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Frosty's Airbrush Art Work


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  • Founders

Ringo, didnt they teach drawing?

Who, who is this "they"? I never done some stinkin art school :lol:

You forget I'm a programmer who learned to do graphic art so I didn't have to pay a stinkin' web designer :lol:

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did you want some done too i like to work with people on the forums especially when they have talent like frosty

no, no flames or fire for me. and i think many of us would like to work with each other (even if they dont pay us, RINGO) to help each other out.

Who, who is this "they"? I never done some stinkin art school :lol:

You forget I'm a programmer who learned to do graphic art so I didn't have to pay a stinkin' web designer :lol:

:rolleyes: programmers. so no drawing even in pre-k?

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:rolleyes: programmers. so no drawing even in pre-k?

Pre-k was more coloring inside the lines, I could do that :lol: Wait forgot I can draw a car that looks bad, stick figures, and a 3d box but after that I'm SOL.

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they're just plastic trim pieces

cicitrimpassenger.jpg

cicitrim-1.jpg

pontiacshiftplate.jpg

its the piece's that i already painted red but i'd like to keep a pontiac logo on there somehow and yes i would like the true fire like the valve cover

I like the red trim. You did that yourself? What color of red and type of paint is it? I assume the scratches around the Pontiac arrowhead are due to using that area as a cup holder or you put your cell phone there?

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i think its candy apple metallic i will check later its a gm perfect match from duplicolor. i did it myself its not the greatest i have a thumb print on the minus sign and the driver door has a bad area that i covered with a g6 and the shift knob is really rough from all the use but the passenger door is flawless lol. and weirdly the area around the pontiac dart isn't scratched its just a trick of the light you can sort of see the thumb print on the minus sign of the tapshift

DSCN4963.jpg

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here's some other shots of the trim

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The color code will be key if I need to match it and repair it before I apply the true flames.

Also which way do you want the flames running ?

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If you want a black base coat with red/orange/yellow/white true flames, then no I won't need it. I have all that paint. If the base coat is to be the red metallic, then I would the factory paint code at a minimum. Crossing paint types (lacquer vs enamel) can lead to paint cracking. You can cover lacquer with enamel, but you can not cover enamel with lacquer. Much of the House of Kolor paints I have are lacquer based. Duplicolor tends to be enamel. It should state what it is on the can.

To make sure you and I are on the same page, then you want the true fire to start closest to the dash and licks trail towards the back seat?

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The paint code is what will be important. You have to use an airbrush to generate true flames. Paint out of can is not a fine enough spray tip or pattern to be effective (my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS has two different tips - a .50 and .35 mm spray patterns). So I will have to color match the paint code in lacquer based paints to be able to use all the other base color, kandy and pearl paints that I have.

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I got around to taking some more pictures of my class art work. The eagle and spider was when we were still doing just black and white to work on shading and ddimension.

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Rips and tears (and a Von Dutch flying eyeball)

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You will recognize this next one ! It's based on the hood decal and font for my '86 of course.

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The next two are part of a sign I made for my wife for Relay for Life. First one is a '34 Ford and '40 Chevy. The second is a '69 GTO.

100_2136.jpg

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Thanks. As far as the Indian Head, I need to get another one the same size and do up a female indian maiden. I have some art that I like off the Internet. I just to get off my ass and order it.

BTW - I started painting the Pontiac valve covers tonight. I sprayed them with a self-etching primer since traditional lacquer based primer won't stick to aluminuim. SO I had spend another $50 for a quart of self-etching and a can of activater/reducer. It turns an interest shade of green when you mix the two together. It drys in about 30 miunutes.

Monday night I will finish primering and then I hope to shoot the blue metal flake.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are the self-etching primer painted Pontiac valve covers. In hindsight, I should have also used some slick sand over the top of the primer, it would have filled the gaps of the rough aluminuim. I have to use self-etching primer because normal primer will eventually lift off of aluminuim. Due to my desire to fill in the roughness, I very, very lightly sanded this.

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Now here is the same set of valve covers painted in the same blue metallic paint as my Lemans. It has been cleared out at this point too. The added layers of paint and two layers of clear have really helped fill in the roughness. I might lightly sand them and then throw one last layer of clear on it. The arrowhead is definitely getting painted red.

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Now here is the ongoing class project. We started out with used, I would even venture to say "nasty" looking bowling pins. There were gashes, divits, and missing paint, especially at the narrowest point and at the top. So we sanded the entire pin down with 80 grit sand paper and got rid of every shiny spot on the pin. This gave the pin "tooth" to allow bondo and primer to adhere to it. We applied three layers of thin (I do mean thin) of bondo to fill in the major stiff. We have cross sanded it with 180 and then 320 grit. Next has come three layers of primer, with sanding with 600 grit in between coats. So we've got it looking clean now.

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This has been followed up with 3 layers of black and three layers of clear coat. Now we are at the point of applying our each individual designs to the pin. One person has already applied to some true flames. One person has painted an pool 8-ball logo on his.

I wonder what Frosty's will be.

Only time will tell......here I will give you a hint.

100_2397.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I love the work you did on the bowling pin. The extra progress you have made is even better.

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