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redgoat's 1967 GTO

2021 January
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i agree with Bear, try another lead at #1 

and maybe try the light on another car mate to see if its working correctly 

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With that mild cam, that procedure probably worked ok.  If you want to be certain, then it takes two complete revolutions of the engine.  Pull the rocker covers, turn the engine over by hand using a s

Double check your pushrods for straightness.  Rolling them on a flat piece of glass works really well.  If one wobbles at all, you know it's bent. Keep everything in order so you can reinstall in

It's very common for your 60 year old harmonic balancer to be off due to slippage and the old rubber.  But doesn't rule out timing gear/chain probs. Too much slack will alter timing and may not have j

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Ok bro I'll try that. But to add more confusion to it, the first light was working and reading (or we thought) before switching the springs. lol. I'm fairly sure that couldn't have anything to do with it and she is running better now then at any point since I got her. That's one of the videos from right before the timing light "went out". We haven't changed anything including the wires but I will try it with a different plug wire. Maybe one broke or split inside. I don't know but these wires only have maybe 5mi on them. 

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Hmmmm I believe so bro. But I will certainly check in the morning. I've got 1 that goes from the back of the engine to the fire wall and 1 from the side of the block to the frame. I'll check both and report back the findings.

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I'll definitely check in the morning 

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2 hours ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

Bad grounds from the body to the engine can cause all kinds of chase your tail issues...Possibly even timing light issues...

ah sooo True:cheers:

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That's a good thought about checking the ground connection.  I'd be surprised if the timing light issue is coming from an actual problem with the engine just because of how well it's running. It's not missing or otherwise "acting weird", so you can be pretty sure that plug is firing.  However the light isn't detecting it. 

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So I didn't have much time to play with the GP today but I did go out and check the grounds and let her run for a few min. Started right up! I checked and both of the ground straps were tight. The one from the back of the block to the fire wall where it is screwed into the firewall is sandwiched between the painted firewall and an anti-vibration clamp that holds wiring to the firewall. The anti-vibration clip does have rubber on it. Its not covered in rubber there's just a strip. Then the screw goes thru the metal hole on the clip then the ground strap then the firewall. All was tight.

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Thanks kiwi. I do have a multi-meter and will check that this afternoon or tomorrow. No I haven't tried it on another car yet. I'm not going out and haven't let anybody come over because of how bad corona is here. I don't know how to use it on a motorcycle, My truck has coil on plug so I don't know if I can use it on that and the 66 Delta I pulled the intake to replace it and the carb so its not running this week. Once the Delta is running I figured I would test the timing light on that.

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Ok so this is the first resistance test iv done. I read up on how to do it online. So If I did it incorrectly just let me know and I'll redo it. I included a pic of where I sent my meter and I checked it In multiple spots.

At the intake 00.1

At the bottom head bolt 00.1

At the valve cover bolt 00.1

My thoughts were that the bolts ran down into the block.

At the body strap bolt it flashed between 00.1 and 00.0

At the hood hinge bolt 00.1

I figured the hinge bolt went into the body.

Again, If I did it wrong or you need/want my to test somewhere else just let me know.

 

IMG_1096.jpg

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1 hour ago, Wrongway said:

Ok so this is the first resistance test iv done. I read up on how to do it online. So If I did it incorrectly just let me know and I'll redo it. I included a pic of where I sent my meter and I checked it In multiple spots.

At the intake 00.1

At the bottom head bolt 00.1

At the valve cover bolt 00.1

My thoughts were that the bolts ran down into the block.

At the body strap bolt it flashed between 00.1 and 00.0

At the hood hinge bolt 00.1

I figured the hinge bolt went into the body.

Again, If I did it wrong or you need/want my to test somewhere else just let me know.

 

IMG_1096.jpg

Your setting on your meter is too high mate turn it down to 200 ohms 

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Yeah bro, from the ground on the battery to a spot on the intake that paint flaked off and from the ground on the battery to a bolt on the fire wall. Does it matter if the battery is hooked up?  Mine was hooked up.

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:rofl: Yes, I did the exact same thing the first time I pulled this engine. "SNAP".  I replace both with copper straps when I reinstalled then engine. I also moved the one on the rear of the head to the back of the block and connected the battery ground cable to the same bolt. Then connected the strap to the painted firewall. I figured where the bolt went thru the fire wall would be a good ground, maybe not!

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1 minute ago, Wrongway said:

:rofl: Yes, I did the exact same thing the first time I pulled this engine. "SNAP".  I replace both with copper straps when I reinstalled then engine. I also moved the one on the rear of the head to the back of the block and connected the battery ground cable to the same bolt. Then connected the strap to the painted firewall. I figured where the bolt went thru the fire wall would be a good ground, maybe not!

:rofl: @ snap!!!:cheers:

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This boy was running around my mates paddock 2 days ago 

so he is fresh fresh 😜

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Damn that looks good bro! It was 42 here today!

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