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Pontiac of the Month

FBIRD69's 1969 Firebird

2024 March
of the Month

Stripes

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Everything posted by Stripes

  1. They fit a 1969 Firebird with no issues in front, so I don't see how it could be an issue.
  2. I just use a end of a regular large screw driver chucked into a cordless drill. Worked fine.
  3. On cars that don't get driven often that have cast iron rear wheel cylinders, its pretty common to see them rust, leak, and fail. I see there are places that will sleeve your OE wheel cylinder with brass or stainless and warranty them for life ($89 each). Is anyone aware of wheel cylinders being sold already sleeved or in a aluminum, brass, or stainless material? My 1969 Firebird rear wheel cylinders are about as common as they come. They are used by GM for 20 plus years in almost everything. They are cheap to buy new, only about 10 bucks each in iron. But they rust fast if not driven much. Has anyone seen any better replacements?
  4. heat gun works well for me also. I see the pros using them in tint shops. Just keep the heat moving, start an edge and heat the area where the tint is coming off the glass.
  5. It could be in your ignition switch, but I agree the solenoid is likely the issue.
  6. I've had this issue before and tried to fix it the wrong way, by enlarging the bolt holes. The problem when you do that is the intake runners are not left matching the head ports and flow suffers. It may also leak. I found that my block had been decked and my heads cut to straighten everything out in my last rebuild. The solution is to have the manifold cut to allow it to fit properly. There is a chart that shows how much to cut off the intake based on how much was cut off the rest. I'll see if I can find the chart. Unless you had that motor since new, and its never been apart would you know if a critical dimension has changed? Head gasket change could even cause issues. Check out this. http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-intake-mill.php
  7. Ignition timing has 4 components: initial, the rate of advance, total advance, vacuum advance. Your initial is 6BTDC. Thats low enough. Your total is 32BTDC. Most say the range should be 32-36 depending on load, size, weight, gearing, etc. Close enough. What is your rate of ignition advance? At 3000 RPM, is all 32 degrees in? Is it all in at 1800 rpm? You need to test for pinging with the current set up with the vacuum advance disconnected. If it doesn't ping then, try hooking the vacuum can to a ported carb connection and see what it does. If it pings without the V advance connected, what heads and or compression ratio are you running? Some head combo show 10.75 to 1, too high for today's pump gas in most cars. Those vacuum cans have different rates of advance AND differing total advance. On my car I found the v advance coming in too soon and providing too much. Looks like your can is providing 18 degrees at full vacuum. Many feel 10 degrees is about right. Stay away from adjustable v advance cans, they typically only adjust the total advance and not the rate of advance. It sounds like you need a new v advance can.
  8. An HEI puts nearly double the amperage to the plugs than a point ignition. Pontiac increased the gap from .035 to .060 when the HEI was initially introduced. In the years after that, many moved back to a .045 gap feeling the .060 was excessive. It will not hurt it to run any of those gaps, so the best way to know is to test your application. I run a .045 gap in my 469 with a factory HEI, and it likes it. Remember, the most common issue with HEI swaps is the points style distributor had a resistance wire powering it limiting voltage but primarily amperage to the point set. An HEI needs full voltage and plenty of current to operate at its peak. So run no resistor or resistance wire and ensure you have at least a 12 gauge or larger wire supplying power. You have to verify that with the engine running.
  9. 1969 Firebird (real) Trans Am. Just out of paint, on the way home. Looking forward to getting her on the road.
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