Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

Praxus's 1965 Lemans

2020 May
of the Month

  • Welcome!

    Welcome to Forever Pontiac, where we keep the memory of Pontiac alive with great discussion, maintenance tips, restoration/modification progression "blogs" and help from professional & DIY mechanics. Also, wonderful competitions that occur regularly. Please register for an absolutely free account to join in!

Last Indian

Engine & Transmission oils & their chemistry’s

Recommended Posts

20 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

in the rockauto news letter today.......

 

 

Diesel Oil, Flat Tappets & Gas Engines

"Zinc" or "Phosphorus" on an oil bottle label usually is referring to the additive zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). ZDDP helps prevent wear, especially where the camshaft contacts the lifter in flat tappet lifter engines. Newer engines (since the late 1980s) have roller valve lifters and therefore do not benefit as much from ZDDP.

The anti-wear benefits of ZDDP were recognized in the 1950s. The oil of the 1950s had only about 300 parts per million (ppm) ZDDP. The concentration of ZDDP in motor oil gradually increased until it reached a maximum of 1200 to 1400 ppm in the 1980s. (More than 1400 ppm of ZDDP in oil actually starts to increase engine wear.)

Unfortunately, it was discovered that ZDDP makes catalytic converters for gasoline engines less effective by gradually coating the catalyst material with phosphate. To satisfy the latest API Service "SN" oil standard, oil manufacturers only put 600 to 800 ppm ZDDP in their oil.


Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil

For over a decade, car enthusiasts with flat tappet lifter engines have been debating whether the 600-800 ppm ZDDP in new "SN" oil is enough protection. Oil experts say that it is enough wear protection once the engine is broken in.

The flat tappet lifter equipped engines in my family fleet were all broken in around a half century ago. I still like to dote on my old cars by giving them a little extra ZDDP as long as it does not require too much hassle or extra money. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil has been one convenient option. It does not qualify for the "SN" rating because it has too much ZDDP and it is "not recommended for extended use in vehicles with catalytic converters."

Another new, less expensive possibility may be the 10W-30 oil made for some of the most modern diesel engines. Some old car enthusiasts have long recommended oil for diesel engines because it frequently contained more ZDDP. Unfortunately, diesel oil was typically only available in a heavy weight such as 15W-40.


Motorcraft's 10W-30 Oil for Diesels

The label on Motorcraft's 10W-30 oil for diesels says it "contains more than 1000 ppm phosphorus for better wear protection." That is 200 to 400 more ppm at little or no additional cost compared to "SN" 10W-30 oils. The Motorcraft diesel oil label also says, "do not use in gasoline engines equipped with catalysts."

I am testing the Motorcraft 10W-30 for diesels in the 351 under the hood of my 1971 Ford LTD convertible. However, I am not recommending that anyone else use oils labeled "diesel" in any gasoline engines. Please consult your vehicle's owners manual, the appropriate authorities, legal council, etc. before choosing a new type of oil for your specific engine. (For most vehicles, simply look under "Engine" and "Oil" in the RockAuto.com catalog to see manufacturer recommended choices. Oils listed by weight (10W-30, 0W-40, etc.) are found in the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab, under "Engine" and finally "Oil.")

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com

 

Where have I heard that before?! Sometimes I guess it just takes an outsider! I could expound, but! :willy_nilly:

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tired of these Ads? Register Today!

Posted (edited)
On 5/7/2020 at 5:16 AM, 64 kiwi boni said:

ok, so without being a scientist whats the best way to manage your engines oil ? by colour? mileage? smell, or all the above. ?🙄

and if you have a dirty engine whats the best way to clean it up without pulling it apart?

i do like your recommendation on engines that sit for long periods having clean oil which reduces  corrosion issues , but having said that whats the best thing to do for a engine that sits and you want to preserve it over a long period, do you start it and run it for 30 mins, or does it need to be taken for a run to load it up ?

How important is oil filter brand choice ???  :cheers:

 sorry last Indian for all the questions, but i do enjoy learning from people who have " been there done that" :bowdown:

 

Yes! All of it! Just like a medical Dr. they use everything, if they’re good, to determine what’s wrong with you. It’s like that, but there is a leaning curve.

“and if you have a dirty engine whats the best way to clean it up without pulling it apart?” change the oil & filter, run 200 to 300 miles, drain, & repeat. Do this and increase the flush miles by 100 miles each time by the time you reach 1000 mile drain flush, if not before you should see a marked improvement in oil cleanliness! If not, it’s not going to get better! 
Filters; there’s junk & there’s good stuff, but so many filter manufacturers have cheapened their products. Wix and AC Delco  use to be the best, but even those two had cheapened some of their line with a plastic cage arrangement! The best filters have metal top & bottom caps that are glued. Many will argue that oil is so clean today good filtration isn’t needed, that’s just plan stupid! The filter is more about what comes from the engine itself or what it may ingest through engine breathing! 
I personally have a stock pile of old style AC Delco’s that are the metal caps that are glued.

Edited by Last Indian
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Yup the wheels take some patients, but these push the things to new heights.

The outer rim inset is all finished by hand, as well as all the detail!

CA583DE7-96F5-4D4B-B2EC-3750287EA84B.jpeg
All those lines on the Indian are carved in by hand! It’s actually a little painful!

BD6E461C-117A-45B8-9036-2BDA77D96EE3.jpeg

0539310F-A5FB-41DA-BBCC-D762846E8119.jpeg

Last indian, what gets me is your sooo clearly a patient man 

 but also clearly very clever!

 why did you spend your working life as a oil scientist when you could have been in automotive design ?

 i am in aww off what you have hand made!:bowdown:

 you have shown us your super clean engineering shop/ garage 

 i am thinking you have always done this... these 2 fields are so far way from each other, i wonder if you had always had this hands on metal thing going on ??🙄

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last Indian,  you remind me of a very good friend of mine who is a Scotchman, living here in nz, 

he is a bone carver. he makes these amazing scripts on bone from whales bones, tigers teeth etc and it just so detailed and special 

 during the lock down 

 i had to fix his gas fire and he showed me what he was working on .

 it was the a tusk from a Narwhal whale and he was commissioned by its owner to " mount it"

what my friend did was he carved  in minuter, a whole picture of the whale its self into the horn and mounted it on a piece of rimu  

 guess what i am saying is that like him. your what i consider a Craftsman.👍 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.