1964 bonneville rebuild

[64 kiwi boni]

Tomorrow i will need to spend some time justA cleaning up all the body mount bolts, run a die over them and going through the car lot, of mounting bushes i have and picking the best condition ones.... most are in great shape, thats why i am not buying new ones.

the bolts are all pretty messed up, and certainly need a bit of a freshen up.

all the way through this job its been about cleaning, prepping/ painting parts or if they are buggered, just bighting the bullet and ordering new....( with mixed results) 

but man.... i have really enjoyed it, this car has been  soooo easy to work on

i hope, all  that read this can understand my long winded blurb, i have never done a ""thread"' before let a lone rebuilt a Pontiac, so its been a lot of fun to date👍and i am up to 16 pages of pure car blurb !!!🙄

and lovin every moment of it!!! 

The boss came out to the shed this afternoon to check on my progress, and stated, quote" i like this car now, i might claim it for myself" 

😏...heheehe, that means i can put in for my long branch headers for my birthday present next month,,, and i may get them!!! wee heee.......( maybe🙄)

it was a year today when i bought her home

 

[64 kiwi boni]

Started the day with spending a lot of time cleaning chassis mounts and bushings 

I have a new bit of garden art 😀.... one bent chassis 

I had completely forgotten to order a new steering coupling as it was completely buggered 

but I had the replacement one I had ordered from rock  auto for the 59 caddy 

guess what !!! Same coupling !!! 13/16 with a flat on one side !!! What luck 

 

[64 kiwi boni]

And then everything fell into place 👍👍👍👍👍👍😀👍😀😀😀😀

i now have a straight as 64 bonneville bolted to its new chassis 

sitting nice and straight ..... 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

i am super pleased with my weeks work and now it’s just down to all the little jobs to get her ready for registration 

Bit of mucking around with prepping what front clip parts I have not already cleaned / straightened and primed ahead of me, but thats for another time.

It’s friday night and it is certainly beer o clock 👍👍👍👍👍👍🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻

Edited January 8, 2021 by 64 kiwi boni

[JUSTA6]

Kickin A N takin names......NICE.

[Frosty]

What JUSTA said. You have kicked ass this week on that thing Kiwi. I'm so glad you've been sharing this with us.

[64 kiwi boni]

5 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Kickin A N takin names......NICE.

JustA, how you did this same swap without a hoist is justA mind boggling !!!

i would have had this car up and down on the hoist over two dozen times this week !!, justA aligning the bolts to the chassis took 2 hours and that was with a hoist !!! 

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

What JUSTA said. You have kicked ass this week on that thing Kiwi. I'm so glad you've been sharing this with us.

Thank you frosty , I really had a mind set. That I needed this week to really get into this major job..... and get as much done as possible 👍👍👍👍

[Wrongway]

Well you did an awesome job bro! Love the yard art

[64 kiwi boni]

And day 6 is all about cleaning up my mess and getting the car back out of the park space for the hellcat.

i had a simple plan, but then noticed the trans was sitting to high in the tunnel 

[64 kiwi boni]

This with the big dent in the drive shaft suggested that this car must have been put on a stack , it the only way I can think that not only the drive shaft was bent but the trans mount got pushed up . 

So I have removed the tube cross member and put it in my press and moved it 30mm and now it sit the trans where I think it should be 

I can see the trans Pan is parallel to the frame rails and I have clearance for the drive shaft 

[JUSTA6]

19 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

JustA, how you did this same swap without a hoist is justA mind boggling !!!

i would have had this car up and down on the hoist over two dozen times this week !!, justA aligning the bolts to the chassis took 2 hours and that was with a hoist !!! 

Thank you frosty , I really had a mind set. That I needed this week to really get into this major job..... and get as much done as possible 👍👍👍👍

LMAO  NOT the smartest thing I've ever done.  Have an industrial come along.  Cut a 6X6 barn beam to cover 4,  2X4 trusses for each end of the body.   Lifted the front of the body 4in and left it hangin by chain.  I had mis- aligned the front 6X6 and was off center on the rear of the body leaving most of the weight on 2 trusses.  YEP   Snap....busted one of the trusses while pulling out the old frame.  If this thing goes any more South, I not only take out my project GTO but my Sunbird sittin next to it as well. 16 x24 garage with one side of each car tucked up against the wall.  Scrambled to get the setup that failed on the donor body in place with cinder blocks and 4X4's to sit on, with JUSTA nuff room (1in clearance for the outside edge of the tires) to roll the frame QUICKLY but carefully in place.  Lowered the bod back down and lined up 1 rear body mount bolt.   Then to the front.  Had a hell of time lining up the front mounts missing by a half in.  I was down to the last 1/4in and couldn't get the bolts in soooo.  Mighty Mouse here has the weight in the rear JUSTA off the mount with a 2X4 and floor jack. Same in front,  I grab the front of the body by the steering column hole and the heater core hole and pick it up, move it Justa bit and of course one of 2x4's slipped dropping the body 3/4 in or so but perfectly in place.  Problem was, tore my right rotator cuff (that was already tore in one spot)  and all of the 4 tendons that work my right arm.  My right arm was dangling and I couldn't move it. My fingers still worked.  So finished installing the bolts on the body mounts before going in to tell the wife the good news.   My bicept is now down at my elbo as they not able to re attach that one during surgery.  When it was in the air I realized how bad it was really rusted. The frame shop said to junk it.  Didn't believe him.  Not about to give up now.  Floor pans front to trunk, all new bracing, inner rockers, and about 6in of the pillar post/kick panel to the top of the vent.  New body mount brackets in the rear and repair kits for some of the others.   OHHH for the LOVE of PONTIAC.

[Last Indian]

7 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

This with the big dent in the drive shaft suggested that this car must have been put on a stack , it the only way I can think that not only the drive shaft was bent but the trans mount got pushed up . 

So I have removed the tube cross member and put it in my press and moved it 30mm and now it sit the trans where I think it should be 

I can see the trans Pan is parallel to the frame rails and I have clearance for the drive shaft 

Kiwi, It is reasonable to presume that the tranny pan should be parallel to the frame rails, but what is actually more relevant is that the mounting face of the carburetor on the intake manifold be level! This needs to be level! This can only be done accurately when the car is on the ground and the suspension is complete and loaded! I.E. car is basically completed, interior is in, all body panels on, gas tank full or at least approximated with weight, etc.. This is actually a fairly critical measurement as it then will give you the angle of the driveshaft to the differential! Which in turn is relevant, because you need a proper angle within a range to make the universal joints work, but not so great that it causes the driveshaft to whip!

Edited January 9, 2021 by Last Indian

[64 kiwi boni]

4 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

LMAO  NOT the smartest thing I've ever done.  Have an industrial come along.  Cut a 6X6 barn beam to cover 4,  2X4 trusses for each end of the body.   Lifted the front of the body 4in and left it hangin by chain.  I had mis- aligned the front 6X6 and was off center on the rear of the body leaving most of the weight on 2 trusses.  YEP   Snap....busted one of the trusses while pulling out the old frame.  If this thing goes any more South, I not only take out my project GTO but my Sunbird sittin next to it as well. 16 x24 garage with one side of each car tucked up against the wall.  Scrambled to get the setup that failed on the donor body in place with cinder blocks and 4X4's to sit on, with JUSTA nuff room (1in clearance for the outside edge of the tires) to roll the frame QUICKLY but carefully in place.  Lowered the bod back down and lined up 1 rear body mount bolt.   Then to the front.  Had a hell of time lining up the front mounts missing by a half in.  I was down to the last 1/4in and couldn't get the bolts in soooo.  Mighty Mouse here has the weight in the rear JUSTA off the mount with a 2X4 and floor jack. Same in front,  I grab the front of the body by the steering column hole and the heater core hole and pick it up, move it Justa bit and of course one of 2x4's slipped dropping the body 3/4 in or so but perfectly in place.  Problem was, tore my right rotator cuff (that was already tore in one spot)  and all of the 4 tendons that work my right arm.  My right arm was dangling and I couldn't move it. My fingers still worked.  So finished installing the bolts on the body mounts before going in to tell the wife the good news.   My bicept is now down at my elbo as they not able to re attach that one during surgery.  When it was in the air I realized how bad it was really rusted. The frame shop said to junk it.  Didn't believe him.  Not about to give up now.  Floor pans front to trunk, all new bracing, inner rockers, and about 6in of the pillar post/kick panel to the top of the vent.  New body mount brackets in the rear and repair kits for some of the others.   OHHH for the LOVE of PONTIAC.

Gees JustA, i didnt know you hurt your self in the process of the job too

well done!!! you did a great job with what resources you had on hand 

[64 kiwi boni]

3 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Kiwi, It is reasonable to presume that the tranny pan should be parallel to the frame rails, but what is actually more relevant is that the mounting face of the carburetor on the intake manifold be level! This needs to be level! This can only be done accurately when the car is on the ground and the suspension is complete and loaded! I.E. car is basically completed, interior is in, all body panels on, gas tank full or at least approximated with weight, etc.. This is actually a fairly critical measurement as it then will give you the angle of the driveshaft to the differential! Which in turn is relevant, because you need a proper angle within a range to make the universal joints work, but not so great that it causes the driveshaft to whip!

Hi last Indian, yes i had completely forgotten that! 

i know that all other factors are correct, like the engine is on the correct mounts, diff is at the correct angle thanks to the stock control arms and my only variable is the up down location of that trans mount, and not having another one from the donner chassis i reused the one off my bent frame.

what i will do is wait, like you said till i have the front suspension completed, sheet metal on and i have the ride height correct, then i will use my digital level on the carb base to check what its at. It is a simple cross member to pull and adjust.👍

So your thought would be to have the engine at level with the car sitting at the correct ride height, and that should provide the correct angle out of the trans to the drive shaft?  or should i be also and checking the degree of angle that drive shaft is at too?

 

 

 

 

last Indian the other issue I would like your thoughts on is the steering arm that was out by 16mm, i have put it in the press and moved it back to the correct location and fitted it back up so that i have steering.

i dont have a spare one, what are your thoughts on having it crack tested and possible reusing it ?

 i did not heat it up, i simply pressed it as in the picture🙄

Edited January 9, 2021 by 64 kiwi boni

[64 kiwi boni]

Sitting a lot more happier now... a very un- bent 1964 Pontiac Bonneville 

Edited January 9, 2021 by 64 kiwi boni

[Last Indian]

9 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

LMAO  NOT the smartest thing I've ever done.  Have an industrial come along.  Cut a 6X6 barn beam to cover 4,  2X4 trusses for each end of the body.   Lifted the front of the body 4in and left it hangin by chain.  I had mis- aligned the front 6X6 and was off center on the rear of the body leaving most of the weight on 2 trusses.  YEP   Snap....busted one of the trusses while pulling out the old frame.  If this thing goes any more South, I not only take out my project GTO but my Sunbird sittin next to it as well. 16 x24 garage with one side of each car tucked up against the wall.  Scrambled to get the setup that failed on the donor body in place with cinder blocks and 4X4's to sit on, with JUSTA nuff room (1in clearance for the outside edge of the tires) to roll the frame QUICKLY but carefully in place.  Lowered the bod back down and lined up 1 rear body mount bolt.   Then to the front.  Had a hell of time lining up the front mounts missing by a half in.  I was down to the last 1/4in and couldn't get the bolts in soooo.  Mighty Mouse here has the weight in the rear JUSTA off the mount with a 2X4 and floor jack. Same in front,  I grab the front of the body by the steering column hole and the heater core hole and pick it up, move it Justa bit and of course one of 2x4's slipped dropping the body 3/4 in or so but perfectly in place.  Problem was, tore my right rotator cuff (that was already tore in one spot)  and all of the 4 tendons that work my right arm.  My right arm was dangling and I couldn't move it. My fingers still worked.  So finished installing the bolts on the body mounts before going in to tell the wife the good news.   My bicept is now down at my elbo as they not able to re attach that one during surgery.  When it was in the air I realized how bad it was really rusted. The frame shop said to junk it.  Didn't believe him.  Not about to give up now.  Floor pans front to trunk, all new bracing, inner rockers, and about 6in of the pillar post/kick panel to the top of the vent.  New body mount brackets in the rear and repair kits for some of the others.   OHHH for the LOVE of PONTIAC.

Been there! Done that! Not to take one damn thing away from the amazing job you did buddy! But at least you had a garage! When I did the full frame conversion on the “69” , I had a set of homemade wood sawhorses and a stone driveway! I still have indents in my back!😳

[Last Indian]

4 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Hi last Indian, yes i had completely forgotten that! 

i know that all other factors are correct, like the engine is on the correct mounts, diff is at the correct angle thanks to the stock control arms and my only variable is the up down location of that trans mount, and not having another one from the donner chassis i reused the one off my bent frame.

what i will do is wait, like you said till i have the front suspension completed, sheet metal on and i have the ride height correct, then i will use my digital level on the carb base to check what its at. It is a simple cross member to pull and adjust.👍

So your thought would be to have the engine at level with the car sitting at the correct ride height, and that should provide the correct angle out of the trans to the drive shaft?  or should i be also and checking the degree of angle that drive shaft is at too?

 

 

 

 

last Indian the other issue I would like your thoughts on is the steering arm that was out by 16mm, i have put it in the press and moved it back to the correct location and fitted it back up so that i have steering.

i dont have a spare one, what are your thoughts on having it crack tested and possible reusing it ?

 i did not heat it up, i simply pressed it as in the picture🙄

Once you install the driveshaft you should check the driveshaft angle to verify it’s in the proper range. If it ends up out of range you’ll have to determine what you might change if anything! But knowing where it’s at is always good to know!

The steering arm is most likely ok! First of all it’s cast steel, which is more ductile! Cast iron is pretty unforgiving. Plus 5/8 of an inch movement in the arch that your steering arm has isn’t much! Last if you have a concern you could get the arm shot peened and than magnafluxed! 

[JUSTA6]

6 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Sitting a lot more happier now... a very un- bent 1964 Pontiac Bonneville 

Looks sooo much happier now.

[JUSTA6]

6 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Gees JustA, i didnt know you hurt your self in the process of the job too

well done!!! you did a great job with what resources you had on hand 

Had to pick the body back up and slid the 4x4's between the frame and body.  Did all the replacing/rebuilding of metal from there.  Welding was a big part of my physical therapy beginning 3 weeks after surgery.  

[JUSTA6]

2 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Been there! Done that! Not to take one damn thing away from the amazing job you did buddy! But at least you had a garage! When I did the full frame conversion on the “69” , I had a set of homemade wood sawhorses and a stone driveway! I still have indents in my back!😳

I hear that buddy, still have those indents too.  Before I built the garage and poured a cement pad in front of it.  I have many LOL driveway moments, before and after.  Going on 44 years I've owned this place.  When did I have time to get this old?? 

[64 kiwi boni]

Been there! Done that! Not to take one damn thing away from the amazing job you did buddy! But at least you had a garage! When I did the full frame conversion on the “69” , I had a set of homemade wood sawhorses and a stone driveway! I still have indents in my back!😳

 

Last indian!!!! wtf ! you did your 69 out side???

 and you JustA,, stitching sheet metal in after your surgery!!! another wtf !

 you both are legends   

Having said that, the only reason i have a shed, and hoist is these things were not around when i was young,the only hoist i knew of was at our local garage and it was one of those great big single rams that came out of the floor with two parallel rails 

And sheds are cheap now, and made wholly of steel now, mine was 42 k back in 2005 thats for 1938 square feet

My dad ( back in the day) had made a set of ramps and we would drive the car up onto them... very carefully not to drive off the other end!!🙄

i built a roof over my 61 implala and it wasnt flash!! hahaha.. ok it was ruff as guts, i was a teenager   

16 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Once you install the driveshaft you should check the driveshaft angle to verify it’s in the proper range. If it ends up out of range you’ll have to determine what you might change if anything! But knowing where it’s at is always good to know!

The steering arm is most likely ok! First of all it’s cast steel, which is more ductile! Cast iron is pretty unforgiving. Plus 5/8 of an inch movement in the arch that your steering arm has isn’t much! Last if you have a concern you could get the arm shot peened and than magnafluxed! 

Thats exactly what i will do Last Indian, i will find a engineering shop that can  magnaflux and shot peen it for my own peace of mind..... Thank you

 

Edited January 10, 2021 by 64 kiwi boni

[64 kiwi boni]

Going to drop the bent radiator off at my Radiator shop this morning, hopefully he can re-core it, the top tank is twisted, but its brass so i am expecting he will be able to straighten it 🙄

fingers crossed 👍

[JUSTA6]

Good Luck.

[Wrongway]

🤞

[64 kiwi boni]

Have a list of gear to get today for the weekend, and i am going to drop the bent drive shaft off at the engineers to make a whole replacement today

Edited January 14, 2021 by 64 kiwi boni

[64 kiwi boni]

Boxes ticked today.

 Drive shaft at engineers, will get new tube, universals and balance, be ready next week.

Brake hoses dropped off at my mates brake shop, he is going to make some really cool hoses... more to come🙄

Hoses for power steer dropped off at the hydraulic hose guy ( old customer of mine) and he will reproduce the factory hose and supply some 3/8 return hose.

I had a really hard time finding a litre can of satin black paint in this town to use on the radiator cross member and inner guards, i justA hope what i have will work🙄... thats tomorrows job, sand blast, prep, paint the radiator cross member.

heck if i get time i will start work on both inner guards too👍

 Called in and saw my radiator mate, he was humming and hurring about the cost of the new core, i said to him i could buy a rock auto aluminum one( most likely made in china) for $352 usd or get a ames copper one $599 usd both plus freight and tax and  conversion rate to nz dollar. 

or i could pay what ever it is for him to make me one and know that if anything goes wrong with it, that he would stand by his work... enough said !!👍

he has ordered the custom made core and once it arrives, straighten the tanks off my bent one and solder it all together.

Job done