Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

Jack Leslie's 1957 Sedan Delivery

2024 April
of the Month

  • Rev up your passion for Pontiacs and join our vibrant community of enthusiasts!

    Whether you're a die-hard fan of classic muscle cars or you've got a soft spot for sleek modern models, you've found your home here at Forever Pontiac. Our community is dedicated to celebrating everything Pontiac, from the iconic GTO to the legendary Firebird and everything in between.

    Unlock access to expert advice, stunning photo galleries, engaging discussions, exclusive events, and more!

    Start your Pontiac journey with us today!

    Sign up now! 🏁

Recommended Posts

Tired of these Ads? Register Today!

Here are some tips I gleaned from another forum:

 

"Just finished my install of new parking brake cables for my ’67. And since I couldn’t find any detailed information online, I thought I would provide what I believe is the best way to do it. Note: This is based on hindsight, i.e., the way I wish I’d done it. Disclaimer: Your results may vary!

First, a note about the removal of the old front cable. GM put a metal flange on the cable inside the frame. And although the cable outside the frame should push through into the frame it was caked with crud. The only way I could get it to go through was to cut off the tip with a hack saw (along with the cable) and use a punch to force it through.

The only part of the new install that gave me trouble was the front section – from the PB pedal to the cable equalizer – so that’s what I will expand upon.

Here is what I recommend. Remove the rear-most bolts of the fender well. That will (maybe) give you just enough room to get your hand in between the fender well and floor board. Feed the new cable (threaded end) in through the middle/small hole in the top of the frame. As you do, feed the cable into the exit hole going from the frame to the equalizer. Once it is in place, you can work on installation of the winged fitting into the floor board.

I then threaded a piece of wire from the inside down through the hole in the floor board and tied the wire to the cable end. From there it was a back-and-forth – going inside the car and pulling and going under the car and pushing/tapping gently. I had to loop another piece of wire to the cable to pull it to driver’s side to align it to go straight into the hole. Eventually it all worked.

Hope this helps someone some day."

 

"Another thing: the spring loaded fingers at the end of the cables where they go through the backing plates can be easily compressed in order to pull the old cable out by disconnecting the cable from the brake actuator arm and sliding a 1/2" or 9/16" box end wrench over the fingers. The box end acts like a ring compressor, making removal of the cables a snap."

"A small hose clamp will work too."

"Your cable is coming out of the frame on the left side. The cable runs over the top of the cross member to what is called Parking Brake Cable Equalizer - simple little device that pulls equally on both front brake shoes. The Cable Tensioner Rod hooks to the top side of the cross member just to the right of the transmission tail shaft and the cable. Set up this way, it should not be touching the drive shaft. "

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Frosty ,  thanks for the info, just got the cable out now waiting for the new cable to arrive.  Really strange that this car has had 5 different transmissions and no one changed the original front cable, this car came from the factory with the M40 trans.

Thanks again so much

👍

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Always happy to help buddy. Let us know how it goes. Photos also help.

I'm surprised with 5 different transmissions that no one has thought to upgrade the front brakes to disc at some point in time and do away with the front parking brakes altoghether.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, that's great news 462Goat.

I was at the gas station yesterday and a young man had a Tyrol Blue '67 Tempest with a 326 in it, it had 4-wheel drum brakes. It made me think of you and what you were getting ready to do.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Frosty,  The front parking brake cable is in, it wasn't too bad to get it in but I wouldn't want to do it again. The only problem I had is with the center cable, it was too short. what I found

out was in 1967 if you had the M40 transmission the front cable was longer than that of the 350 or manual trans. the cable I had was 90" too short, so put in new front cable and ordered

the center cable to go with it (105") that was too long.  So I had one made up it was 101" and now everything is working perfect.   What transmission does your '67 have ?  And did you have any issues with your center cable.

🚗

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a '72 Lemans convertible. When I swapped from a 350TH to a 400TH I had to get a custom length rear parking brake cable made up. I was able to go to Inline Tube in Shelby Township Michigan to make me one.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.