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Pontiac of the Month

Shakercars's 1972 Trans Am

2019 August
of the Month

Last Indian

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Everything posted by Last Indian

  1. JustA as a point fact. I doubt that the booster is harmed. You could, and I would clearly understand why you would prefer not to, reassemble the unit and stake the outer cover back on correctly. If for any reason you decide to do that and you want some input let me know!
  2. Lynn, good news/bad news! If you’re using synthetic oil for the single purpose of viscosity and no other, then 7 to 12 thousand miles is reasonable? Yet I doubt that is your reason and if it is why? The only advantage a synthetic oil offers is constant viscosity or what we in the business call, shear stable. At the end of the day a synthetic oil has no more additives in it than a conventional oil! It has no ability to reduce acid in the oil due to combustion. It can’t be cleaner from particulates than conventional oil or any other oil related degradation that occurs! Just constant viscosity! In an engine with variable valve timing or the like shear stability is important, that’s about it! A good filter and a good oil at 4000 miles are pretty much done. The more miles on an engine reduces that number incrementally. There is nothing wrong with a synthetic oil, in fact, if used just like a conventional oil, it’s better! But then that’s a pretty expensive oil change. I run full synthetics in my variable valve timing Buick, but I change the oil every 3500 to 4000 miles.
  3. Glade you’re OK Joe! Things like that have a way of making you appreciate what’s important! looking at the pictures below it appears they never staked the outer housing locks! Those are supposed to be indent flattened behind the protruding spare of the inner housing to keep the unit together. Their not, or so it appears.
  4. Hey Joe! That’s a song! Great job! Ok anyway, you may have them already and I just didn’t see, but a couple things. First, yah the prop valve looks close to the header tube, that would be a pain! You might want to see how hot the prop valve and lines get as a result of that proximity. It might affect fluid performance if it gets too hot. Also, you say low vac motor, so I assume power brakes? if you don’t have one, you could get a vac canister. That will help. Also you could change the master cylinder to a larger bore unit. That will move more fluid which builds more psi quicker, but requires more leg effort. Additionally, even more work, you can change the pedal ratio, which gives you a bigger mechanical advantage over fluid movement.
  5. Well I finally got a few hours to start the back bumper cover work. First, the area where the cuts were made needed to be contoured to the basic alignment of the original lines of the cover. Then I needed to make an insert piece to fill the large hole and then do the body work. Right side after cut & reconnected. Left side after trimmed & blended using heat. Sanded & ready for insert. I found this to be a little ironic. The image below to a degree resembles a feather! This is a embossed blemish in the new back bumper cover of the Indian. Which is in the area behind where the rear license plate will sit.🤔
  6. Ahh, the days of moving the kid in & out of college! I remember them well! I feel very sorry for you 😔! Well at least you new toys to play with next week!😁
  7. Great job guys! Beautiful car 4 bucket!
  8. I see the resemblance! Especially the hat! 😂
  9. Well they look great Frosty! JustA don’t go clicking Lucy’s shoes together!
  10. It would appear somebody is having Christmas year around! Open a box here open a box there! I’m thinking the Grinch didn’t steal Christmas!! Cuz you had all the gifts!
  11. Gonna be killer buddy! JustA about any 5 spoke dresses a car better than other wheels. Those are a great choice.
  12. I love Alice! I was 18 when he release that album and I was always a metal head! I love Desperado. Detroit turned out a lot of great s- - t & not just cars!
  13. Ok, finished product. The first picture is that of the rear deck lid emblem! This second picture is of the flat non-3D Indian head. This is attached to the under hood fuse block panels cover.
  14. Two lane, finally got the specs! See attachments. if you need me to scan them and put them into a pdf let me know!
  15. This section will pertain to a functional assembly, the top bearing assembly for MacPherson struts. This assembly is actually one of the many weak links of this system. Why? Well first off the load pieces, (the races) are plastic! As are the lower spring perch part that carries the lower race & the upper locator part that carriers the upper race and locates the assembly on the rubber strut isolator bushing. Secondly for the multi faceted purpose they serve, the ball bearings are almost always to small! This type of bearing is a thrust bearing, but they actually carry as much lateral shear force as they do thrust! Which means they actually need to perform as both a thrust & an axial bearing So these to a lesser degree than the lower control arm of this system, but still enough, contribute to poor handling at best & at worst, torque steer, which can get you in serious trouble! So I set out to remedy that & make my own setup. To do so I started with the perimeters that I wanted the car to perform to. Car weight, down force in g’s, lateral force in g’s & weight transfer, moment of inertia, CG & RC, stack up height, O.D. size & durability. Plus the bearing also had to be capable of handling both thrust & axial loads. This led me to an industrial thrust bearing, an NSK 51118. The NSK 51118 off of Amazon cost $87 each, you can buy a complete Monroe quick strut for $84 & the quick strut is the strut, spring and all the bearing components, JustA put it in and done. This is the stock strut bearing, plastic races with uncaged 1/8 diameter ball bearings. This is the NSK 51118 bearing. High grade hardened steel races, caged 5/16 diameter ball bearings. Above is the machined aluminum housing to retain the lower bearing race, which also has the spring isolator on the bottom side. Below is the aluminum housing by itself. This is a lathe machined part. Below is the upper race shield that retains the upper race & shields the bearing from debris and water. Below is the assembly, as you can see the bearing is quite well protected. Where as the OEM is a much more open assembly which allows a greater amount of water & debris in. All of these parts can be made on a lathe or you can always take your specs to a shop and have them made!
  16. Well back to the head! First I’m going to cut in the 3D face detail that will give the high cheekbone look as well as the eye, nose, mouth & jaw detail. Then I’ll cut in the head side feathers to be inset in copper. machining in the face/jaw detail Adding head feathers Next up, finish and polish!
  17. Two Lane, I’m not sure you’re aware, but I’m retired. So I still go into work here and there. That said, I called my buddy there since when I was in last week the server was down as I had said. I asked him to lookup the specs, if the server was back up. He did, and says there’s no difference in any of the models from “95” up in that gen. He did print it out as well! I’m due to go in Wednesday so I’ll pick up the specs then, copy them and attach them here then.
  18. You guys are hilarious! Detailing the feathers is very painstaking & tedious! This takes a strong grip and durable fingers. If you haven’t done this kind of work before, be aware there will be some discomfort during, but mostly after! Here you will see the center quill line (hollow shaft (calamus), be carved in using the three corner file I showed earlier. This file, if you noticed is ground into a three corner point. The cutting tool acts as a shaping tool, cutting metal like an shaping machine, only by hand. Then you will see the individual (barb) of the feather be carved in, as well as the detail to the Mohawk style headdress on top. notice the now rounded neck. Notice the upper feathers have been detailed with the quill line as well as the barb. The lower feathers have only been detailed with the quill so far.
  19. Now I’ll start to turn this emblem into more of a 3 dimensional one by machining the body headdress & feathers into separate layers. Adding this dimension should give a greater differentiation of look to the body versus the head. Again this work requires a mill. It would be very difficult to accomplish this look any other way. Still the previous page of a non inset head use a flat body! Next up, detailing the feathers & the rest of the body!
  20. Thanks Joe! Great job you’re doing with the install of the rear axle! Should make a nice improvement for you!
  21. Once the body is machined for the inset of the head I need to finish it by refining the fit by picking & smoothing the inner lip of the body & refining the profile of the head. This is to make as homogeneous, seemingly one piece emblem as I can. These two three sided files do a large amount of my detail work. These are what I used to pick and smooth the inner lip of the body. I also use them to carve, cut & a multitude of other detail, like cutting in the feathers on the body, which you will see a little later.
  22. Hey buddy, you are to kind, no secret, JustA old school! Here is an example of the emblem without insetting the head. You’ll need to drill clearance holes in the body while drill & tapping the head. Countersink the clearance holes & use countersink screws. This will attach the head to the body, securing it in place. This same method is use for the inset head as well.
  23. Now I need to cut out these pieces. For that you’ll need preferably a band saw, but you could use a hacksaw. If you like you can even build your own bandsaw as I did. It’s relatively cheap and quite easy. In either case you will need to cut larger than the line so they can be shaped and sized. This will be done with good old fashion files. A good assortment of files from large bastard files to tiny jewel maker files should always be part of your tool catalog. This is just a sample of my files, I have over 200 files for every size shape and configuration. You will also need a card file for cleaning your files. Once your parts are cut out it’s time to start shaping and detailing them. Once I have the basic shape filed into the body I need to machine the area where the head will be inserted. The purpose of this work is to start giving this emblem more of a 3D look when finished as well as more of an old style emblem. This work needs a mill and there’s really no other way to do it, but You don’t have to inset the head you can simply set it on top of the body and attach it, as I will show in the next segment.
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