Havoc's '48 Farmall "Progression"

[havoc1482]

Well thats new...

F*cking updraft carburetors...

[Frosty]

Touch Control is acting up. Checked with the other Farmall guys and apparently this hole in the filler cap shouldn't exist. Someone drilled it for whatever reason and now the system isn't closed.

Damn thing has been pissing hydraulic fluid all over the garage, INCLUDING MY PHOENIX!

Most hydraulic systems have some sort of vent in them to allow the hydraulic fluid to move up and down in the oil tank as it comes in and out of the hydraulic cylinders. I am not certain if the Farmall system was designed this way, but it would make sense. If the system is closed, too much hydraulic pressure can cause a seal or pressure leak somewhere in the system (the weakest point). That being said, I would expect to see some sort of vented filler cap that would prevent the oil from actually spilling onto the ground but allow air in and out at a preset PSI level - much like the way a radiator cap works. I think someone took the easy/lazy/cheap way out here because the system was leaking on them and drilling the hole stopped it.

What does the Farmall group say is correct for your tractor? Is a vented filler cap available?

[havoc1482]

The Farmall guys said that there is no vented filler cap for the TC. Its a closed system with an internal blow-by valve to prevent over-pressurization. This just routes the fluid directly back into the reservoir. I think my problem isn't a faulty pressure release, but a seal on one of the work cylinders between low and high pressure sections of the unit. Causing a loss in pressure in the work section. It explains why the plow comes back up when I give it some throttle or play with either control levers.

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[Frosty]

Makes sense to me. Do you know which seals or cylinders need repair or replacing?

Just one more question though. Do you know where your internal blow-by-valve is and is there a way to test it (easily) according to the Farmall guys? The reason I ask is if this valve isn't working correctly and the system builds too much pressure, the system will cause a leak again (somewhere). I suspect this lead to someone drilling the hole in the filler cap in the first place to relieve the pressure. So if you replace or repair the hole in the filler cap and repair the cylinders and/or seals, you could be right back at square one and back to a leaky system. The blow-by valve is your only control mechanism and if isn't working properly you will be spending a lot of more money on more hydraulic fluid and kitty litter to clean up the mess. I think in this case, it pays to be thorough.

[havoc1482]

I'm positive that this is the problem: numbers 23 and 21. They are the seals for the pressure regulator valve cylinder (#22) Which is (as you can see) just a simple a spring and ball type regulator valve. It all adds up in my mind. I see no external leaks, yet I experience load oscillation. Unfortunately there is no easy way to test it. I'd have to pull the unit out, which wouldn't be a problem because its held in behind the flywheel bell-housing by four bolts, but I'd have to wait for Spring. I don't want to pull the unit mid-winter, then suddenly a blizzard comes alone and I'm caught in the cold with my pants down.

I have a hunch that the cap that was on there was mistakenly put on. Its just a 3/8 cast iron pipe cap. I picked the new one up at Home Depot in the plumbing dept. I think someone bought one with the hole and didn't think twice about it. It would also explain why the system was so low on fluid. It pissed it all out until there was little left. I get where you're coming from with the over-pressurization issue, but for now I'll have to deal with it and any leaks it might cause. I'll just tear the unit in the Spring and do a full overhaul.

\

CaseIH sells TC rebuild kits. You can get everything, but the unit block itself. Its a weekend job.

So, what are your thoughts? Thinking I'm right on the spot.

[Frosty]

A quick check might be to get the correct filler cap and fill it up with hydraulic fluid. If it still leaks or oscillates under load, then you know you will have a spring rebuild on your hands for sure.

[havoc1482]

Yeah I did that. Still oscillates. It'll be fine for now until the Spring.

I have a quick question. How bright will a 12v bulb be on a 6v system? I wanna add a rotating warning light, but they're all in 12v.

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[havoc1482]

So I figured out the rotating warning light thing. Problem is, the bulb is 12 volts. So I have to find a 6 volt equivalent. Its a BA15S bulb. No stores sell them, so I have to get them online. bulbtown.com sells them.

[havoc1482]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tndyDO9S4Js

[99gagt3x00]

what no drive-by video.. sounds good though

[Ringo64]

Nice! Sounds good.

I like the Bruins cap too

[havoc1482]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaqXDwNt5yg

[Ringo64]

nice!

[havoc1482]

GREAT! I found a bent pushrod just sitting under the valve cover not even connected to the cam rockers!

[havoc1482]

And the jam nut on the rocker is missing, which probably means the valve had an incorrect valve clearance. Hopefully it never contacted the cylinder head

[havoc1482]

I'm gonna have to pull the cylinder head off to check for any other damage. Now I gotta go buy a torque wrench and pray to God I don't break something.

[Frosty]

Havoc - you need to find yourself another Farmall winter project vehicle - kind like this.....

[havoc1482]

So, I've finally gotten fed up with the Super A. I dropped the snow plow off the front and pulled it into the workbench bay. I'm pulling the head, replacing the pushrods, adjusting the lash, changing the oil, rebuilding the carb and more.

This project is Havoc approved

[Ringo64]

I like where this is going

[havoc1482]

Drained the coolant and gasoline. Next I gotta dump the oil. Carb and intake/exhaust manifold are off. Next is the pushrods, valves, rockers, and the whole head.

Zenith updraft carburetor, Made in the USA! This thing is no bigger than my hand and hangs off the side of the tractor from the manifold. Thinking of giving it some TLC, but the cylinder head and valve train is my main concern with this tractor

I did all of this in less than an hour. The head will probably take me an hour. I love the simplicity of these tractors

[havoc1482]

So now that I've gotten it this far, I don't know what to do lol. Okay, so I need to replace all of the pushrods. Clearly one of the valves isn't adjusted correctly because cylinder #2 looks cooked (more black) compared the rest. Does anybody have any advice for cleaning the cylinder head?

Also, does anyone remember my rant about one of the rockers missing the lash adjustment jam nut? Well guess what, I found it sitting on the bottom of the head after I took it off. haha

[havoc1482]

So, guess what I did today!!!

I got a refurbished cylinder head for $150! I brought my old one down to a guy in CT and we took a look at it and he said I would have needed about $200 worth of work done to it. He then went to his shelf and brought over this head that was already machined with new valve seats installed and ready to mount and said you can have it for $150. OH HELL YES! He had an extra C113 engine head lying around from when he restored an International A1, it had no motor and he bought 3 junk motors to make a new engine and has plenty of spare parts he was looking to get rid of. He also gave me some gaskets.

I gave him my old head, valves and all. So we traded and I basically got out of having to bring it to a shop myself.

[Ringo64]

Sounds like hopefully a great deal! Love talking with people on forums

[havoc1482]

Sounds like hopefully a great deal! Love talking with people on forums

FP meet. Me you Chaos, Notallthere Frosty, Justa, everyone we can haha

[Ringo64]

FP meet. Me you Chaos, Notallthere Frosty, Justa, everyone we can haha

I'm down! If its in Florida, I'll buy the first round!