Stripes

I might add, I found my vapor lock issue was the fuel heating in the mechanical fuel pump prior to the EFI install. Everything else i tried did not correct the issue, the EFI did. Gasoline at vacume, being sucked in by the mechanical pump way up front on the engine, can cause the fuel to boil at less than 90F. Vapor doesn't pump thru a mechanical pump.. Boiling gasoline at 60 psi has to be near 300F. This why new cars don't vapor lock, since they all have intank pumps and a 6" or less suction line, the rest is pressurized fuel line.

I did clean up the wires some, wrapped then in flexable conduit. I'm a fan of things looking stock. I ran the power wire (Ron Francis 10 Gauge relay kit FP36) inside the passenger fender, into the car where the radio antenna enters, thru the cars wiring channel inside the floor, to the trunk. Here I installed the Ron Francis crash relay that disconnects power to the pump if the car is impacted. The holley system shuts the pump down if the engine isn't spinning. This all hooked up to the battery and is essentially invisible, as its under the fender, or routed thru the car. I do not believe in running the pump wire outside the car underneath for a lot of reasons.

I needed 60 lbs of fuel pressure at all times with the Sniper. Its nearly impossible to find a external location to mount a fuel pump lower than the tank as suggested, plus I did not want to hear it. So. I ordered from Butler Tanks tan-tm32bn-t fuel tank with internal 400 lph pump as they recommend. Installation was easy, bolt in. You cannot see or hear the pump, and it works grear. No more vapor lock, no fuel smell in the garage, and cold starts like a new car every time. By installing the regulator at the tank, i didn't have to install but a 6 inch return line, and reused the factory 3/8 fuel line to supply the engine 60 psi fuel.

Petronix is great when new. However, they fail often. When you run a hei you can get any part anywhere for it. When your petronix module frys, and they all do, you are stuck until summit or jegs can overnight you one. There is no performance advantage, the hei is superior in every way. Research it. Pontiac knew what they were doing. Larger cap, less crossfire. More amps to the plugs = wider gap= more power.

A pontiac torker 1 is very similar to what you are describing. They were terrible street manifolds, performance wise. They looked good...

my 900 cfm holley sniper xfi on our 469 is fantastic! With a few manifold mods, bolts on and run better than ever.

of course it will, if the engine was assembled properly. I regularly ran a 200 kit on a 400 with stock rods and crank. Don't run it lean, meaning you better design and ensure an adequate fuel supply or it will melt your pistons like butter in a volcano.

Butler uses the BOP seal. Use the 2 piece BOP seal. BOP themselves admit they have better luck with them than the 1 piece seal they make.

doubt it fixed it. My flow cooler water pump made mine run hotter. My guess is a leak or you need a radiator.

I can't tell if you are discussing pontiac engines or chevy engines. Regardless cubic inches matter. More is always better unless you are competing for mpg. A 455 will make more power and torque everywhere over a 400 cu in moter in a street car with similar equipment. And it will do better with a larger cam as far as idle and build power at a lower rpm, great for street cars. If you can buy an aftermarket block, stretch it to 600 cu in. It will trounce the 455 engine. Pontiac went from 326 to 389 to 400 to 455 for a reason. Torque.

go 700r4 and never look back.

The correct question is how much nitrous will it take before you blow it up. I ran a 400, stock bottom end and hot cam with a 200 kit with no problems. BUT, I didn't run it often, I made sure I had an adequate fuel supply. And made sure it had a rev limiter on the engine. With forged pistons you are in good shape as long as you set it up correctly. Nitrous does not allow for ANY mistakes. Fuel pump fails mid run, engine melts, fuel solenoid sticks or gets disconnected, engine melts. No second chances. Also the amount of fuel required to properly feed a 200hp kit is huge. Nitrous runs very rich to cool the engine, thus needs a lot of fuel in a hurry. It took a seperate 1/2 fuel line and electric pump to feed only my nitrous kit! Good luck!!

Thanks for your incorrect speculation on the equipment I purchased and installed on my vehicle. I know what I installed on my car, geez get over yourself. My point is that I have compared and experienced both halogen and HID headlights side by side on my vehicles. I didnt need a physics lesson or deep dive into reflector technology to SEE which were vastly better. I come to forums like this to learn from what others experienced and share my own experiences.

Cold case all the way. Brass 4 vote radiators can not compare. It has nothing to do with the material it's made from and everything to do with the way the tubes are engineered. The 2 core cold case removes far more heat than any factory brass unit. Why? The 2 core is the SAME thickness as the 4 core, but with thinner wider tubes that dissipate heat better. I've run both the only one who thinks a 4 core brass is better hasn't had a cold case yet.

The fix to this is adding a diode to L wire on your regulator to prevent the back feeding. The 10 DN alternator is so weak, even better is a 10 SI or even better a cs130.

That's not a valve, that's only a vacuum Tee. A local hardware store will have a brass threaded pipe that will thread into the carb. Attach your vacume line to that.

Yes I had Cibies. Yes they had h4 bulbs, and 7" glass lenses in my RX7. Yes they weren't legal, and yes I ran them everywhere with no issues. They were not hard to obtain. They were a vast improvement over stock lights of the time period, and were vastly better than any T3 light. The halogen bulbs at the time were expensive and burnt out often. However, the point was, both are outdated today. The HID lights do more using less resources, more durable, last longer, and are far far brighter in both volume and intensity. They can fit in the Cibie housings if you wish. Cibie sold quite a few pairs of thier lights, I had exactly one pair. I'm not sure what your jibberish is regarding housings, but I promise you new vehicles with those projector hid lights are far brighter than any 7" Cibie. However, I drive a classic car and do not have the luxury of selecting the size of the headlights, I have to go with what is there. The bulbs I can change.

When GM ran into this hot start issue on 455's and 400's they replaced the spring in the starter mounted solenoid with a weaker version to allow it to engage. The hotter the coil in the solenoid, the less efficient they are and this causes it to be unable to overcome the spring pressure. The new spring helped, but was not always a solution. Today there is a 100% fix, a gear reduction starter. Our 455 bored 60 over, 10.5 to 1, Pontiac starts every time with ease with our starter and its half the original starter size. It cost more than a crappy factory starter but less than a factory starter and a tow bill. We went with a Powermaster Ultra Torque Starters from Summit. There may be other that are better, but this one has been flawless for us.

I had some of those Cibie headlights in the 90's. They and the T3 replacement headlights are dinosaurs today. Those T3 light are barely any brighter than the crappy stock lights and SUCK the amps out of your likely undersized for them headlamps alternator. The answer? HID headlights, for sure. My HID headlamps appear stock, use lots less amps than a halogen or OE light, and on low beam put out at least 100 times more light. I don't even use high beams for fear of blinding low aircraft. Ok, that may be a little exaggeration. But one HID light puts out more light that 4 factory lights by far. Check out https://www.octanelighting.com and thank me later. Check out the presentation I gave below, and no, I do not work for octane lighting. April Tech N 10 DAPA headlights.pptx

how old is the gas in the car? I'm guessing its old gas in a vented tank and all the good stuff has left the building. I would drain it and fill it with alcohol free premium.

Hello. I commend you for asking this question. I can and will give you the correct answer based on my experience with multiple carbs and numerous Pontiac engines. No, it's not too big. The question really is, is it too small? Since nearly every 67-79 Pontiac came with a Rochester carb, and they were rated between 700 to 800 cfm, a 770 is plenty close enough to never cause a problem from being too big. However, the real answer needs more data. For a Pontiac V8, we essentially need 4 things to know for sure what's best, since we know displacement already. 1. Heads, stock or aftermarket aluminum? Ie do they have improved flow rate and if so how much? 2. Camshaft duration at .050". If you open the valves longer, it sucks harder on the carb, hence bigger can help, to a point. 3. Compression: If you are running aluminum heads, 10.5 to 1 compression, it has a totally different need than a 7 to 1 smog motor. 4. Rear gear ratio- the higher numerically the rear ratio, the faster it revs, the faster it needs air. Many would say RPM operating range. However, when you tell me the above, I will know the operational range of the engine. I ran a 700 Holley 4150, a quadraject, a 650, and a 750 holley, both vacuum and mechanical secondaries on my 1976 Pontiac 400. They all ran about the same. There is no real hp to be gained here. Power is in cam and heads. I think if you are looking for an aftermarket intake you are preparing to waste $400. It will run slower with any aftermarket intake up to at least 500hp than a factory 1968-1972 IRON intake even considering the difference in weight! I spent the $ on the dyno to prove it. My 469 made 500 hp, 577tq with the factory intake, 10 hp more than a performer rpm, performer, torker, etc... Give me more engine details like the cam specs. A lumpy cam could be a worn out factory lp cam or a hot solid roller with 250 at .050 duration. What are your performance goals of the car and how much money would you spend to get there? Ive been thru a lot of combos, and can likely give yo some insight of the things you really need to get there. Teaser> intake changes, ignition changes, rocker arm changes, carb changes, and chrome do not produce results. Heads, Cam, Cubes, Compression. Oh, I have numerous pontiac aftermarket manifolds for sale if the above sound like BS.

Pontiacs don't have oval exhaust ports, chevys do, just FYI they are round port heads even if they look oval to you. Why do you need long tube headers? Are you missing the constant leaking, collector ground scraping, high engine underwood heat, and hours spent changing the constantly blown gaskets? Our RA manifolds don't leak and only make 500hp. Sounds like they didn't bell the pipe out correctly.

Check the oil, is it overfilled now? If so, drain it. Is it running hot? White smoke is typically steam, ie blown head gasket. Has it gotten hot recently? It only takes one time to warp the head or blow the head gasket.

I suspect you have it wired backwards. pos to neg, neg to pos. Give a photo of it, brand and model number. There are thousands of oil pressure gauges.