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Havoc's Questions Post.


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Welp, Its the summer so I don't need heat. I have no compressor for AC anyways. I don't have cruise control. And I don't care about emissions. OKay so the brake booster is the thingy that is above the steering column right? It looks like a flat circle with a rectangular box coming out of it? Now PCV? Like Positive Crankcase Ventilation? Isn't that the little do-hickey that it poking out of the valve cover on the driver side? That has a vacuum line that runs to it? I'm sure I could fine the one going to the distributor, but how do I find the transmission one? Should I just follow the vacuum lines that go below?

Runs off the back of the motor N down the pass/side of the tranny. PCV should be in the intake. Valve cover breather goes to the air cleaner.

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I know that you are running a qjet so this maybe slightly incorrect.

PVC on mine runs from the drivers side valve cover to the front of the carb.

Trans is connected from the manifold behind the carb to a can like looking thing on the passenger side of the transmission. (I cannot remember what the part is)

Distributor connects from the front of the carb to the distributor.

The brake booster connects from the back of the carb to the booster which is over top of the steering column.

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I know that you are running a qjet so this maybe slightly incorrect.

Wait, who is running a q jet? I have a Rochester 2GC or maybe a 2G? Well the only difference is the choke is automatic so whatever.

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Sorry I though you were running a quadrajet. (4 barrel carb) not a two barrel.

Vacuum modulator is the part for the transmission.

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Okay so I've stared my list and the first thing was the passenger side wheel well liner. I;ve already done the driver side. Its a simple project, should take only about an hour or two. But, seriously this is frustrating. The damage is so bad on one of the body bolt/j-clip that the bolt is fused with the j-clip. and the j-clip broke so it keeps spinning. There is no way to save this bolt and I can easily replace the j-clip and bolt, but I don't have the proper tools to cut it.

The only solution I see is to break the head of the bolt off and push it up, but the bolt is still strong enough that doing such a task is retarded.

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At this point, I'm just going to do some rust removal and repair. The liner isn't rusty I just needs some love. I'm going to leave it in there for now and like I said do some clean up. I know for a fact I'm going to get bogged down with this one thing and never get around to anything else.

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put some wd40 on it and leave it for a couple hours. Take a socket and a screwdriver. Put the socket on the head of the bolt and the screwdriver under the shoulder of the bolt. Lightly pry up with the screwdriver to put tension on the bolt. Slowly turn the socket to back the bolt out. The screwdriver puts tension on the broken J clip and puts it in a bind. It puts just enough friction to pull the bolt out. It will take time and do not rush.

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guys i'm definatly gonna tackle the shocks this week. How would I go about jacking up the rear end for this task? I don't know here to lift the rear from lol. and I don't want to break anything. I have 1 hydraulic floor-jack and two stands

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Jack the rear of the car by the pumpkin. Put the two axle stands as close to the wheels as possible along the axle. One on each side. Lower the car onto the axle stands. Be prepared to cut the lower bolt out.

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If your freebie air shocks fit up, be sure to route the small plastic air lines away from the exhaust or from the moving suspension parts. On my Lemans, there is a small pre-drilled hole in the bumper, hidden by the license plate / gas cap, to mount the schraeder valve and "T" connection for the air shocks.

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If your freebie air shocks fit up, be sure to route the small plastic air lines away from the exhaust or from the moving suspension parts. On my Lemans, there is a small pre-drilled hole in the bumper, hidden by the license plate / gas cap, to mount the schraeder valve and "T" connection for the air shocks.

I already have air shocks in there with a line routed into the trunk. I'm all set :)

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Man putting these shocks in is gonna be another challenge. The bolts are (go figure) rusted. I was told I could use a blow torch to heat it up (not red though) then apply some oil to try and free it up? Will that work?

I was also told to try "Liquid Wrench"

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  • 4 weeks later...

Gotta love them Grade 8 bolts. I recently sold my old 455 block that I had on my engine stand since 2004. I looked at the Grade 8 bolts that I used to hold the block to the stand, not even the slightest hint of bending under the weight of several hundred pound block of iron everyday for 8 years. Good stuff Maynard !

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  • 1 month later...

I like my RPM around 400 to 600 in drive. Gives the cam a chance to make noise. Yours does not sound bad but I would check to see what number it actually is. You can get in expensive tachs that will hook right into the distributor of you car. Or one that will connect to the number one spark plug wire just for diagnosis.

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yeeah, i know about how you can connect a tach to the distributor, but i dont want to have to deal with getting it installed into the passenger compartment or something. Where would i get the diagnosis one you mentioned? Id only need to measure RPMs if im playing with the idle or doing something under the hood.

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http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html

This one is the style that I was talking about. Bonus with the multimeter.


/>http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html

I have one of these (same style not same one) that work great just paint a strip on your harmonic balancer that is white.

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Perfect in my opinion for a SBC. If you had a little more cam I would say go down by another 100 or so but that is good for your car.

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I agree with notallthere. The RPM range sounds fine to me as well. The idle sounds good. The only other thing is to check your idle with your AC on and off. Often the engine will change slightly to increase the RPMs when the AC is swtiched on. So if your engine is running at 600 rpm at idle and AC off, expect it to increase a few RPM with the AC switched on. It most cases, this should not be a problem.

Of course, if your AC compressor is still off the car, this is a mute discussion.

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I agree with notallthere. The RPM range sounds fine to me as well. The idle sounds good. The only other thing is to check your idle with your AC on and off. Often the engine will change slightly to increase the RPMs when the AC is swtiched on. So if your engine is running at 600 rpm at idle and AC off, expect it to increase a few RPM with the AC switched on. It most cases, this should not be a problem.

Of course, if your AC compressor is still off the car, this is a mute discussion.

Yeah, the AC compressor will tug on the engine a little bit. I still have it off because I haven't gotten a replacement yet. And since the weather is getting cooler I don't plan on it for a while.

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Sounds like an excuse not to pony up the money for a new AC compressor until next spring to me. Sounds like you have a girlfriend habit that needs the money more than the Phoenix does right now (thats life kiddo - it will always be that way) !!!!

You know that age old expression:

If it has tits or tires, you will eventually have trouble with it !

Well its true ! :dancingpontiac:

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Sounds like an excuse not to pony up the money for a new AC compressor until next spring to me. Sounds like you have a girlfriend habit that needs the money more than the Phoenix does right now (thats life kiddo - it will always be that way) !!!!

You know that age old expression:

If it has tits or tires, you will eventually have trouble with it !

Well its true ! :dancingpontiac:

Yep, I know. She's a bit of a hassle. At least the Phoenix will never break my heart

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