TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Hate the wheels....Like the car.......

Perhaps we were all beamed up to another alternative dimension....And both the photos are correct..... Star Trek...Episode..#33....Mirror Mirror...Oct.1967....

The way to positively.....ID a 1980 pace car.....The second digit in the VIN....Will be an X.... 2W87TAN100001 2= Pontiac 2nd digit=Firebird body series (S= base...T= Esprit.....U= Formula...W= Trans Am....X= Indy Pace car)... 87 = 2 door coupe... T= engine code...(A=3.8....W= 4.9....Y= 4.9....T= 4.9 turbo....H = 5.0)... A= model year...1980.. N = Assembly plant...(N= Norwood....L = Van Nuys 100001= sequence number... The 4.9 turbo charged engine was NOT Available in California.....and used one of the other two 4.9s...( One of the 4.9s and the 4.9 turbo were 49 state engines....and the other one was used in California only.... Not sure which one is which )...It's possible but unlikely that the 5.0 (LG4) could have been used in California pace cars also.....There were no manual transmission.... Firebirds and/ or Trans Ams made in1980.... The pace car decals..... Indy or ( Daytona 1981).....Came separately in the trunk....With the cars and could be dealer installed....If so desired by the owner.... Hope this helps you out.....Welcome to the site...

The Opti Spark on a LT1 can be troublesome Especially the unvented units 1994 and earlier....Before you rush out and buy one...Pull the cap off of it and look at it real close 3 or 4 different times in different kinds of light ...Inside and out...Use a magnifying glass if necessary.....Pay special attention to the area around where the coil wire plugs into the cap and the area around where the wire harness plugs into it....Alot of times a hairline crack will develop in those areas and can be almost impossible too detect and/or see...And will cause intermittent drivability issues....Also pay close attention to the coil wire itself on the end where it plugs into the unit...Make sure it is not dry rotted and/or brittle.....One other thing while the cap is off make sure that it is absolutely clean inside the unit...Have seen some with little flecks of some sort minuscule crap inside that would move around occasionly with the rotor and briefly interrupt the signal between the optic laser light sensor and the optic disc...Anyway look closely at those things first... If you do wind up replacing the whole unit....Spend the extra money and get an OEM AC Delco part..... Stay away from Auto parts store Chinese stuff...Also if I'm not mistaken MSD makes a kit (or used to) that allows you convert an unvented unit to a vented one....

Welcome to the site great looking old wagon... Noticed you said that the straight 8 engine was seized up.....Was it seized due to a mechanical failure or just rusted (rings to the bores..possibly from moisture over the years...??) The reason I ask is....Years ago my dad came up with an old Cadillac (1949) that had been sitting in an old shed for years and the engine was locked up...So what we did was use a process called electrolysis...Basically what we did was reverse the oxidation process using a car battery and charger and an electrolyte made out of water and washing soda (sodium bicarbonate) If I remember correctly he used right at one tablespoon of washing soda to one gallon of water...So we pulled the engine out of the car and removed the intake manifold..valve covers...water pump...oil pan.... timing cover ... freeze plugs ETC...Then submerged the engine in a plastic kids wading pool large enough to completely get the whole engine underwater then added the washing soda to the water and mixed it up really good so as to be sure it did not clump up....Then from the 12 volt car battery using jumper cables hooked the ground to the engine block which turned it into a cathode....Then we used a piece of steel rebar as an anode which we hooked the positive cable to the hot side of the battery then submerged the rebar in the solution placing it real close to but not touching the engine block with about 6 inches or so sticking up above the water level where the positive lead was hooked to....The rebar will be consumed during the process so you would need to keep an eye on it and replace as necessary...so that the positive cable does not become submerged into the electrolyte solution...It is a slow process took about three weeks to clean and derust the Caddy engine...It worked really well and when it was done...We rolled it over by hand with very little effort...The black powder residue that was left on the engine came right off with stiff brush...Then the engine was quite easily disassembled any wearable parts replaced reinstalled in the car and was driven across country to Seattle from North Carolina and back with no issues.....I am sure that I have missed a few details as this was 30 some years ago..... Electrolysis Might be something worthwhile to check into if you want to reuse the original engine......Good luck with your project and keep us posted..... TLBT

As the owner of a rare Pontiac myself...... I'm a realist and know that rare also means.... Unpopular and/or Undesirable.....Which in the car world means it's not really worth anything except to maybe a very very narrow group of people if at all.....Bottom line is...It's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it and how bad they want it.....Don't see that car as being anywhere close to being $95000.00 desirable.....

Welcome to the sight...Really dig the wagons....

Damn that sucks....At least if you're going to have a failure it's better to be close to home rather than 500 miles away.....When the water pump belt came off it probably heated up quickly and you noticed it in a fairly short order.....Pontiac engines are pretty resilient and tough....So more than likely the engine will be OK...Once all the belts are reinstalled and properly aligned.....Enjoy the rest of your trip...... One other thing....If the Hatfields and the Mcoys decide to start feuding again while you're there....Align yourself with the Hatfields as they are distant cousins of Mrs. Two Lane.......

Welcome.... Dig the flames...

Having another beautiful N.C weekend .....Just put an engine (4.155 bore....3.48 stroke with 5.7 rods = 377 CID) together for one of my friend's truck .....Built the 377 instead of a 383 just to be different......Also first one that I have built with this combination .....First startup after installation....Hope to surprise a few unsuspecting individuals once we get it quieted down and play with the tuning a little bit.....Now it's Miller time... 20190922_145657.mp4

Really like the wagon...Very cool....

Every dog has its day....Sooner or later......Karma has a way of sneaking up....When you least expect it......

Didn't know Kroeger was still around....Used to be my favorite store.....They all disappeared from around here 20 plus years ago.....

$2.21 For regular unleaded here in the Winston Salem area...Of course diesel and 93 octane are considerably more expensive.....As much as 30 to 40 cents per gallon......

It might run.....But not like it's supposed too.....Will be in a constant open loop...and will have the check engine light on...As the MAF sensor will and the oxygen sensors will not be talking to each other and will be in a constant cold start mode and running on the factory cold start parameters and at the very least....Will probably idle really crappy and run super rich....among several other issues......Would highly recommend putting a bung in the in the exhaust pipe and reinstalling the O2 sensor in the proper location.....Can always plug it off later......

Would check to make sure that you don't have a break in wire somewhere in the wiring harness....Or a bad ground......This may sound crazy but do you have the correct bulbs...? Supposed to be a dual filament bulb....One filament for the stop/turn and one for running lights....Pretty sure it is a 1034 bulb or maybe an 1157.....

Is it only the high speed fan setting not working..?? If that's the case..There is a seperate fuse that is used for only the high blower setting.....Located in an inline fuse holder under the hood along the firewall...Can be hard to spot....Usually hidden in the wire harness that runs along the firewall....Might be worth checking to make sure it is not blown......

Am wanting to change the very troublesome and unreliable power windows in my 1996 Firebird over to manual crank windows...Should be a straight forward swap..The main issue is trying locate all of the correct parts....As very few of those cars (4th gen ) were equipped with manual windows...Actually I Have only seen one (1) that didn't have them and it's a 1LE car...Was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on where to source the parts (internal and external) to do the change....Any input or thoughts would be welcomed......

Have seen quite a few catastrophic mechanical failures through the years...Never anything like that.... Glad everything turned out OK....No one injured and nothing torn up....

The lifters should measure 2.00 tall and .842 diameter...it's the same size as a Chevy lifter....The pontiac specific lifter has the oil hole closer to the top of the lifter than the Chevy does so the oil hole in the lifter doesn't drop out of the bottom of lifter bore when using a cam with a small base circle....Usually when you get the cam and lifters as a kit the lifters should already matched to the base circle of the cam..Just something to be aware of... Even though you soaked the lifters for a couple of days in the oil..would still preoil the engine just to make sure that the lifters are indeed pumped up good and tight....Can make an oiling tool out of an old distributor shaft...just be sure that you turn the oil pump counter clockwise....Back the rockers all the way off but still just tight enough to where the lifters stay seated on the cam lobes first before pumping them up...Try that first...Then readjust the valves...See what happens before getting different pushrods.....And then go from there......

Good choice...Hard to go wrong with a Pontiac rally wheel.....

Sorry didn't even cross my mind to do so...... Truth be told.... I'm almost too lazy to even carry my phone around...let alone take photos..Will try to do better when I go back in September....

Thanks for the input guys..Will more than likely try the Mobil one....

Are you running hydraulic lifters..?? If so did you preoil the engine to be sure that the lifters are fully pumped up....Are the pushrods the proper length to match up with the cam -n- lifter combo that you're running..?? The ratio of the rockers should be marked somewhere on them.....

10W40 works well with the hot summertime temps....