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Havoc's Questions Post.


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Removing and replacing the trunk cylinder is not difficult. You are basically correct in your assessment of what needs to be done. The hardest thing might be getting the right size wrench or screwdriver to disassemble and reassemble it. Take your time and take pictures along the way, you will do fine.




Notallthere has a good suggestion by taking it to a dealer. That's fine and it will work. However, I hate paying dealership prices on certain things. So my alternative is to call a couple of reputable locksmiths in your area and get some estimates from them.Tell them you have a trunk problem. They might be able to fix the old one. At a minimuim, they should stock automotive tumblers. They may need to now what your key letters are (your trunk and ignition keys should have a small letter on it between the key head and the key - for the Lemans it is A & B for me). They should be able to replace the one key tumbler for the trunk, match it to your key and perhaps even replace it on the car for some modest fee. Or perhaps you save a few bucks and remove and install it yourself. Let them replace the tumbler and key match it for you.




Part of my concern with buying a new lock from Classic (or any other part OEM/OER supplier) is you will now have another (a 3rd) key for your car just for that particular lock. By going to the dealer or locksmith, you will be able to maintain your 2 key system for the car.




What is wrong with the glove box lock? It does not lock or shut very well? If it not latching well, it might be a simple as the latching bar is now too far away from the lock catch. So you might need to adjust it. If it is not latching at all and it is hitting the latch bar properly, try some WD-40 on the locking mechanism. It could be sticking internally after 30+ years.



Just out of curiosity, have you tried to WD-40 the hell out of both the trunk lock (stick the straw into the lock itself) and lock mechanism to see if that frees it up?


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It flops around haha, it doesn't always shut. To be honest, I have no problem having a 3rd trunk key simply because It won't inconvenience me too much considering I barely ever go into the trunk. I'm gonna remove the lock and take a look at it and see if a locksmith can fix it, and if not, I'll go for alternatives.



And no I didn't try WD-40 in the lock. I used that graphite lock lube stuff.


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When you get a chance this weekend take a quick video of the glove box for me. Show me the latch bar and the lock. I suspect the latch bar is grabbing the latch incorrectly. You could talk to you locksmith about that too BTW.


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Oh my god this was funny to watch! How the hell did the dog get in the boat!?!?

Now I understand what is going on. Take your trunk lock to a locksmitch. I think the tumbler might be seized up. He should be able to free it up or replace it.

The glove box is another story. The problem is the lock nut holding the lock assembly has come loose, thus allowing the entire lock assembly to flop around within the glove box door like a dying carp. The lock nut is underneath the chrome key bezel. The You Tube video below shows you what you have to do to remove the bezel and tumbler assembly, so you can get access to the odd octagon nut. You need to tighten this nut up to firm up the lock in the glove box door and then re-install the tumbler and bezel. You will have to come up with a way to tighten this nut since GM discontinued this speciality tool a long time ago. The video suggests modifying an old chisel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUxMxlky_Cw

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the trunk cylinder out. Had to drill the rivets off the cap and pull it out. I don't know how rivet it back in tho :(



The trunk can finally close and I'm going to replace the lock. I'm going to get the trunk lock and two door ones that way I can replace the trunk and have spares in case I want to get rid of the 3rd key or replace the front ones.



Also the glove box is missing a clip that keeps the lock tight. My second father/mechanic/ex-gfs dad took a look at it today. I actually know what clip hes talking about but I lost it haha




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And Frosty... I don't have a dog! It was my cat!


177579_3644584387870_1655622803_o.jpg


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Replace the lock and then put the cap on with some machine screws that have a tapered head on it with Nylock nuts on the back. Make sure that they work and add a little JB weld to the head of the screws to ensure that no one take the cap on you.



Before you put the cap on put a little silcone around the edges to seal it to the body of the car. It will help prevent rusting in the future.


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Right front caliper siezed.



Right front brake hose swollen shut.



Replace both and you might be out 40.00. Pull the right front tire off. Pull the caliper off and get someone to slowly pump the brakes once. If the piston does not move then there is your problem. Those calipers are dirt cheap as GM used them for 35 years on cars.


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So I've been thinking about replacing the headlights in the Grand Prix. They are stock and one is oxidized to a point where I can't buff it out and its borderline inspection fail.



Any suggestions?



Stock? Aftermarket?



I want something easy to install and if that means stock then so be it.



467850_10200437504714810_1479679695_o.jp

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I'm thinking this:


http://www.carid.com/2007-pontiac-grand-prix-headlights/option-r-replacement-headlight-assembly-10306737.html


Comments?



Remember, I might be selling this car in the near future


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This looks like a sensible option if you ask me. However, it looks like the price is just for one side only. If you think you're going to sell the car, then you definitely don't want to spend a ton of money on this sort of thing.



Can you get a better stock headlight out of a local bone yard? If not, stick with these.


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And Frosty... I don't have a dog! It was my cat!

177579_3644584387870_1655622803_o.jpg

It's a good thing since I have no idea how the hell a small dog would have gotten in the damn boat in the first place since you clearly didn't put him there! BTW - A friend of mine had a dog named Snickers too.

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Right front caliper siezed.

Right front brake hose swollen shut.

Replace both and you might be out 40.00. Pull the right front tire off. Pull the caliper off and get someone to slowly pump the brakes once. If the piston does not move then there is your problem. Those calipers are dirt cheap as GM used them for 35 years on cars.

So I didn't take the caliper off because I couldn't find my jar of hex keys. I took the wheel off and had my brother pump the brake anyways and I didn't see any movement in the caliper and I could still free turn the disk.

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F*ck this. Shes literally scaring me. I was going down my driveway and there was a chipmunk so I braked hard and the car jerked sharp to the left. Like the steering wheel wrestled free of my hands. I'm just gonna bring it to the shop.


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Seized caliper probably.



Havoc I finally took your advice and went to a Five Guys Burger.




Damn good stuff.


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There is a 5 Guys in Greektown in downtown Detroit, right off of the People Mover station, just across the street, near the casino. I went there last year for dinner during the Detroit Autorama.


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F*ck this. Shes literally scaring me. I was going down my driveway and there was a chipmunk so I braked hard and the car jerked sharp to the left. Like the steering wheel wrestled free of my hands. I'm just gonna bring it to the shop.

So what did the shop say the problem was?

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