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Havoc's '48 Farmall "Progression"


havoc1482

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Shes hiding under a cover in the driveway waiting for me to find the rear shocks i misplaced lol

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It never ends does it? hahah. So I never tested it in reverse and today I did and the reverse idler gear is noisy as a son of a bitch! Luckily that gear can be removed without having to take it all apart again. I just have to drain the gear oil, remove the rear PTO and tap the bushing out. I'm trying to get a hold of this guy that is parting out a old Farmall B, tons of interchangable parts for my A. Maybe I can snag the old idler. Or maybe I just need a new bushing. I guess I could live without going in reverse for a while right? haha


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Yes and no. Runs great. Transmission is a little quieter, but the damaged oiler gear makes a *tap tap tap* noise. Not a problem though, she'll run 100%. New bearings and repaired shift guide are a big improvement. Before it was a plethora of noise, now its just the moderate tap of the oiler.

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It never ends does it? hahah. So I never tested it in reverse and today I did and the reverse idler gear is noisy as a son of a bitch! Luckily that gear can be removed without having to take it all apart again. I just have to drain the gear oil, remove the rear PTO and tap the bushing out. I'm trying to get a hold of this guy that is parting out a old Farmall B, tons of interchangable parts for my A. Maybe I can snag the old idler. Or maybe I just need a new bushing. I guess I could live without going in reverse for a while right? haha

If you get the Farmall B, perhaps you can use the oiler gear too?

Shes hiding under a cover in the driveway waiting for me to find the rear shocks i misplaced lol

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I understand why she is hiding from you. She's ashamed. She can't go out in public without her shocks on. Tsk. Tsk. Tsk.

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Frosty, those X-body's like mine had 15s stock wheels right? I still believe that part of my clearance issue is the 14s that are on it. I should save up for a new set.

And yeah the oiler could be taken too. The A, B, BN, C and Super C has the same transmission internals. C and Super C have a different differential though.

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14s were the stock base wheel and 15s were the optional wheel across the line. I don't think its the 14' rim in of it itself that is the problem.



What is your clearance issue? Is the tire too tall or is the wheel back spacing incorrect pushing the tire close to the fender lip?



If memory serves, the X-body cars came with either a 14x6 or a 14x7 sized wheel, ditto in the 15 in configuration. So if your wheels are wider than 7 inches, that might be the problem. The Rally IIs you have don't have the correct back spacing for your car. Tire sizes were general small, ER78x14 or FR78x14, about the equivalent of a P195/75R14 or P205/75R14 (respectively) in today's metric sizes.


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  • 4 weeks later...

I'd have to check. It could be that those airshocks I have back there lost their pressure and sagged the rear. I wonder If I can find the hose and pump em back up to see what happens.


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I just measured the rim and tire width. Looks like 15x8? 


 


I found these local. I might buy them because two of my current once leak around the bead, and they aren't Pontiac. Would these be a correct fit for the Phoenix? Rally II 15x7s  https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/5020516816.html


 


I also found a set of 14x7s for sale http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4999807732.html


 


What do you think?


 


Also, I have another question. Whats a good strategy to remove some of the rust around the wheel wells and stop it until someday I can get the car painted or something? Its causing the paint to bubble and I want to stop it cold before it eats too much. I was thinking I take the chrome trim off and sand\brush it down and throw some preventive primer and some cheap paint to keep it from getting worse?


 


I don't care about ruining the look (taking paint off and what not) if thats what it takes to stop deterioration of the body. Id rather be proactive so I can work in it small steps at a time.


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  • 1 month later...

So what do we have here Havoc? The Farmall B? A new project tractor? Or spare parts for the Super A? I am kinda worried when I see a rust hole through the rim/hub. That tells me that sucker has been sitting for quite awhile.


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Parts. You're looking at parts. The rims are getting tossed. Im taking the good gears out of that transmission to put in mine. The engine is for my boss. Hes got a BN with a cracked block

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Those rims look like if you touch them they will disintegrate 

Basically  :lol2:

They came with the package. $250 bucks for the entire rear end of a Farmall A. Still in great shape actually, The oil in the final drives and the transmission is still clean, no signs of water. That means all the internals are preserved. The iron itself is still good, and the transmission case and final drives will fetch a pretty penny themselves because they will fit an A, Super A, B and BN. Cast iron like that can take the elements for quite sometime, thats why most of these tractors are are still running

 

I basically plan on getting what I can out of them for parts, giving them a little touch up in the paint department and flipping them, to either make some money, break even, or hell, I'd settle for anything to bring the overall cost down.

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Sounds like a sold plan.


 


How much you selling the block to your boss for? A good core should be worth $100-150 easy to you and him.


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He gave me $250 for the cam crank block head and flywheel. Thats what I paid for them. Gave him an even trade

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  • 1 month later...

Transmission is apart. I feel like I'm too late in the year to do another transmission tear down. I will replace the shifter rail bracket from my current transmission so at least I will have a original bracket instead of the bush league repair. 


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  • 2 months later...

Shes finally ready for winter lol. I went absolutely INSANE trying to fix the hydraulic pump. I refused to admin defeat, but it just kept leaking all of the fluid into the crankcase through the timing gears. I went on Ebay, threw a hail mary at a $150 salvaged pump from later model tractor and scored the touchdown. 

"New" on the left. Old on the right. Notice the diameter of the outlet (top hole) is different. That would be (going with my football theme here) the extra point kick. Since the new one it from a later model it has a higher flow and pressure so the hydraulics respond quicker and with more power. IH did this because they realized the pressure tolerance of the "Touch Control" hydraulic block was way higher than these pumps could put out (good old days of American overengineering), so to increase power in later models they simply bored it out a little. 

12316233_10206432325781590_463518093762712316526_10206428806813618_7535813623990

 

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  • 11 months later...

Hamilton Ontario: home of Tim Horton's Field, and sister city to Flint, Michigan. Been there, done that, the kid pitched in the CANUSA games there last year (in 2015).

Please it's not a box from Canada....it's a Canuckistani coffer!

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