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This car 2000 GA 2.4l recommends 215/60r15 @ 30 psi cold ... I have 195/65r15 on right now. How much air press would you all rec of them? 

 

I had 38 in them yesterday and was doing 70mph and when over a spot of HW in Winston where they grounded the black top down, and it put a pop not on it. So I changed it and made all tires 30psi seems to ride better to. All tire same size btw. 

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What is the maximum cold inflation limit of your tire? It's on your tire. It's usually not a good idea to inflate them to the max because as the tire heats up, Charle's Law says this will increase tire pressure. 

Also consider what over inflation (or near over inflation) can possibly do to your contact patch. 

Tire-inflation.jpg

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So here is a good one. What causes all tire to ware out on the inside track front and back. The shocks seem good. Like if I push down on car it stands up and doesn't shake or anything. The car drives like an arrow. Like on a almost perfect road I can let go of the wheel for close to a mile with no corrections. On non-perfect road it will go right or left...???? 

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On 11/3/2018 at 3:45 PM, Lynn5907 said:

This car 2000 GA 2.4l recommends 215/60r15 @ 30 psi cold ... I have 195/65r15 on right now. How much air press would you all rec of them? 

 

I had 38 in them yesterday and was doing 70mph and when over a spot of HW in Winston where they grounded the black top down, and it put a pop not on it. So I changed it and made all tires 30psi seems to ride better to. All tire same size btw. 

Business 40 thru the downtown area....??

Or 52 just north of Research parkway...??

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

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3 hours ago, Lynn5907 said:

So here is a good one. What causes all tire to ware out on the inside track front and back. The shocks seem good. Like if I push down on car it stands up and doesn't shake or anything. The car drives like an arrow. Like on a almost perfect road I can let go of the wheel for close to a mile with no corrections. On non-perfect road it will go right or left...???? 

Have the tires been rotated on a regular schedule...??

Can make really big difference in how they wear....

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

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Between exit 184 and 180 right where the bridge over yadkin river

There used tires and yes they get moved around lol.  The outsides of tire ware fine it is just the insides of front and rear ones. Like this /------\ is how they sit not that extreme tho. Ill get some pics up soon

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Ok so it goes top to bottom pics RL FR FL RR don't ask why I took pic in that order

15417013762833279893488429151848.jpg

15417014626898072221442034943571.jpg

15417015209766927390348866591949.jpg

15417015941917537842023421154178.jpg

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My guess would be either a severe alignment problem (toe-in/toe-out), drag link (loose tie rod end, idler or pitman arm or center links), or possibly some sort of bad ball joint problem based on the wear on your tires. You may also have a camber problem based on the way your front tires lean.

Take it to a reliable alignment shop and have them diagnose all your front suspension woes. I suspect you probably have more than one.

 

363b49cef8f840109c010b3724e4d3ae_c1x0-11

Edited by Frosty
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Yea probably ball joints and control arms bushings .. Thought so just wanted to make sure shocks wouldn't do that . I mean they will if there bad like really bad. I can align them ... Ever use a tape measure and go inner tread of tire to next inner tread on front and back of tire. I can get it in with + or - 5% according to dad machine ... Sometimes its a pain in the ass to get steering wheel straight ... If the wheel is way off then I have to use the alignment machine and contraptions ....  I ask my dad these questions then I get the look of ( really ur not stupid or use ur head for something besides a hat rack ) hahaha

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Thanks I needed that hahahahahaha

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Yep like u so said. Tie rods where shot and bushing .... Car now turns scary sharp. This whole time I thought the car had great handling well come to find out it didn't. Next up ball joints and a wheel bearing or two. Question the oil when I drained it had like a glitter look. Not bad just like I could tell there was metal wear ... No flakes no large pieces oil was still amber on the stick. I had to look closely with a bright flashlight to see what was in there anyway. What do u all think?

20181121_203019.jpg

20181121_202915.jpg

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They do look pretty well used up.......

 Next time you change the oil... Use a tubing cutter or some snips and cut open the old oil filter.... Then you will be able to get a better idea of what's in the oil....Don't use a hacksaw or anything like that to cut it open with.... It will leave metal chips or shavings in the filter...And you won't know what was already there and what was put there during the cutting process.......

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP
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Word! Thanks for all the help

Two lane blacktop

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Another thing you can try is getting a magnetic oil drain plug. It will attract metal shaving to it as the engine runs. When you change your oil, you will see the shavings stuck to it when you remove the plug to drain the oil.

Two Lane’s method regarding cutting open the oil filter is widely used !

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Now I'm hearing a hollowed muffled almost bell like sound. It sounds the same cold or hot. When I first started the car in the morning I don't hear no chatter or anything. I'll try to get a vid of the sound. 

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Without listening to the engine first hand..Would be almost impossible to even try to guess what it might be....

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

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Understood. Btw there is a post engine oil it has more videos. And one of the old oil. Thanks two lane blacktop

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