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95naSTA's Bonneville Progression


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I'm about 6 hours into polishing the tensioner assembly. It'll probably take 15.

It's about 80% done with 220 grit, with everything taken down to 180 prior to. Still have to do 320, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and polish. The hardest part is over though.

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I'm banking on Zoop sealer working this time vs. clear powdercoat. I've had things clear powdercoated in the past and there was some spidering oxidation that happened under the clear.

Other than the tensioner, I still have an aluminum coolant elbow and SS heater core fitting. I have to strip and re-do my alt and master cylinder do to powdercoat damage. But, my thermostat housing, TB, and valve covers are done.

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Thanks!

Here's a another little something I'm working on.. I'm about 3.5 or so inches lower and my suspension geometry is kind of crappy. My roll center is slightly below the car and I believe the crappy camber curves have something to so with my axle binding up front. (since my drivetrain is already raised)

Just focusing on the front LCAs, I decided to make a carrier for an aftermarket balljoint with drop stud. I don't feel comfortable with someone cutting and rewelding my cast aluminum knuckle to make a drop spindle..

And the tie rod will most likely be flipped.

Here's version 1 of the ball joint carrier. The sleeve is this part. And it accepts a Chrysler 727 screw in style lower ball joint. Howe makes a ball joint with a drop stud for this application. The studs vary from stock Chrysler height to +.1/.2/.3/.4/.5".

I'm really pushing it with the dimensions of this design to keep the pivot point in the same vertical direction 90* to the stock ball joint face. These 727 ball joints are very robust and don't leave me with much room. So, some clearancing of the stock control arm end may be needed.. But swapping back to stock if need be will still be possible. In the end it will be a modular lower control arm end pivot point due to the swap-ability.

I still have to check to see if the 727 stud taper and diameter will work in my knuckle and if not ream it out.

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I also found out a buddy at work might be able to hook me up with someone local that does CNC.

Yes, I'm a little crazy.

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Being that low has it's risks. It's nice to see somebody really stepping forward and making a low stance WORK, rather than drive the piss out of it until it breaks, then rebuild it, only for it to break again. Instead, you're re-engineer the pieces that broke, to make sure they don't break again.

Kudos, and you aren't crazy...you love improvements. :bacon:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished up the tensioner and aussie coolant elbow. I still have to buy and apply Zoop sealer though.

Not perfect but about as far as I would like to go for a DD.

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lol thanks.

If polishing stuff took a 1/4 of the time I'd be all over doing it for other people. Until then though.. it's a labor of love.. or OCD.

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Haha. If I didn't have a garage full of crap to get done I'd be all over that. I've done a lot for just that. (wired up a silver top in an AE86, built my buddies SS log turbo setup, and swapped the VQ35 into my current i30, acura legend engine/trans)

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That's gorgeous.

My engine bay is strictly all function and no form for now. Something like this would be an incredible sight when the hood is open.

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