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Engine rebuild.


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So, as some of you may know, I took my Farmall apart. The tractor guys said I should so a in tractor engine rebuild. New rings, rod and main inserts, and lap the valves. Okay, so I have no idea what anything is. Does anybody have any advice or anything to tell me? I need guidance, this is my first ever engine project and I don't know where start, and I don't know procedures or anything. I know this is a tractor and not a car, but an engine is an engine and I know any advice is good.



Also, the tractor guys aren't as fun to talk to about these things.


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Stay clean and stay organized. Paper towels are your friends and so are toe tags and ziploc bags. Take photos of the tear down so that going back together you can follow it. Also if you can get a service manual. Get the heads professionally done and assembled and use a good assembly lube. Any torque to yield bolts throw them out and get new ones.


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Stay clean and stay organized. Paper towels are your friends and so are toe tags and ziploc bags. Take photos of the tear down so that going back together you can follow it. Also if you can get a service manual. Get the heads professionally done and assembled and use a good assembly lube. Any torque to yield bolts throw them out and get new ones.

Torque to yield bolts? Like the headbolts?

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Usually torque to yield bolts they torque them down based on stretch not on force. Assembly manuals usually can tell you this. More then likely you will be fine for a tractor motor but my flywheel on the vibe were torque to yield and I had to pitch them.


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.Is there anyone in your area,machine shop wise that can do your motor in house?Somethings are best left to the pro's.I don't doubt your skill's but even a tractor,the clearances have to be exact, straight and true.,


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So I've done some looking around and I've decided that I only need to do a top end job. That means cylinder head. The sleeve walls are in good condition and I've never had a power issue, it also doesn't smoke meaning the rings are good.



So, I need to remove the valves and clean the whole head, like shiny new. Its cast-iron. Any suggestions? Some sort of bath? I've heard brake cleaner works. Ideas, suggestions, tips? I don't have the tools for professional cleaning or the money lol, but I do have time. I've heard soaking and scrubbing is a good method, just takes time.


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Torque to yield bolts? Like the headbolts?

Given the age of the Farmall, I rather doubt that torque to yield bolts were used back when it was built.

Stay organized. Keep all the parts of each cylnder bagged and tagged.

If you can't take the head to a pro, and you insist on cleaning it yourself, you have several options. I have heard of using brake cleaner. Oven cleaner, lacquer thinner, "Gunk", and kerosene and a brush will also work to loosen dirt and grime. Just be prepared to re-paint the head or the entire engine. Be sure to properly pre-oil all areas around moving parts. I would also pay attention to all coolant and oil return areas.

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I took the valves off, guide in the number 4 valve was really stiff. I had to tap it out. Definitely scratched the guide. Guy I'm taking it to said he has a refurbished head already assembled. I'm curious if I can work out a reduced cost and trade deal. I mean, why would be bring it up if he wasn't looking to do something with it. If not, hopefully we can figure out a plan for mine.


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