my starter. The purple solenoid wire and the power red wire. I’m no mechanic or wiring specialist. This is where I am in my reading of the book today. Jacked up the car and checked only 2 wires running to it from what I can see. I know I read there should be wires on the I and R but that is as far as k have gotten with it today …. I find it quite strange that the radio and the blower motor work with no key and the wiper switch does not ( I know none of them should) I also verified that I hooked up the correct wire to the radio ( as there are 2 to choose from) one constant one key on

I should also add that the wipers work as they should. They only have power when the key is on accessory Hey took me a bit to get back to it! That is a factory plug. It is a painless harness. I am here by going to admit that I signed up for this under my husbands name. As he is not tech savvy and my name is Cathy! I have spent the better part of today trying to read the painless book ) I’m probably no better off for it) couple things I can tell you I discovered. ( trying to hook up the blower motor /factory ac. My blower will run with no key as well as my radio. The pink wire in the book says it should be to thecoil fuse.

Hey took me a bit to get back to it! That is a factory plug. It is a painless harness. I am her by going to admit that I signed up for this under my husbands name. As he is not tech savvy and my name is Cathy! I have spent the better part of today trying to read the painless book ) I’m probably no better off for it) couple things I can tell you I discovered. ( trying to hook up the blower motor /factory ac. My blower will run with no key as well as my radio. The pink wire in the book says it should be to the coil fuse.

I think I tried that…. I think I tried it all 😂

Hey so having an issue. I am installing a painless ( not so painless harness) rebuilt engine and transmission. Electric carb. When hooking up my wires as per instructions car cranks but will not start. Ran a jumper wire from ign 1 to ign 2 car starts and runs as it should. However I now have constant power to my radio… and blower motor does not work as it should… by running that jumper wire is that what is causing the radio to always have power could this be also causing blower motor issues…. Could I cause other problems by running it this way??