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Havoc's Questions Post.


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' timestamp='1337436731' post='72131']

Optimas are nice, you use a red top or yellow top? The yellows are deep cycles, and can be left alone for long periods of time, or have accessories run directly off it for long periods of time.

Red top Optimas, only reason being is I can find them more readily that the yellow or blue tops at my local parts store. I find a lot of them don't stock the yellow tops and I have to special order it which is pain. Typically, you need they battery NOW.

I have been impressed with the Optimas. I decided to put one in my Avalanche when the terminal separated/corroded off after 8 years in the truck (well past its prime). So only the wife's 2011 Traverse does not have an Optima in it, in our stable.

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I got an exchange. It was an Exide battery. So they put another Exide battery in.

Not bad - how long is the warranty on this battery now?

Oh, one more not so subtle reminder - now get the damn battery tender !!! A Battery Tender Jr runs around $30-40.00. The cheapest I saw it online for sale was a motorcycle accessory company called Iron Pony. Summit, Jegs, JC WHitney all sell them too.

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Hey yeah so I've noticed that I always ask small questions for get lost in my progression thread or they just clutter up a page so I thought it would be a good idea to try and put them all in one place and just keep this post updated with anything I need to know/want to ask. I'm going to use this post to mostly ask things about my car, but I also might ask general automotive questions that I want to just know. Okay so My first 2 questions are this: How are these for plug wires? http://www.summitrac...74606/?rtype=10 I noticed some cracking in the insulation of one of them and I figured I would just replace the lot of 'em. My second question is: What would cause my gauge lights and headlights to be dim. Last week I noticed that they were not as bright as they used to be, almost like there is a drop in voltage. My alternator isn't stock but I don't know how old it is too. Any thoughts?

:lol2: Take your sunglasses off!

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Red top Optimas, only reason being is I can find them more readily that the yellow or blue tops at my local parts store. I find a lot of them don't stock the yellow tops and I have to special order it which is pain. Typically, you need they battery NOW. I have been impressed with the Optimas. I decided to put one in my Avalanche when the terminal separated/corroded off after 8 years in the truck (well past its prime). So only the wife's 2011 Traverse does not have an Optima in it, in our stable.

Justa put a DIEHARD gold in the GTO 2 weeks ago. 3yr free replacemant, 875 CCA. More than ya need. 99.00 Optima's are waaay overpriced and I've heard more dislike than like from owners.

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Oh, one more not so subtle reminder - now get the damn battery tender !!! A Battery Tender Jr runs around $30-40.00. The cheapest I saw it online for sale was a motorcycle accessory company called Iron Pony. Summit, Jegs, JC WHitney all sell them too.

I'm sooooo laaaaaaazzzzyyyyy

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When mine needed a new one I got a GM ACDelco. I wanted something that would fit properly in the battery box and cover. Also as you guys know I'm a stickler for using factory parts.

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When mine needed a new one I got a GM ACDelco. I wanted something that would fit properly in the battery box and cover. Also as you guys know I'm a stickler for using factory parts. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?y1wkoh Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Factory is always a good choice. I've always used Diehard for batteries. Got that from my DAD.

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AC Delco's battery quality suffered over the newer years. When I worked at Sears, I was seeing two to three year old batteries crapping out on newer GM models. Wasn't impressed. Most Diehards last +six years or so.

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My work sells interstate batteries and they seem to be really good and have a 5 year warrantee.

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When mine needed a new one I got a GM ACDelco. I wanted something that would fit properly in the battery box and cover. Also as you guys know I'm a stickler for using factory parts.

I would tend to agree. I started my career working for AC Spark Plug division back in the early 80s, so I bought Delco Freedom batteries for the Trans Am for years. I felt I was being a loyal employee by buying GM brand replacements. I stopped being loyal when Delphi sold off the battery business as part of their bankruptcy and closed 21 of their 27 US facilities including my old AC site(s). So I buy what I want now.

I still purchased any Flint-made AC Spark Plugs for any of my cars when I am at a swap meet. AC oil filters,P24 and P25s, same thing. Any new stuff made in places unknown, no...I will purchase Fram or Purolator for the new cars. Air filters are all K&N. So unless I am going for a 100 point concurs restoration, then I won't even consider purchasing a reproduction Delco tar top battery.

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A lot of AC Delco's platinum, double platinum and iridium plus are made by NGK now. That's not a bad thing at all considering the high quality plugs NGK makes. Their plugs are the only true "universal" plugs I've used and sold. Ever manufacturer's engines have a plug that just does not mix whatsoever (GM and Bosch plugs for example) but NGK works great in every engine type. From American, Japanese, Korean, German, doesn't matter if it's a DOHC, SOHC or OHV, they're just good quality.

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I've used NGK only in my old Seadoo waverunners. I replaced them every year, even though I had fewer than 50 hours a summer of use on them. They were okay. I use a Champion plug in my lawn mower...but we digress on Havoc's post here.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay so my friend gave me a pair of shock absorbers that he never used. they are "WEIGHTLIFTERS" "Made by the makers of Gabriel"

I don't know if they will work. But hey there were free.

I will provide pics later.

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' timestamp='1339297099' post='73013']

Gabriels are meh.

Anything is better than the crap that is on there now. The leaf springs practically do all the work now.

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179520_3632435844164_1046343585_n.jpg

Oh and fuel lines are on par with today's fuels, brake lines are all braided stainless steel, and the radiator hoses are also brand new. So that just leaves the vacuum and wiper hoses.

Should I shop online? Like JC Whitney or just ask a local auto parts store?

Okay so here is the big question, What hoses do I NOT need? You know the post-OPEC shit? I've been told that some of the hoses I can just cap off because they no longer serve any real purpose. I can take picture of the engine to illustrate them if needed.

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Free is good. If they work for your ride and you need shocks - even better. Then there is always eBay and Craiglist if they don't fit.

Those look like a great pair of air shocks you've got there Havoc. I run Gabriel air shocks on the rear of the LeMans myself. When I know I am going to travel long distance and I have to pack tools, luggage, pop up tent, folding chairs, cooler, a kid or an extra in-law or two, I just air it up. When I do local cruising, I can air it down. I use to run QA-1 12-way adjustable shocks but I hated feeling every bump the suspension took not matter what I had them set to. I decided I looked a comfortable ride more than a sport feel.

What do you mean the fuel lines are on par with today's fuel? Hard lines perhaps. Rubber hose should be inspected. If they are original hose, they should be replaced since they don't tolerate today's fuel blends and help rot from the inside out (not to mention the damage from age, UV, and time have already done to them). If they have been recently replaced, then yes, you are okay.

Edited by Frosty
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No original hoses. The only thing original on there is the vacuum lines. (Well they look original, but regardless they are cracked as though they are dry rotting.)

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Those would be direct replacement for the shocks on a lot of the Chevelle, Novas, and Camaros. Decent replacement shock but not for enthusiastic driving. Free is always the best tho.

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No original hoses. The only thing original on there is the vacuum lines. (Well they look original, but regardless they are cracked as though they are dry rotting.)

Most vacuum lines come in contact with fuel vapor and would be susceptible to the same detoriating conditions as direct contact fuel lines (age, UV, dry rot, etc.). It is best to replace them as well.

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Okay so back to my question....

Okay so here is the big question, What hoses do I NOT need? You know the post-OPEC shit? I've been told that some of the hoses I can just cap off because they no longer serve any real purpose. I can take picture of the engine to illustrate them if needed.
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The absolute basic for a small block is one vacuum line to the distributor, one to the power brake booster, one to the transmission, and one from the PCV to the carb.

The rest will control, HCAC, cruise control, and emissions,

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The absolute basic for a small block is one vacuum line to the distributor, one to the power brake booster, one to the transmission, and one from the PCV to the carb.

The rest will control, HCAC, cruise control, and emissions,

Welp, Its the summer so I don't need heat. I have no compressor for AC anyways. I don't have cruise control. And I don't care about emissions.

OKay so the brake booster is the thingy that is above the steering column right? It looks like a flat circle with a rectangular box coming out of it?

Now PCV? Like Positive Crankcase Ventilation? Isn't that the little do-hickey that it poking out of the valve cover on the driver side? That has a vacuum line that runs to it?

I'm sure I could fine the one going to the distributor, but how do I find the transmission one? Should I just follow the vacuum lines that go below?

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