Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

Shakercars's 1972 Trans Am

2019 August
of the Month

Last Indian

Members
  • Content Count

    637
  • Avg. Content Per Day

    1
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    59

Everything posted by Last Indian

  1. A couple things as a little FYI. One other thing that works really well is Happich Simichrome and a very soft cloth, followed up with Meguiars Ultimate polish. But, since you have done some restoration to the lens one other thing you might consider is getting some Black Magic tire wet and apply this the the lens. This product is basically silicone. Apply a thin coat and just leave it to dry, which it really won’t dry very well. After a day wipe and buff and reapply. After 3 or 4 applications you may notice a decrease in any hazing that was still there. Then every few weeks always apply a wipe coat to both headlights, this will help kept them clear. It’s also great for door and trunk weatherstripping.
  2. What Frosty said! And pictures please!
  3. Hey buddy! Pictures please! Another one of my many projects over my 40 years with LZ was a live axle test for GM, Ford & Chrysler. This was were we built rear axles put them in a car and ran them to test limited slip or in the day positraction. In the beginning of the design there were some challenges to say the least. Many things make using an open diff for the purpose of two wheel hookup challenging and rewarding. In general you need 300 hp or hookup may be hard to achieve. You need to know how and what to blueprint for the rear diff, I.E. balance the spider gears and shims as an example. You need to know how to limit axle housing rotation to effect hookup, while tying the axle to the body without limiting the rest of it movement. Leaf spring suspension lend better to this than coil, but both can be done. Also in this particular build drive shaft design will play a role in success. If you look through the internet you’ll find a few folks who have done it. Most people thought prefer to just keep replacing the carrier.
  4. Well, I have to disagree a little, sorry! A positraction rear end and a limited slip are very close to the same animal for GM, with one difference. GM’s positraction sends almost all of its power to the wheel with out slippage. No slippage full power to both wheels. GM’s limited slip on the other hand only increases power to the better drive wheel in the case of slippage by a much smaller percentage. This has to do with cornering logic & how inside & outside wheel speeds come into play. In the end both will give you two black tire marks only if the suspension is setup relatively correct. That said so will an open rear end! I’ve said this before! An open rear end will lay two black patches just as well as any, if the suspension is setup right! The purpose of positraction or limited slip is not for burnouts! In actuality that is the fastest way to break a posi or limited slip rear end! If you’re looking just for burnout performance!? Put the money into the suspension & a blueprinted open rear end!
  5. That would be my guess! I’ve seen it before. That tweek on the drum pulls the shoes or shoe, which pops the spring or adjuster enough to move it out of position. That is why I always use either a gasket between my wheels and the rotor or drum whichever the case may be or anti-seize, painted on the surface of the rotor or drum where the wheel hits, even on the locating hub. It also helps to stop the dielectric action of the dissimilar metals from causing corrosion.
  6. Well looky looky! Ain’t them niiice! Have a Frosty one on me!! That’s why you should always carry a boat anchor. On the serious side, did the old wheels stick to the drum at all when you removed them.
  7. Food for thought! Here’s the problem with honing. A typical drill operated hone only follows what’s there, I.E. taper, out of round etc. than it amplifies it. You might get lucky, but if not than you’ll have to bore bigger than you might if you started with a block honing machine. If you start with a block honing machine first you may be able to hold the new bore to .010. Giving you just the .040 over.
  8. Exactly what I ran on the Z, except I ran Kelley’s back than! With a double wishbone and a straight axle they give a great ride & handle great as well!
  9. Curtis, just in case you’re unaware, you can buy oversized piston rings in incremental sizes, .003, .005 etc., but you’re going to have to dismantle the engine to hone it. In the end a bare block hauled to a shop and new pistons and rings may be the better choice. Honing can be tricky when it comes to true roundness and a straight bore! More often than not anything more than glaze busting will leave a block out of round and tapered.
  10. Well it was a perfect day to paint! Now I JustA need to wet sand and rub it out! Then back to the splitter work to get that finished after the mods I made!
  11. Well moving ever so slowly, between weather and other demands, but made some progress. Getting fairly close to painting the bc/cc soon, I hope!
  12. Lyon, as much as all of us would love to see Pontiacs return, I have to agree with the others! It’s never going to happen for all, not just one, but all the reasons mentioned and then some! GM has no vested interest in a brand other than profit! In the past, great executives made decisions based on vision, profit, growth and instinct! Very few of today’s executives have vision or instincts, sad but true! More often then not they rise to the top for reasons that have little to do running that particular company. For a long time now companies take people who are great at their positions and put them in other areas unrelated to any of their gifted talents. All because they need to grow their people! That’s just plain stupid! That among many other things has caused the demise of American manufacturing, and Pontiac was part of that! Then there is the whole never admitting of making the wrong decision!!
  13. Joe, I’ll do my best to explain this in fare detail, but anything that I’m lacking please ask. When I built the brake system for my Z I spent about 2 months doing research on function and materials. I then spent an other 3 months designing the system, doing the math etc. In the end I realized that there were things in a car braking system that made no sense. It may just be my opinion, but there are proven facts that support this. Why would you need a proportioning valve on a 4 wheel disc brake system, when the master cylinder stages the fluid appropriately? Why would anyone use a square cut O’ring to seal hydraulic fluid? Why would they run an ester based fluid as a hydraulic fluid? And why in all that is logical in physics would you run similar materials against each other? So in the case of the Z, I ran a much larger bore master cylinder as I said. I went from a 7/8” diameter piston to a 1.1875 or 1.25, as I said, I don’t remember which. I built my own calipers in the beginning, but I eventually moved to 4 of GM’s 2 15/16 diameter single piston caliper for ease of replacement parts if I ever needed them. Still these were modified, but not so much so that replacement parts were ever to be an issue. These are the calipers that you may be running. They were the standard for more that two decades. The standard pistons were plated and had a series of lines from top to bottom, made no sense! My modifications to this caliper were as follows. I made my own pistons out of stainless steel (304) and I would polish them to a high luster. I changed the O’rings to a standard Viton O’ring with dimension that correlated to the square cut part GM used. I also replaced the problematic caliper bolts these bolts are plated steel. Once you apply heat, water, acidic brake dust and in some cases road salt, but not necessary to activate corrosion and then add a Allen wrench embossed removal source and good luck with easy removal! I made stainless steel pieces with 9/16 hex. This made removal a piece of cake. Likewise fluid is a key factor as I.E. can make a huge impact on performance. If you would like any more info let me know! Similar work was done to the Indian. As a result it is nearly impossible to get the ABS system to activate because the car just stops before the wheels lockup. Only on very smooth roads in very wet weather does the ABS come on and only for a second. Below is the brake caliper design I did for the Z. This was a full floating caliper that was set in double shear.
  14. Joe, assisted brakes are great & I understand the desire & the convenience of them. But some food for thought is this. My Z pulled 4” of vacuum in gear at idle! So vacuum assisted brakes were never an option for me. So I set out to design a system that would out perform a power system. Something along those lines might work for you as well. I used a Corvette master cylinder that had an 1 1/8 or 1 / 3/16 bore, it’s been to long now to remember which one, as both existed. I ran no proportioning valve, I removed all the residual pressure check valves. I did some mods to the calipers, but I don’t think you would like to do them. I also changed the mechanical advantage of the pedal, as I indicated earlier. I ended up making my own pedal. In doing so I made the pedal 1” longer from the master cylinder push rod down to the end of the pedal & I shortened the pivot end of the pedal to the push rod 1/2”. That may not sound like much, but that increased pedal to fluid pressure by about 500 psi. If you look close at the brake pedal in this picture of my wrecked Z (1977) you can see the stock steel pedal. In the picture below is the corvette master cylinder (1980) In this picture below if you look you can see the new brake pedal made to change the mechanical advantage. It is aluminum.
  15. For sure JustA! I would sit with my daughter and watch speed buggy, Scooby-Doo and the like! Good memories!
  16. Copy that! We can all live a cat! Their so good now they don’t affect exhaust flow at all. Some of the high flow ones like I run on the Indian actually improve the flow dynamics of the exhaust.
  17. That’s hysterical! The guys got more time wrapped up in that then just buying a switch! I mean really! Thanks for sharing! It does work, but it’s still crazy!!
  18. The P0420 code indicates that most likely the cat is gone! Code be an O2, but usually it’s the cat. It doesn’t sound plugged by your description of performance, but as time goes on it most likely will. Unless the cores been knock out?
  19. Lots of things poison a cat! Even engine oil! If you don’t have to go through an emissions test where you live it’s a non issue whether the cat works or not. The only thing that will occur, but more from burning oil than ZDDP poisonings, is a loss in power. If you don’t notice a loss in power don’t worry about it. Likewise if it was bad it would set a code.
  20. Lynn, this is a little engine oils 101, and as a rule it’s pretty straight forward. I worked in this field for 40 years in R&D. Please take this as it’s given, just as informative information to digest. All oils, synthetic & conventional, go through the same oxidative stress. All start at the same TBN 9-15 depending on mfg & type. All are depleted of the TBN by combustion which produces soot, even in a gas engine & causes TAN, that acid cause oxidation, which in turn causes etching and erosion of metal parts. Which in turn causes particulate in the oil which in turn causes more oxidative stress due to more heat from particles running into each other when pushed through small orifice. In the end this is called bulk viscosity, and has a small effect on small orifice areas like modern engines small bearing clearances & VVT components. Which is why maintaining oil viscosity is important and why synthetic oil is appealing. Additionally there is oil shear. This occurs when oil is literally pushed in two different directions by two opposing surfaces, like a engine main bearing stationary and a rotating crank. This shearing action initially thins the oil viscosity within the first 1000 miles or so, but than it slowly thickens, but synthetic oil are resistant to shear. This makes them good for VVT applications. With all that said the issues with this are, long before viscosity becomes an issue for an engine oxidative stress, acid, particulate contamination, fuel dilution, which does lower viscosity even in a synthetic oil become a condemning limit for the oil! Knowing those facts most people won’t pay twice as much for a synthetic oil just to keep the same interval of an oil change! So they push the change interval out farther and no matter how minimal the negative impact is on the engine, it is negative! The STP deal! You said STP oil stabilizer not oil treatment. The stabilizer has no ZDDP or moly, it’s just a viscosity modifier! Which means it thickening your 5w30 synthetic! That basically defeats the purpose of the synthetic oil! The STP oil treatment has ZDDP in it, but that’s bad for the catalytic!
  21. Everyone has their perception as to what something is or does, so if your oil works for you all’s good! Your question was oil change length, I replied 7 to 12 thousand is realistic, but what is your condemning limit? Is it only mileage? There is no definable control as to what synthetic oil is, as was proved in a lawsuit between Mobil & Castrol. Since then API has removed all references to Synthetic in their documentation regarding standards. "Full synthetic" is a marketing term and is not a measurable quality. The only thing that defines quality in an oil, be it synthetic or conventional oil, is the crude oil & components, as well as the additive package. Then std. SAE testing proves the performance of those oils. Most folks have no idea what the true performance of a specific oil is. The two basic advantages in a synthetic oil is shear stability, (constant viscosity) & thermal break down, (elevated temperature), I.E. jet engines! If someone needs thermal break down protection in their car’s engine they have more pressing problems than oil! Thermal break down in an oil starts when the “oil” temperature reaches 375c or 700f. The STP product you mention is basically a viscosity modifier, with possibly ZDDP or moly, but they don’t say. So I have to presume neither and if that’s the case, it’s only a viscosity modifier which basically defeats the purpose of a synthetic oil!
  22. Joe, This video shows what I mean about the staking, as good as me trying to explain it.
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.