Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!

Tired of these Ads? Register Today!

Pontiac of the Month

360Rocket's 1970 GTO

2019 March
of the Month

TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Plus Members
  • Content Count

    338
  • Avg. Content Per Day

    0
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    28

TWO LANE BLACK TOP last won the day on March 2

TWO LANE BLACK TOP had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

98 Excellent

2 Followers

About TWO LANE BLACK TOP

  • Rank
    Century Club
  • Birthday 09/07/1961

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    kenithmcintosh97@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Hot Rod cars motorcycles engine building Anything mechanical . Jack of all trades .Custom Fabrication ,welding ,Machine work . Firm believer anything can be fixed . Navy veteran. Do everything from fixing carburetors to AM FM broadcast and cellular phone towers . Have owned several Pontiacs thru the years.Currently own 1996 Firebird and 1997 firebird Formula that I bought new.

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Kenith McIntosh
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    1997
  • Car
    firebird formula WS6
  • Trim
    1LE
  • Engine
    LT1
  • Style
    Coupe
  • Color
    bright red

Recent Profile Visitors

3,736 profile views
  1. Yes you can run a breather instead of a PCV in the valve cover.. Might have to zip tie a rag around it so you don't wind up with oily film all over everything under the hood... Just out of curiosity what are the cam specs..does it have a lot of overlap..?? Would suggest opening the spark plug gap to .045 with the HEI... Have cut this short ......Wife just got home....Will elaborate more on timing in a couple hours.....
  2. Back in 2012 was building an engine and used a custom grind solid roller from Comp Cams (260 duration @.50..with a 770 lift...109° lobe seperation) as we had been using Comp Cams for years in everything we built with no issues...(we were actually an authorized dealer)..Did everything we normally do when breaking in an engine..Wiped out the cam within the first minute of the initial start up...Upon inspection. We concluded that the lobes weren't hardened like they should have been...Called them up told them what the deal was then sent it back to them...They ground us another one...Again the same issue wiped out almost immediately...Long story short...Went through 3 of them before we got one that worked like it is supposed to...With the spring package that we always use.....Wasn't long after that they called us and said if they were going to warranty their cams anymore... We couldn't use the valve spring package we normally used and to use way weaker springs for the initial run in....Since then whenever we're using a really radical profile in a high dollar race engine we will use the weak springs for the cam break in...However in a run of the mill street engine we will use the valve springs that we are actually going run...Because as Pontiaction eluded to.. It is a pain in the ass to reinstall them on an assembled engine.... Have not had any cam issues since and still use them (Comp Cams) today..and will continue to use them......
  3. Some builders do and some builders don't......Realistically the best thing to do is contact Comp cams and do what they reccomend......
  4. First thing is to make sure that all the battery connections are clean and tight and has a good ground....If all that checks OK then check the connections at the starter solenoid...Look for bad or corroded connections broken wires ETC.. Use a 12 volt test light to verify that you actually have power to the solenoid....should have 12 volts on the main battery terminal on the solenoid all the time....if you have power there then take the test light and ground it to the engine block... Place the other end on the solenoid terminal with the small wires (the S terminal)...have someone turn the key to start the engine if it lights up that means that the switch is functioning correctly....If it does not light up that means the the problem could be the ignition switch itself...Next thing is to put the test light across both the small poles (on the solenoid) have someone try to start the engine again... the light should come on...If it doesn't that indicates a bad solenoid....if all that checks OK.....Then the issue is probably the starter motor....Since it has been sitting for years...the brushes might be sticking..If that is the case sometimes you can take a hammer and lightly tap on the starter to see if they free up...(Will probably be full of corrosion) then try to start again....(Try it a few times) If that doesn't work you will have to remove the starter and either replace it or disassemble it and repair It....(is a repairable/rebuildable unit)....... If you do get the engine to roll over....Would highly suggest that you take the fuel line from the tank to the inlet on the fuel pump loose and run a short hose from a seperate clean container with fresh gas to the inlet of the fuel pump so when it does start you don't suck 30 years worth of crap from the gas tank into the carburetor.......
  5. We (My dad,My brother and I) Gave my 6 year old nephew a tool set and an old completely disassembled ..(Even had the freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs out of it.... distributor and carburetor were completely disassembled too... pistons separated from the rods..etc.. and all the parts thrown into one box)... 348 Chevy engine and a 1958 GM shop manual for Christmas that year(1997).....Over a period of about 3 years..He managed to get it reassembled correctly and make it run with very minimal help from us..( loved it and still says it was the best gift he ever got) ..Went on to graduate top of his class at UTI and is now a very successful mechanic for Duke Energy.......
  6. Have raced circle track (NASCAR Modifieds) a few times in sub freezing weather....takes a few extra green flag laps to get the tires hot but once you get some heat in the tires it's business as usual...The hardest part is figuring out the starting air pressure in the tires to keep the stagger correct as the tires heat up......The engines love the cold air and make some really good power.......as opposed to an 85° 90% humidity...Saturday night.....
  7. Wrongway Is this what you are looking for..??...Hope this helps... Let me know.....
  8. The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column at the bottom toward the floor...and is activated by the locking rod coming down from the key /lock cylinder..Might have to drop the steering column down to access it... The only wires that run inside the column up toward the steering wheel key/lock cylinder would be for the key buzzer ,horn and the turn signals...All the power wires for the starting system will be plugged in at that switch at the bottom.....
  9. Haven't forgotten Ya'll expecting my AC manual today.....
  10. Spoke to a family member of mine a little while ago...Who has the actual (not a reprint) GM 1963 pontiac Air Conditioning manual...Covers all the Pontiac models for that specific year..and is very detailed... Lives in Seattle and is going to ship it to me ASAP...I should have it here in a couple days....
  11. The red inner fenders were used (but not always) in the GM A body cars with the top engine options....Like a W30.. 442 olds or a Ram Air GTO..Stage 1 GS Buick..Etc..
  12. Glad to here everything is working as it should..... The main battery terminal on the back of the alternator is supposed to be hot all the time and should show the same voltage as the battery even when everything is turned off...As that wire goes directly via a junction block with no interruption to the battery.....The diodes in the alternator act like a one way gate and they keep the battery power contained...from feeding back through the whole electrical system and killing the battery when everything is turned off.... The test you performed when you put the test light between the ground cable and the negative post on the battery is one way to confirm if the diodes in the alternator are working correctly and not backfeeding thru the system and killing the battery...had the light came on when you did that it would have indicated an unwanted power draw in the system ( like maybe the glove compartment light staying on all the time or something) and or a bad diode in the alternator..... On newer cars though...They are designed to have a very slight power draw....When everything is turned off....For the radio memory...Clock...PCM etc...
  13. It appears to me looking at the schematic that the F terminal on the regulator does connect to the F terminal on the alternator....The #3 terminal on the regulator runs through the ignition switch...and would be hot with the key turned on...The #4 terminal is used on cars with a radio.... A condenser is connected to #4 and is not used if there is no condenser.....this is the diagram hope you can see it clearly
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.