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Ok bro I'll try that. But to add more confusion to it, the first light was working and reading (or we thought) before switching the springs. lol. I'm fairly sure that couldn't have anything to do with it and she is running better now then at any point since I got her. That's one of the videos from right before the timing light "went out". We haven't changed anything including the wires but I will try it with a different plug wire. Maybe one broke or split inside. I don't know but these wires only have maybe 5mi on them. 

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Hmmmm I believe so bro. But I will certainly check in the morning. I've got 1 that goes from the back of the engine to the fire wall and 1 from the side of the block to the frame. I'll check both and report back the findings.

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That's a good thought about checking the ground connection.  I'd be surprised if the timing light issue is coming from an actual problem with the engine just because of how well it's running. It's not missing or otherwise "acting weird", so you can be pretty sure that plug is firing.  However the light isn't detecting it. 

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So I didn't have much time to play with the GP today but I did go out and check the grounds and let her run for a few min. Started right up! I checked and both of the ground straps were tight. The one from the back of the block to the fire wall where it is screwed into the firewall is sandwiched between the painted firewall and an anti-vibration clamp that holds wiring to the firewall. The anti-vibration clip does have rubber on it. Its not covered in rubber there's just a strip. Then the screw goes thru the metal hole on the clip then the ground strap then the firewall. All was tight.

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wrong way, do you have a muti tester? 

if you do try doing a resistance test from the negative terminal on your battery and the engine block, that will tell you how good your earth is from battery  to engine 

set the meter to ohms, if you have a good connection the ohms reading should be close if not zero.

also do the same test between the battery negative and the body .

justA make sure that what every you contact is nice and clean, or you will get a false reading.

Have you tested the timing light on another car? 

 

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Thanks kiwi. I do have a multi-meter and will check that this afternoon or tomorrow. No I haven't tried it on another car yet. I'm not going out and haven't let anybody come over because of how bad corona is here. I don't know how to use it on a motorcycle, My truck has coil on plug so I don't know if I can use it on that and the 66 Delta I pulled the intake to replace it and the carb so its not running this week. Once the Delta is running I figured I would test the timing light on that.

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7 minutes ago, Wrongway said:

Thanks kiwi. I do have a multi-meter and will check that this afternoon or tomorrow. No I haven't tried it on another car yet. I'm not going out and haven't let anybody come over because of how bad corona is here. I don't know how to use it on a motorcycle, My truck has coil on plug so I don't know if I can use it on that and the 66 Delta I pulled the intake to replace it and the carb so its not running this week. Once the Delta is running I figured I would test the timing light on that.

Ah that’s not good about the virus mate 

please stay safe, it’s a crazy world we are living in at the moment :unsure:

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Ok so this is the first resistance test iv done. I read up on how to do it online. So If I did it incorrectly just let me know and I'll redo it. I included a pic of where I sent my meter and I checked it In multiple spots.

At the intake 00.1

At the bottom head bolt 00.1

At the valve cover bolt 00.1

My thoughts were that the bolts ran down into the block.

At the body strap bolt it flashed between 00.1 and 00.0

At the hood hinge bolt 00.1

I figured the hinge bolt went into the body.

Again, If I did it wrong or you need/want my to test somewhere else just let me know.

 

IMG_1096.jpg

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1 hour ago, Wrongway said:

Ok so this is the first resistance test iv done. I read up on how to do it online. So If I did it incorrectly just let me know and I'll redo it. I included a pic of where I sent my meter and I checked it In multiple spots.

At the intake 00.1

At the bottom head bolt 00.1

At the valve cover bolt 00.1

My thoughts were that the bolts ran down into the block.

At the body strap bolt it flashed between 00.1 and 00.0

At the hood hinge bolt 00.1

I figured the hinge bolt went into the body.

Again, If I did it wrong or you need/want my to test somewhere else just let me know.

 

IMG_1096.jpg

Your setting on your meter is too high mate turn it down to 200 ohms 

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3 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Ok bro, take a look at that pic. Is that where it needs to be? If so...

At the intake 5.8

At the ground strap bolt 6.5

IMG_1097.jpg

bang on mate,,, that tells you there is resistance in each of those earth straps, pull em sand the surfaces and hell, even test the strap with your ohm test. basically you should be some were in the 0.1ohms  ish area for a good low resistance earth strap.

 It will be oxidation, rust, shit, or all the above give em a good sand and clean and test again. i think two lane and bear are on to it.

 The ignition  isn't getting  a good earth back to the battery, 

remember your only playing with 12 volts its really easy for the current to drop off with a poor earth

now, your tests are between the battery earth terminal and the intake/ engine and best other one is the earth terminal and the body?

 

E91B9552-A5ED-4185-AC32-C222F37F9F98.jpeg

here is a dirty old earth strap and this is what you want to see as the level of resistance this ones 0.3 ohms

Edited by 64 kiwi boni
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Yeah bro, from the ground on the battery to a spot on the intake that paint flaked off and from the ground on the battery to a bolt on the fire wall. Does it matter if the battery is hooked up?  Mine was hooked up.

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if your 63 is like my 64, you will have a factory earth strap on the driverside rear head to the fire wall

and another one from the block to justA by the passenger upper A arm mount,,, i know this as i tore the back one as i lifted the 64 off the bent frame and i herd a snap! ( i didnt see it bolted there 🙄)hahaha

3 minutes ago, Wrongway said:

Yeah bro, from the ground on the battery to a spot on the intake that paint flaked off and from the ground on the battery to a bolt on the fire wall. Does it matter if the battery is hooked up?  Mine was hooked up.

nope :) 

but having said that its best to test the earth system with the strap off the battery

your girl is justA like mine, a little bit old and crusty HAHA :rofl:

everything may (look) ok but rust gets everywhere🙄 and everything like us ages😥

Edited by 64 kiwi boni
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:rofl: Yes, I did the exact same thing the first time I pulled this engine. "SNAP".  I replace both with copper straps when I reinstalled then engine. I also moved the one on the rear of the head to the back of the block and connected the battery ground cable to the same bolt. Then connected the strap to the painted firewall. I figured where the bolt went thru the fire wall would be a good ground, maybe not!

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1 minute ago, Wrongway said:

:rofl: Yes, I did the exact same thing the first time I pulled this engine. "SNAP".  I replace both with copper straps when I reinstalled then engine. I also moved the one on the rear of the head to the back of the block and connected the battery ground cable to the same bolt. Then connected the strap to the painted firewall. I figured where the bolt went thru the fire wall would be a good ground, maybe not!

:rofl: @ snap!!!:cheers:

  • Haha 1
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