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95naSTA

95naSTA's Bonneville Progression

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Wow. Just, wow.

I wish I knew how to weld, so that I could do more than look at pictures of work like this happening.

What colour will the engine bay be when all is said and done? Body colour or something else?

Best Bonneville ever.

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Wow good work going! Looks great.

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Thanks guys. :D

The bay will be black onyx, same as the exterior.

I saw those magents for $5 at harbor freight and it was a no brainer. lol.

' date='Mar 14 2011, 11:41 AM' post='50459']

I doubt that. The idea of hacking away at my headlight, and leaving a big opening into the engine bay...meh, sounds like it would just lead to some sort of issue.

I'm confused by what you mean by this statement.

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I'm confused by what you mean by this statement.

That black Audi you showed, didn't that opening in the headlight lead to the intake and/or engine bay?

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Ohh. Thats what you meant.

I had to enlarge the holes behind my headlights to run the E39 projectors. I thought that's what you were talking about.

That Audi pic, yeah It would point at the filter in the bay. I know I've seen better more tasteful examples but I can't find one at the moment.

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Yeah. I mean, if you go that route...just use the grille opening. :D

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Ok. So.. ABS tuck and FWI it is.

IMG_0312.JPG

IMG_0314.JPG

With a little trimming and the OEM bracket welded in there, it will fit like it belongs.

If I can't fit my charcoal canister in there too (went above and forward of proposed abs block location) then I'll just move it to the other side.

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I got my cleaned/tested injectors back and I'm a little suprised..

They ended up being 37.7 lb/hr @ 3 Bar after cleaning. Most were 36.5 before with the exception of one being 35.4.

These are Series 1 L67 injectors p/n 280150934 rated at 28 lb/hr at 3 bar.

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Interesting...just curious, why are you bumping up the injector PSI? Higher CI? Hotter cam?

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Yeah I guess I never mentioned what I'm doing to the engine in here huh?

Low mile complete L26

ARP head studs

0.045” MLS head gaskets

7” pushrods

ATI Harmonic Balancer

Electric waterpump

Home made 33" long long tubes with true merge collectors and upswet primaries to match exhaust port angle

Heavily ported L67 TB (69mm)

S1 L67 Injectors

HV3 (shorter intake runners)

Vac pump setup.. I had this on the car before and I need to get a new pump.. might come later

Some oiling mods to the front and rear covers and oil cooler.

Abbott n/a Racing Cam

-210/220 @ .050

-.320" lobe lift on the intake, .512 with a 1.6 rocker ratio

-.320 lobe lift on the exhaust, .512 with a 1.6 rocker ratio

-112 lobe separation

Abbott Stage 3 Heads

-ARH Competition valve job

-SI Stainless valves, 1.840" intake, 1.550" exhaust

-Fully ported combustion chambers, intake, and exhaust ports

-Decks are milled and combustion chambers are C.C.ed to spec size

-All ports are flowed and tuned on the flowbench to ensure they meet

spec flow rates

-Guides cut down for high lift cams

-New valve seals

-Check for cracks

-Bronze valve guides

-Asked to mill 0.050” (which combined with the smaller HG's will yield over 10.5 static CR)

-Ti retainers With 90# springs

-I also asked for data when they flow the heads and when they C.C. the chambers. With the chamber volume I'll know what my static compression ratio will be.

I chose these heads for a few reasons..

1. The highest n/a whp record (270 whp) was achieved with these

2. The intake to exhaust flow ratio is near perfect 80-85%

3. They come with flow data and chamber volume

4. 30 years of head porting experience

5. Good reputation (more so in the 3.8 F-body crowd)

6. I've been kicking around trying to decide if I should get these for 4 years. Once I got my 09 tax return, I knew.

Flow comparison.. For a general idea not all are from the same bench.

LS1Intake.jpg

LS1exhaust.jpg

I_E_Ratio.jpg

I have pretty much all the parts, I just need to build the engine.. which won't take long.

Overall goals are to get to 240+ whp and as close to 13s as possible.

I also rebuilt my 4t60-e trans with:

-3.43 FDR (3.06 stock)

-65 pump (11 vanes instead of 9 which will help with the reving)

-Alto 2nd clutches

-Transgo shift kit (minus the TC lock up mods)

-Shimmed input and 3rd clutch packs for faster engagement

-All new solenoids, plastic thrust washers, hard parts where needed

-Stock TC with slightly higher stall

And I do all my own tuning Via TunerCATs RT and EFI Live.

The point of this is to push this dated engine about as far as I can n/a while keeping it reliable and streetable. This isn't for everyone but it's 100% what I want to do.

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And there's my answer. :dancingpontiac:

I see all motor LA1 builds hit 240-250HP range, so I'd say the L36 is plenty capable.

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Epic Bonneville is becoming more epic.

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^^ Lol.

Think of it this way. I've owned a 95 Bonnie for 8 out of the last 9 years. So, this stuff has been in the making for a min.

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woow. and :lol2: with Twenty.

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This is literally going to be Legen................wait for it..........................dary!

Can't wait!

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Good plans man. :pontiac:

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As if I weren't in enough shock and awe at how beautiful and impressive this car was, you just threw that pile of awesome at me! Jesus. I can't wait to see how she turns out. I'll be speechless I'm sure!

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Thanks for all the positive comments! It's definitely a plus when you're busting yourass on something and other people can appreciate it.

I'm on travel for work all week but I got a little further with that custom ball joint business I had planned.

I found out that the design I had proposed would end up costing hundreds and two of the places that had actually gotten back to me were not interested in making it either way.

So.. I thought about it, looked at the angles I'm working with, and realized my original part was a little overkill. I only really need a 2D part due to how close my control arms are to neutral anyway. This simplified the part drastically.. So much so that I'm only going to end up paying $35 to have the two carriers water jetted. B) I'll have to modify the end of stock control arms to clear the new balljoint, but I'm not scared.

Recap:

I drafted a carrier/adapter in CAD so that I can use a taller aftermarket chrysler front ball joint.

Why? -> My suspension geometry is crap. A taller ball joint would push the outer end of the control arm back down closer to it's original position, improving the front roll center.

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It might not look like much but I put in about another 8 hours of sanding. My fingers are raw.. But, all the bodywork is finished on the passenger side. There's just some grinding left in the headlight hole.

I started to mount the ABS unit but I ran out of gas.. CO2/Argon. It sucks. Where I go to fill the tank is only open 8-5 M-F and I work on the complete opposite side of the city.

Old:

IMG_0296.JPG

Worked:

IMG_5538.JPG

IMG_5539.JPG

IMG_5550.JPG

IMG_5551.JPG

I'm using the sections of the stock ABS mount with rubber bushings then then bolting/welding extensions to support it. The bumper and filter both fit good and there is enough room to route all the lines.

2011-03-26%2018.57.26.jpg

2011-03-26%2019.03.25.jpg

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Nice ! Glad to see updates, keep it up Mike !

Quick question; aren't you afraid rust will appear through the body filler on that shaved area ? I mean, did you seal it with anything before the kitty hair ?

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:lol: u sir have tigerblood

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Winning? Yes.

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Quick question; aren't you afraid rust will appear through the body filler on that shaved area ? I mean, did you seal it with anything before the kitty hair ?

All the metal was sanded before the kitty hair and filler were added. So, any surface rust was eliminated before hand. No water or air is really going to reach the metal before (real) priming and paint so I'm sure it'll be fine. Everything on the other side was sprayed with underbody, so that will be good too.

I just bought everything for my custom front ball joints so I have it when the waterjetted adapters come in. (Howe extended stud Chrysler screw in style ball joints, dust boots, threaded sleeves, 10* reamer)

I'll figure out a way to get that CO2/Argon tank filled this week so I can really start banging out the driver's side. I can't wait till this stage is finished.. bodywork is for the birds..

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that is one nice bonne. never stepped in here before but im glad i did. if go fast is a goal, why not do a motor swap. it sounds like a shitload of work to pray for 13's.

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That answer is in here somewhere. Go fast isn't really the goal.

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