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Grand Prix Tune Up Labour Time??


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Does anyone know how long it'll take to change the plugs and wires on a 2000 Grand Prix GTP?? Just looking for the labour time. Another forum had it at 1.5 hours.

Any advice guys? Trying to see if my mechanic is trying to make some quick cash...

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Finally someone else who spells labour right.

1.5 hours is probably right for that motor. The rear plugs are a pain to get to.

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Do it yourself. its not very hard.

This. Save yourself the $150 you may get charged and do it yourself. If you even need to buy tools, you'll be spending at most $50 for a decent ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket and swivel joint for the ratchet.

Added: GM motors are extremely fickle with what spark plugs go in them. Use only AC Delco or NGK plugs. I honestly forget what's best for a stock L67 engine, but whatever it needs in stock trim, use it. Gap the plugs according to spec and use anti-seize on the plug's threads to prevent them from getting cross threaded into the heads.

Furthermore, one step I recommend even before doing the plugs is to seafoam the engine.

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This is straight from Seafoam's website:

To clean deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the deposits.

To remove deposits more quickly, Sea Foam can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. Since Sea Foam contains Volital Organic Compounds make sure this method is approved by the state in which your planning to use it. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site).

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve deposits. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized deposits to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT SEA FOAM TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.

Performing a Sea Foam Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine:

4cycle_project4_1.jpg

Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.

4cycle_project4_2.jpg

Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.

4cycle_project4_3.jpg

Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 2 to 5 miles or until the white smoke is no longer being produced. REPEAT SEA FOAM TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.

Source:
/>http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html

In addition to this, you can also keep the car in park and keep the RPMs around 2000-2500 and let the seafoam burn off that way, but it'll take longer and you'll have the infamous smoke show. :lol: that's what I do for ten minutes THEN drive for five miles to burn off the excess.

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' timestamp='1354456193' post='77053']

This. Save yourself the $150 you may get charged and do it yourself. If you even need to buy tools, you'll be spending at most $50 for a decent ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket and swivel joint for the ratchet.

Added: GM motors are extremely fickle with what spark plugs go in them. Use only AC Delco or NGK plugs. I honestly forget what's best for a stock L67 engine, but whatever it needs in stock trim, use it. Gap the plugs according to spec and use anti-seize on the plug's threads to prevent them from getting cross threaded into the heads.

Agreed.... Tools, Chilton manuel for the car. Still less than having it done. I might add that on your spark plugs. Always hand start your plugs to avoid crossthreading. Use the socket N extension, then add the ratchet to final tighten. U CAN DO IT!

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Iv done my plugs and it took me a hour tops. to get tot he rear unbolt the dogbones and rock the engine forward and put the parking brake on. also i just noticed your from toronto . im from niagara. have you heard of oqcgp?

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seafoam is just kerosene in a can thats a little bit "concentrated" the BG really works I have used everything before and BG is the only thing i feel a difference with

I when I seafoamed the Phoenix I noticed a positive difference in the feel. Also speaking of SeaFoam, has anyone ever used TransTune? I put that in the Phoenix and also noticed a positive difference.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2

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When ya bleed on your motor from busted knuckles,its like an extra 5HP... :dancingpontiac:

Automotive scars are like tatoo's.....Only they have better stories!!!!

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