69 Custom s guy

Ok I get it.. I'll do that then...thanks

so Indian are you talking about putting a product like Iso-Heat in the crankcase and spinning the pump? Thats gonna suck because I just installed a new cam/lifters with all the assembly lube and I would think that would wash everything down.

Ok Thanks, I flushed it again today as when I disassembled my contraption there was more rusty water, I suppose I will never get it all so now on to assembly. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go...Thanks for all the replies.

thanks for all your advice guys, i did wind up using an old Al. manifold however it did leak a bit but was able to flush the system both directions plus recirculated some Gunk Rust treatment thru the block for a few hours. The water was rusty at first but after more flushing it came out clean! Next up to remove any water that may have got into the oil passages and oil pan. I flushed the heater core with hot water as well and it too came out clear. And Radiator is next So I think I'm ready to move on. BTW, any advise on how to evacuate any water that may have entered the oil passages? compressed air? Thanks again,

I've got an engine that is full of 35 year old rusty water/coolant and I'm looking to flush clean while still intact in the car but I don't want to run it thru my new water pump and intake if possible. I've fabricated a couple fittings for a hose connections at the front (see arrows on drawing) and was thinking of either, attaching the intake or fabbing up some fittings for the heads. With this setup I feel that I could power flush with an air pressure/water combo and maybe even use a pump to circulate a rust removal product throughout the block to loosen the crap up further. Does anybody see a problem or any issues with this contraption? Should this work? I'm sure I wont get all of the crap out but I feel any little bit would help.

I've got an engine that is full of 35 year old rusty water/coolant and I'm looking to flush clean while still intact in the car but I don't want to run it thru my new water pump and intake if possible. I've fabricated a couple fittings for a hose connections at the front (see arrows on drawing) and was thinking of either, attaching the intake or fabbing up some fittings for the heads. With this setup I feel that I could power flush with an air pressure/water combo and maybe even use a pump to circulate a rust removal product throughout the block to loosen the crap up further. Does anybody see a problem or any issues with this contraption? I'm sure I wont get all of the crap out but I feel any little bit would help. P.S. I've got the heater hose nipple plugged at the block.

I'm about to install a new cam in my '69, 350, my question is regarding priming the oil system. I hear of people spinning the pump using an old disassembled dist. housing and shaft. I guess heres the question; can you just make a rod with an end that will fit into the pump shaft and use a drill? Or do I need that dist. housing to seat into the block in order to get a prime throughout the valvetrain?

Yeah you'll hear from me from more than less me thinks. Its a 350 block switched over to a 4bbl.QJ, I'm about to install a smaller cam than the one I put in 30yrs ago. (way to bumpy) Funny thing here, when I started the grillwork project , I just bought a tool cage panel but in hindsight I could of cut diagonally to get the diamond look Brilliant

Hey gang, a newby here, but have been a Poncho guy for close to 40 yrs. now. I put a 69 Tempest Custom S to bed about 30 yrs ago and never touched until now. It needs alot of work but now that the kids are gone it time to wake her up again. You'll be seeing more from me asking for advise. Thanks for the invite btw. PS please don't bash the square headlights setup. I'm a welder and fabricated them from a 99 sunbird. I like the design but trying to figure out a decent grill design, maybe a floating tubular grill. I have the original headlight buckets and may go back to that but would need original grill pieces.