Fitzy's GP is back!

[64 kiwi boni]

bogan like this little kiwi !   Fitzy

https://www.hauraki.co.nz/the-feed/watch-this-bogan-kiwi-kid-catch-a-rabbit-with-his-bare-hands/

Edited November 1, 2020 by 64 kiwi boni

[Fitzy]

On 10/31/2020 at 6:27 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

well for me fitzy, i have tried all sorts over the years but now i like to hide my tail pipes... just for that smooth look, 

like i did with my camaro, i popped them down behind the rear wheel facing down but finished flush with the body line.

the Hq will be the same... over the diff and facing down behind the wheel flush with the rear quarter panel.

 so when i do skids the pipes push the smoke

 the bonneville has a factory 1 pipe system, which will be changed to a twin and i am thinking along the same path, shes got such a nice rear bumper, i dont want pipes showing there at all

Yeah, right. I like advertising to the world that I have 2 functioning pipes. Once upon a time, your V8 was the only engine type to earn the privilege of a twin exhaust - now, every 3 cylinder hybrid shopping trolley comes with twin pipes. My GP has a factory twin exhaust and like your Bonnie, they curl down at the end just short of the bumper. It caused me some angst but as you may recall, I cut two neat apertures for my impending new twin exhaust in the bumper. I just gotta have those pipes showing. God, I sound like such a bogan! For any Stateside members, our 'bogan' is your 'redneck,' except worse!

Hey All, I have another question. I installed a plug into a rocker cover that used to feed fumes into the air cleaner (CA smog spec.) The engine's PCV valve looks after the fumes on the passenger side. With the factory blanking plug in place, do ya reckon there's enough 'breathing' happening? I'm considering one of those vented push in caps to assist. I imagine that if Pontiac fitted the blanking plug in the first place, then it's gonna be okay.

[64 kiwi boni]

fitzy, i wouldn't do that.

your in ozzy, you drive on lots of dusty roads, that little breather that your thinking of using is a air intake for your motor!!

your pcv valve is sucking air/fumes out of your motor and your saying you have plugged the air intake to your motor that was coming from the air cleaner.

 all those fumes that the motor is making are sucked up by the pcv valve and sucked back into the combustion chamber and out the tail pipe.

 if you go to an aftermarket breather, best use a good quality one that you can replace periodically. NOT the chrome speed shop type. 

[Fitzy]

Thanks Kiwi. This is where I have to hang my head in shame and finally admit that after 4 decades of fiddling with cars, I always knew what the PCV valve did but I always thought the air cleaner actually drew fumes into it from the rocker cover, and didn't act as a source of fresh air to purge the crankcase to send through the PCV valve - I always thought that fumes were sucked in by the air cleaner AND thru the PCV valve. I'll just have to monitor the oil and may modify the air breather in order to help the system. What started all this is that I am a huge fan of clean uncluttered engine bays. I once saw one where the engine was JUST engine: electric water pump, thermo fans, alternator driven from the prop shaft, no steer, no aircon, no wires  hidden wiper motor, smoothed sheetmetal and a very clean, nicely painted motor. No bling, all performance.

[64 kiwi boni]

15 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

Thanks Kiwi. This is where I have to hang my head in shame and finally admit that after 4 decades of fiddling with cars, I always knew what the PCV valve did but I always thought the air cleaner actually drew fumes into it from the rocker cover, and didn't act as a source of fresh air to purge the crankcase to send through the PCV valve - I always thought that fumes were sucked in by the air cleaner AND thru the PCV valve. I'll just have to monitor the oil and may modify the air breather in order to help the system. What started all this is that I am a huge fan of clean uncluttered engine bays. I once saw one where the engine was JUST engine: electric water pump, thermo fans, alternator driven from the prop shaft, no steer, no aircon, no wires  hidden wiper motor, smoothed sheetmetal and a very clean, nicely painted motor. No bling, all performance.

oh i hear what your saying mate, why not get rid of all that emissions crap and keep the engine bay clean and simple.

you could just do away with the pcv valve and just run a breather like 50s cars did.

that would be cool, but expect to smell some fumes when your driving along 😀

Edited November 5, 2020 by 64 kiwi boni

[Fitzy]

After a little research, it turns out that a properly functioning PCV system will not degrade performance or economy and will help keep the engine internals and oil clean, so for the sake of a couple of neat short hoses hidden under the air cleaner, I'll just leave it alone. 

As always, I appreciate the ideas and feedback.

[64 kiwi boni]

2 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

After a little research, it turns out that a properly functioning PCV system will not degrade performance or economy and will help keep the engine internals and oil clean, so for the sake of a couple of neat short hoses hidden under the air cleaner, I'll just leave it alone. 

As always, I appreciate the ideas and feedback.

good on ya mate, just pop it and give it  a wash in petrol , or brake clean make sure it rattles stick it back in.

and yeah a bit of nice new hose, jobs done👍

fitzy, tell me about your springs, are you happy with them ?

 i am about to send my standard ones for the 64 to the spring shop and have them make new ones 2 inches lower

where did you go with yours as far as height is concerned, and do you have any wheel clearance issues?

[Fitzy]

Hi Kiwi, I went 2" at the front & 1.5" rear using standard duty springs. No clearance issues EXCEPT for the close proximity of steering knuckle to inside edge of tyre, but I don't think it's anything to do with the new lowered stance. Check under the front of your Bonnie and see how it looks. The standard wheels will not foul the rear spats.

Of course, larger wheels may cause issues. I was going to go 2" lower all around but I wanted that slight rake to the front and I reckon a full tank of fuel will probably settle the back down nicely.

[Fitzy]

So, I contacted Ames to see where my order was. Everything was ready to send except for seat upholstery. No worries, send what you've got, I said. So, the Pontiac Room is now full of all sorts of goodies. With the new fuel sender installed at last, I reinstalled the tank, chucked some gas in and fired the Olde Girle up. I bodgied up the driver's seat with plywood and an old bedspread, chucked on the steering wheel and went up the driveway. Because we live in the tropics, our rainfall is legendary (when it eventually comes) and I have engineered the driveway to divert rainwater into one of our 'dams,' via a series of sculped bunds in the driveway, like speed humps but with a worthwhile purpose. Do you reckon my lowered 5 metre long land yacht was going to make it? Ba-bow! So, I played with the length of driveway I've got which is level and gave the GP a squirt and the bloody thing took off like a scolded cat - goodness me these old Yank Tanks get up and go when they are told to! Anyway, after much hand wringing and sleepless nights it's time to pull that 389 out, inspect the internals, chuck some fresh gaskets, seals and paint at it and while it's out do the steering box and front end (including some nicely lowered springs that I can live with and will perhaps enable the car to actually make it out of the driveway) and can clean up the engine bay. I'm happy with it's old warhorse faded paint but I want that engine bay looking sweet when I raise the hood.

So, I will happily post lots of photos when I start the engine pull. Gloves? Check. Hardhat? Check. Bandages and mobile phone close by to dial an ambulance when something goes wrong? Check. Lotto ticket so's I can actually afford a stroker kit from Butler? Check again. I've got the engine gasket kit, full ignition replacement kit, carby rebuild kit and TH400 filter kit. I just need the time, easily the most precious and rare commodity. My headers turned up and they are art. I have to somehow loosen the 55 year old manifold to pipe bolts in order to get things started. Is there a God Of Exhaust Bolts I need to pray to?

[64 kiwi boni]

Well done mate

sounds  like your having fun 🍻Show us a picture of your headers fitzy😀

Edited November 17, 2020 by 64 kiwi boni

[Wrongway]

Good job bro! Cant wait to see more pics!!! 

[Fitzy]

Here are the Doug's headers: man, they are beautiful. They look like they're stainless steel. I wanted to paint them before installation but am not sure if paint will stick to stainless without serious prep. Anyone know?

Another question: I want to use my factory fuse box and am wondering if anyone knows of the existence of glass fuse to blade fuse adaptors. They once existed but all leads go nowhere. As you can imagine, they pop in to the glass fuse cavity but with the convenience of a blade that slots in the top. Look, I'd happily replace the panel for a modern one but it's a job for a sparky and getting the car delivered anywhere at the moment is dramatic and expensive.

[Wrongway]

yup, sure are pretty Fitzy!

[64 kiwi boni]

your 65 must have the steering box in a different location to the 63 and 64 

those 2 center tubes are way different on the drivers side 

I just had my stainless headers power coated fitzy, lasts longer and reduces heat in your engine bay 👍

Edited November 18, 2020 by 64 kiwi boni

[Fitzy]

Hey Everyone, just got back from another insane bout of overtime. So, who wants a laugh? When I took El Poncho out the other day, it's so low at the front that when I drove it out of my carport and onto the dirt driveway, the rain had scoured some of the driveway away and when I dropped off the concrete, the resulting 3" gap caused the oil pan to get pushed up and now I can hear the crank just hitting the pan! It's okay, the engine was coming out anyway.

But...it gets funnier. You know I'm mad, right? When I get an idea in my head, I won't let go of it until it's fulfilled. Some would call this 'drive.' I call it low grade insanity. I gave up trying to find Rallye 2 wheels. I MUST have a lead sled Yank Tank but I want that 60s high performance look that only period correct Torq Thrust or Cragar SS wheels can give. In Australia, Cragars are $450 each! They are truly beautiful but, really? 450 bucks?

So, I settle for the Torq Thrust D but there's a problem. Because the car is low I am reluctant to step up to a 15 x 7 due to potential clearance issues, but the 14 x 6 Torqs only come in a 120.65 stud pattern. After much head scratching and looking at wheel adapters (no good because they will push the wheels further out into the guards and I don't feel comfortable using them anyway) I wonder if there's a business that modifies wheels. Sure enough, I find a mob in Melbourne that will change the PCD to 127. He does it by drilling out the existing holes and inserts a metal ring in each hole for the lug nut to sit against. Sweet. I study my factory arrangement. Hmm...aluminium wheels are thicker than steelies and I don't reckon I'll have enough thread to use my acorn lugs on the mags with about a 13mm thickness at the mounting point whereas a steelie is only a few mm. So, I reckon I'll need shank lugnuts. So, I contact the Lugnut King (I'm not making this up) who has asked me questions re stud & thread length.

I shall measure the studs tomorrow and let him know what's going on. Clearly, I need the modification chap to ensure that the inserts will accommodate a shank nut, so that when the wheels finally turn up, I can actually attach them.

Just to throw an additional spanner in the works, the Cragars are available as a 14 x 6 with the correct PCD, but the offset is a little worrying. There's a lesson here, folks. If you're going to modify, do your research and take your time. I know the end result will be worth it, but every time I look at that car, I will be reminded of the dramas I endured getting it to that point. Whaddya reckon, Torqs or Cragars? One 3 week swing of overtime will pay for the Cragars!

[JUSTA6]

5 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Hey Everyone, just got back from another insane bout of overtime. So, who wants a laugh? When I took El Poncho out the other day, it's so low at the front that when I drove it out of my carport and onto the dirt driveway, the rain had scoured some of the driveway away and when I dropped off the concrete, the resulting 3" gap caused the oil pan to get pushed up and now I can hear the crank just hitting the pan! It's okay, the engine was coming out anyway.

But...it gets funnier. You know I'm mad, right? When I get an idea in my head, I won't let go of it until it's fulfilled. Some would call this 'drive.' I call it low grade insanity. I gave up trying to find Rallye 2 wheels. I MUST have a lead sled Yank Tank but I want that 60s high performance look that only period correct Torq Thrust or Cragar SS wheels can give. In Australia, Cragars are $450 each! They are truly beautiful but, really? 450 bucks?

So, I settle for the Torq Thrust D but there's a problem. Because the car is low I am reluctant to step up to a 15 x 7 due to potential clearance issues, but the 14 x 6 Torqs only come in a 120.65 stud pattern. After much head scratching and looking at wheel adapters (no good because they will push the wheels further out into the guards and I don't feel comfortable using them anyway) I wonder if there's a business that modifies wheels. Sure enough, I find a mob in Melbourne that will change the PCD to 127. He does it by drilling out the existing holes and inserts a metal ring in each hole for the lug nut to sit against. Sweet. I study my factory arrangement. Hmm...aluminium wheels are thicker than steelies and I don't reckon I'll have enough thread to use my acorn lugs on the mags with about a 13mm thickness at the mounting point whereas a steelie is only a few mm. So, I reckon I'll need shank lugnuts. So, I contact the Lugnut King (I'm not making this up) who has asked me questions re stud & thread length.

I shall measure the studs tomorrow and let him know what's going on. Clearly, I need the modification chap to ensure that the inserts will accommodate a shank nut, so that when the wheels finally turn up, I can actually attach them.

Just to throw an additional spanner in the works, the Cragars are available as a 14 x 6 with the correct PCD, but the offset is a little worrying. There's a lesson here, folks. If you're going to modify, do your research and take your time. I know the end result will be worth it, but every time I look at that car, I will be reminded of the dramas I endured getting it to that point. Whaddya reckon, Torqs or Cragars? One 3 week swing of overtime will pay for the Cragars!

Cragers...for the win!

[64 kiwi boni]

oh Cragers all the way for me Fitzy, and i bet you will fined the correct offset too... i love chrome so i am bias  

[Frosty]

I bought a set of Cragars SS for my old '73 Lemans Sport Coupe back in 1979. I found them in my dad's garage when he passed away 2 years. They are a tad rusty now but I may get them re-chromed and use them in the future.

Cragars all the way!

 

[Wrongway]

Yup, Cragars if you can get them bud.

[Fitzy]

Damn it, I KNOW you're all right. Yes, I'll get the Cragars. I spent the afternoon measuring my existing factory steelies' backspacing and looking at all points under the car for ANY potential interference problems and weirdly, if anything the Cragars are actually going to improve the situation, where my tie rod ends are currently 10mm off the inside tyre sidewall (backspace is 4.33") the Cragars will come with a 3.37" backspace, so I gain an inch on the inside and there is an easy 1.6" to play with between the ouside of the tyre and the fender lip. The car's previous owner has squeezed 215 tyres onto the factory 6" rims and I believe 205s are optimum for that size rim, so there's another 10mm saved if I have to slim down to 205s.

Now...how do I tell the missus that I simply MUST do JUST ONE MORE 3 week overtime stint? I can't tell her the truth, obviously!

Yep, they're the ones - with the tick.

[Fitzy]

I have a tech question. Whilst fiddling about measuring my wheels, I thought I'd take the front brake drum off for a quick internal inspection. I found spacers on the wheel studs.

What's going on there-is this normal? I replaced the drum with & without the spacers and it seemed fine either way.

[Frosty]

Spacers aren't factory. I think someone added them to prevent the drum from rusting onto the hub. That's my suspicion anyway.

[Wrongway]

That's an interesting theory Frosty. I've never seen "spacers" either and my drums were so rusted on from sitting 9yrs before I got my car that I spent hours trying to get them off. I tried everything from beating, prying and even heat. So my question is have you ever heard of somebody putting "spacers" in to prevent the drum from rusting? Was that actually a thing bro? I can see the logic in it.

[64 kiwi boni]

10 hours ago, Fitzy said:

I have a tech question. Whilst fiddling about measuring my wheels, I thought I'd take the front brake drum off for a quick internal inspection. I found spacers on the wheel studs.

What's going on there-is this normal? I replaced the drum with & without the spacers and it seemed fine either way.

i couldnt think of any GOOD reason to have washers there!!short of making the shoes contact a slightly different surface. certainly would not leave them in there👍

11 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Now...how do I tell the missus that I simply MUST do JUST ONE MORE 3 week overtime stint? I can't tell her the truth, obviously!

haha, i know the feeling there Fitzy, good luck with making up a story worthy of Cragars !!

[Fitzy]

Yeah, I'll remove them and check the other front drum. The workshop manual shows no mention of them either. From the condition of the car when I took delivery, I don't think the previous owner would have been proactive enough to go to the trouble of installing 'anti rust' spacers in the drums. If the dude couldn't be bothered removing the soaked piece of filthy carpet that had been sitting in the trunk for years and causing all that rust, I doubt if he was ever under the car - that's apparently my job.

On a sadder note, I gently informed the missus that I just need to do one more 3 weeker to pay for those wheels. The silent glare that she responded with was withering enough for me to 'sob' save up for them. Oh, the pain!