Last Indian

Kiwi, It is reasonable to presume that the tranny pan should be parallel to the frame rails, but what is actually more relevant is that the mounting face of the carburetor on the intake manifold be level! This needs to be level! This can only be done accurately when the car is on the ground and the suspension is complete and loaded! I.E. car is basically completed, interior is in, all body panels on, gas tank full or at least approximated with weight, etc.. This is actually a fairly critical measurement as it then will give you the angle of the driveshaft to the differential! Which in turn is relevant, because you need a proper angle within a range to make the universal joints work, but not so great that it causes the driveshaft to whip!

Yeah GM used the choke thing to help speed up engine heat up! Never liked it, never made any real cense! If it fails on the closed position that’s bad, but most of the time they just rust open! Then in time the cross shaft rusts through the shaft tends to fall out and the butterfly plate drops into the exhaust! If you’re lucky it sits parallel in the exhaust pipe, if not, it turns vertical and blocks off the whole exhaust. Long story short, get rid of it! Just drill & tap out the hole on both sides to the next closest size pipe thread and tap it! Get some Stainless Steel pipe plugs and seal them off. Just my two cents!

To all a toast to a Merry Christmas & to all Cruze on!

Now you’re JustA being silly! Finished product! this was the last one!

JustA’s idea should prove good! As he indicates, in this type of bushing the only purpose the steel tube & bolt serve is to contract the bracket sides in against the steel tube! Once torqued the bolt, steel tube & bracket side should be married together. What I would do additionally though is this! Once you press the 9/16 bolt through the sleeve and than back out and replace it with a new bolt, coat the inside of the sleeve with anti-seize & when you install the bolt coat the bolt as well! This is because the bolt and sleeve will have a much closer fit than is typical! That will percipient corrosion between the two more than normal! Which may make it nearly impossible to get apart in a normal manner, if that time ever comes.

Yes & no! It’s not, in most cases anyway, cold roll! Usually it’s a tempered steel, so it’s pretty tough! Meaning a standard drill won’t cut it. Also they are never round, which makes it all the harder to drill!

I don’t like that kind of clearance! IMO you’re JustA asking for trouble! So looking at it I see two remedies! JustA’s idea is a good remedy! I would use at least 1/8” thick washers with a fairly close 1/2” hole, .510 to .515. Then tack weld them in at less three places! The other would be take a grade 8, 9/16 bolt that is long enough that when it goes all the way through the unthreaded part sick’s out past where you would put the nut. The turn down the shaft of the bolt down to .510 to .520. At the head end of the bolt leave a 1/6” wide step that’s .565 to .570. At the other end you will have to thread the new bolt size to 1/2” thread. The machine a special nut the has a step on it to match the .573 bracket hole, but a little smaller. I hope that’s clear as mud! If you need a sketch let me know & I’ll make one! No they did not, but they tended To run soft rear springs with stiff front springs! This made the car sit down in the back which has a stabilizing effect when cornering!

First of all how big is the outside diameter of the inner steel sleeve in the vulcanized rubber? It’s a problem, but not to worry! You can fix it! You need one of two remedies! The simplest is two special washers for each side of the 1/2” bolt. So depending on how large the outer diameter is of the sleeve is will determine what those washers look like! Aarms like other vulcanized bushing need the center steel sleeve clamped to the frame/bracket by the through bolt! This is what make the vulcanized bushing do it’s job! Once you tell me what that O.D. Is I’ll determine what the washer should look like!

Don’t tell Smokey Yunick that! Those cars dominated NASCAR in the day mate!

Well yes it’s winter again! So it’s itch time again. I made the new shift knob a couple years ago now, but it just never grabbed me the way I thought it would so I’m back at it again! First I thought I would do one out of my amber Ultem material! I got about half way through and that JustA didn’t look like I was going to like how it would turn out. So I thought about a different aluminum design! there is an inlay piece that goes into the arrowhead cut out of the aluminum ball knob.

Nothing wrong with a 4 door! Some of the best sleepers are 4 doors! Beware the 4 door that looks mean! It just might be!

You’re right Indyman, that rear tray looks pretty nice ! Let’s see some more pics please!

What Frosty said! I’ve seen that before, but it’s a bad move! It destabilizes the drum, it also puts all the load of the wheel on small contact points that can then tend to warp the face of the drum! If you don’t want the drum face to stick to the hub or the center cone that houses the wheel bearings you use a painted on thin layer of anti-seize!

I’m thinking Pontiac should sue for trademark violations!😁

I voted buddy!😃

It would take some modifications and what that would require I can’t say. But the actuator on my 2000 Grand Prix would most likely work, if modified correctly. It attaches to the lock cylinder shaft that turns the lock latch. So in this way you can use either the key or electric lock switch! The number for that part is, 16640848.

Hey! That’s cheating! I have a hedge of arborvitae at least that tall 200’ in length & I have to stand on a 10’ step ladder 1 rung from the top, hold out a 7’ hedge trimmer to cut mine. Then move the ladder and do it again & again & again then go to the other side and do it all over again! 🥵 But they are nice! Yours I mean!

Welcome!

Being that the 192’s are a flat blade type bulbs I’ve seen two things happen with them. One the looped wire that makes the connection on alternate sides of the bulb gets bent acts like a wedge. The other is they corrode and adhere to the brass connector! So two things to try! First put a couple drops of lPS 1 of 2 down in the socket let it sit a few minutes! Now take some lacquer thinner and put several drops in the socket! Invert the socket to dump out the thinner. Wipe the bulb off with a little more thinner. Now take a set of small thin needle nose pliers, like you would use on circuit board components. The thin blades of the needle nose need to under the lower indent register of the 192 bulb and the socket top! Put a piece of thin neoprene or latex between the bulb and the pliers. Squeeze the pliers so the plier jaws/blades can act like a fulcrum between the bulb and the socket top.

Welcome! Not a thing wrong with Camaro's’ my friend! One of my all time favorites! In the day, bite my tongue, the first gen Camaro's out sold the Firebirds a little more than 3 to 1! I bought a brand new “69” Z in the spring of “70” & owed it for 35 years! Still miss it! That was after owning “64” GTO! Anyway, I will presume you know what you have! So the 433 rear end was not a production option in “67” it was in “68” so I would presume someone swapped it before you bought the car.

Kiwi, great choice! Too bad they didn’t have this alloy of brake line material available back in the day! 😪

If it looks like this yes! then google RPO Pontiac codes

Is that low ride or slow ride by Foghat?!

You need to find the RPO sticker that will give you all the codes for the car which will include colors in and out. Might be in the glove box, the console or the trunk. Not sure for your particular model.

What Maserati? What rims?! 🤩