rheckman

For what  it's worth here is the new bar fits good,I don't know what or where the other bar came from but it had some radical bends in it

Thanks to all who replied,

Bob H

Cool,thanks.

I have a new bar coming today,as I also have no idea if the one thats on there is right.

Im going to find out.

Thx

Picture cropped on me,but here is view looking at drivers side you. Can just see bushing to frame in upper left corner.

I don't believe it's upside down.

According to the 1970 Pontiac manual ,but who knows.

I replaced with new bushings. On the ground everything should seat correctly.if the new bar sets up the same i will make frame spacers,maybe .37 -.50 thick.

Thanks

The car is on the ground, I'm just getting into this car and I'm finding things of course.

The spring spacing would account for some extra height causing some of the gap but not much.

And I'm not sure why they are there,i will have to pull apart to look at.

I didn't do the front end work,front seems ok,but the bar and links were loose and spaced more than these.

I ordered a new bar from Summit,then i can compare.

I could make spacer plates to put between frame and bushing brackets,that would bring the angle down some...

Here is the endlink.

Note the angle of the bar as it attaches to the top of the endlink,leaves a gap at the top.

It was worse,this pic is after i loosened bushing to frame bolts and let the bar hang down a bit.

When I removed the previous links they were loose and had an even larger gap at the top of endlink.

As i bought this just this past August i don't have anyway of knowing if the bar is the right bar or not.

Not sure why they had smaller spacers on endlinks either.

Thx

I will, 

Thx

Hey all, 

Wondering if anyone has come across tight fitting angle where sway bar endlinks are concerned.

The top of the sway bar is tilted downward ,the usually are but I'm out of room for the links.

The links i took off had the spacers cut i think,they are definitely shorter.

About a 1/4 inch.

Sway bar is 1.12 dia,on 1970 gto ram air

Thanks

Bob H

Perfect,

Thanks for all your invaluable help

Reg's

Bob H,

Yes,

I guess running on full vac is ok,not sure how to do base timing,suppose i could do total timing.

Maybe 40 total at about 3000 rpm not sure as i have been bouncing back and forth with Tcs or not to Tcs.

Thanks,

Bob H

I think so too,but idle goes way up if I bypass TCS and go direct to constant vac port.

Normal???

Thanks,

Its making more sense.

I was struggling with idle and fuel air mix as I just rebuilt the carb,and I think alot of it was due to vac advance running straight into constant vaccum source.

I also just did pertronix and new distributor,so im timing as well all at the same time.

Trying to get everything in sync is a challenge,found out the hard way the dizzy runs ccw on Pontiac 🤨

They dont do emissions on classics here in Mass believe it or not.

But on this model carb there  is only constant manifold vac at the back of this quadrajet at the bottom.

So vac advance would be all the time?

Thanks,

Bob

Thanks,

Its what I thought, vac source from carb to solenoid then from solenoid to advance on dizzy.

Because of the set up does it mean that advance is only active in 4th gear only as its triggered by switch from trans?

At least thats what I have read.

Bob h

Hi,

Wondering if anybody has come across an issue with Quadrajet on 1970 GTO Ram Air?

This carb has no ported vacuum port,only manifold at back of carb.So this would mean if I hook up vac advance from Dizzy it would be vac all the time.

It raises idle,and Im having a hard time getting idle down as it is.

This car also has a TCS solenoid which is where I believe the Vac advance is supposed to be run through,into solenoid from carb then back to dizzy.

Alot of people say that you should run manifold vac and shut down the TCS.

Any thoughts??

Thanks,

Bob H

Hi,new to this forum and wonder if anyone can answer a question.

I recently acquired a 1970 gto ram air 4 speed with no backup light switch on lower column.

 I just got the switch,plugged it in and it works,problem is there are no mounting screws from before.

The grommets',item 30 from blowup in service manual seem to be there.

But what kind of screws,I believe these inserts,are plastic?

So maybe a sheet metal screw..size..

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Bob