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Shakercars's 1972 Trans Am

2019 August
of the Month

Last Indian

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Everything posted by Last Indian

  1. Last Indian

    Arrowhead

    From the album: Last Indian

  2. Just wondering who uses what oil type, full synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional and why? We use to ask folks this back in the day before I retired. So I’m curious as to the Pontiac crowd since there is a good blend of engine types all the way up to VVT’s.
  3. Two lane, really really cool! You should tell these guys about the physical stamina it takes to climb straight up that way and high! For about 10 years one of my project was with wind turbines and some were built very similar to a column type cell tower like you’re showing. Although most of those are wrapped with a outer housing, which is a little less interesting as you climb since three quarters of the climb is in the pitch dark. Sorry to say I loved it! But I do have some Sioux blood, so maybe that’s it.
  4. Dwight, my two cents for what it's worth. I’m one of those dinosaurs and what you say you are looking for is generally how I build my cars. I don’t like lowered cars, first it negatively effect handle with respect to being able to align the suspension correctly and there are other ways to lower CG & RC. So one thing most people overlook are the body mounts. These have a huge impact on both ride control and handling. I’m not sure what’s out on the market, but you’ll want to replace them with the stiffest material you can that still has some give. If you can’t find something let me now & I’ll give you some ideas. Also if you’er going to replace the bushings look for polyurethane replacements which will be a big improvement and replace everything front & rear that you can! There are probably even upgraded pieces that will be stiffer. Monroe is a decent shock, but KYB makes some nice gas adjustable shocks, but I would still consider air shocks for the rear as Frosty suggested, no matter what you do or don’t carry, just adjust the air accordingly. Last do an upgrade to the sway bar links, this will really tie the car to the ground without giving a stiff ride.
  5. My mistake Frosty! I should pay better attention to what I read. I saw packed wheel bearings and spindle nut and I guess I saw in my minds eye Timken tapered rollers on front spindles of a rear wheel drive. Duh! 😔
  6. Jack, understandably Frosty is thinking traditional rear wheel drive. Notallthere is on the right track, but still most likely not the problem. It sounds like either the inner or outer CV joint of the axle on that side. If it was the bearing it would make the noise all the time, not just in a turn, in a turn scenario is when the CV is flexed the most and the sharper the turn the more the joint is stressed. Except for inward force to remove the axle from the bearing no impacts should be used & it is imperative that the axle shaft be supported properly through the entire process. Otherwise damage to the CVs will occur, which more often than not occurs as a result of improper support. The bearing is a pre-assembled/pre-greased unit and not a tapered roller bearing. Unfortunately to replace the axle assembly you must remove it from the bearing again and I never feel good about reusing a bearing of that type over again, but that's up to you.
  7. Some clarification on some of the suspension mods! FWD’s are notorious for torque steer, even worse than rear wheel posi-traction. FWD’s have deadlier results because unlike rear wheel drives that can counter against torque steer some by steering the front wheels to counter the effect, fwd cars can’t do that. The torque is on the front wheels that steer and the wheel geometry is changing do to that load and poor suspension components. Some of the more recent FWD cars have made effective changes to help eliminate torque steer through incorporating a right side drive shaft bearing to control shaft whip. They also have finally changed the weak and worthless vertical A-arm mount and a few other things to keep suspension geometries in place during high torque loads. Yet for those who have older FWD’s there are really not many or any aftermarket remedies. So to clarify things that can help those who want to reduce torque steer here are some details. The lower A-arm is the largest offender, the lower vertical bushing literally allows the suspension geometry to change split second by split second under torque loads, causing the car to be incapable of turning, but just plowing straight. Upper strut brace, another offender. With most front wheel cars having at least 60% of the weight in the front half, nearly all cars see a substantial flex/movement in the upper strut body housings and strut hardware, I.E. strut bearings, mounts, strut shaft, etc…
  8. I finally found a few suspension pieces I’ve been in search of for awhile. Front sway bar polyurethane frame bushings & a 1” diameter rear sway bar with polyurethane frame bushings. One of the issues with sway bars and their effectiveness is energy transfer. This almost always comes from inadequate links. In the case of the Grand Prix both the front & rear links are inadequate and once the links are improved the frame bushings become inadequate, with the rears being the worst in both links and bushings. Once the rears are improved properly the rear suspension carrier becomes suspect. So while I had improved it in 2004 I found interference problems with the lateral bars and had to cut some of the bracing out which in turn allowed the carrier to be less than adequate once again. On this refresh another carrier was acquired and modified with bracing in a way as to not interfere with suspension travel. Another issue was in the front. Between the larger solid bar and the huge improvement in the front links energy transfer was vastly improved and even in the hardest cornering a flat response occurred, but even a double jam nut would not stop the unthreading of the link shaft over time. So I finally pinned the lock nut of the upper jam nut and that resolved the issue with no more occurrences. I expect additional improvements with the larger rear bar and the added polyurethane frame bushings.
  9. The brakes are a bit of a different animal though. New OEM lines were used and most nearly all the rest was either cleaned up and reused or made. External hardware is OEM, or at least appears to the casual observer to be OEM, but that’s were it stops. Rotors, pads, fluid, O’rings, peddle ratios & material selections are all changed, I.E. non stock or custom. From a purely pragmatic standpoint a car brake system is a fairly simple hydraulic system. It's applied physics, the total weight, weight distribution, center of gravity, roll center and weight transfer, along with coefficient of friction for materials, add fluid chemistry for work function. This may sound complicated, but it's not. Yet the OEMs have complicated the hell out of it to C.T.A…. So I take my systems back to the basics that work best and longest without problems. OEMs use large square, and I use the word loosely, O’rings, why? O’rings are a mechanical device, there is a whole mathematical science around them, they are not a gasket. They are round for a purpose and the tiny center ridge that runs around them is not a parting line. I could detail more, but it's not the point here. So number one I change both the O’ring? To an actual O’ring and from buna rubber to Viton. Most brake systems hold residual pressure which in turn creates brake drag. In every system I run I look for a way to negate or elevate that pressure.
  10. So for those who have a interest in these types of things I hope this helps in some way. As I said the fuel & brake systems needed refreshed. All lines, fill tube, vent system, tank, pump and hoses were replaced by I.E. OEM pieces. Also the area under the fuel tank and rear suspension carrier were never fully painted with the special paint I use, so now I could finish that.
  11. Call it the 13 year itch or what ever you like, but it's been that long since the major upgrade in 2004 on the Indian. So with it being 17 years old it was time for a major refresh and some upgrades as well as some improvements from what’s been learned in 13 years of mods in use. First the fuel & brake systems need refreshed. All lines, fill tube, vent system, tank, pump and hoses.
  12. Copy that! For me the Camaro died after the 2nd generation, when they went to McPherson struts & went to a complete unibody. I understand their car designs are to make a profit, which is why I seldom leave a car stock. The OEMs often choose a design of a component based on cost not engineering function.
  13. Joe, it looks like you've done a really great job on the Lemans! A little input about the traction/rear end issue that might help. The issue you’re seeing is somewhat common with racing/burnouts/very hard acceleration. I raced for years and I would see two problems with GM axles at the track. The first was the issue your speaking of, posi’s don't like burnouts! That’s not their purpose, If you keep doing burnouts you won’t have posi long and the rear end will just revert to an open rear end. A blue printered open rear end will out perform a posi under those conditions and if you setup the suspension right it will lay down two patches of rubber! Without going all technical on you or worse yet hearing the “you’re full of it” go do a little investigating and see what 700 hp NASCAR cars run or top dragsters run. If you like I can give you some ideas to improve the suspension to help, but as long as you run the posi it's going to torque steer till the posi breaks!
  14. It's always difficult to diagnose car issues from a far & electrical is even worse, that said, lets see what we can figure out. Since your description is a little vague let me ask some questions. Do you have at least 12 votes at both the starter & solenoid in the crank position. If yes, and I doubt it how about just key on? There is also a fuel pump relay on the right side by the battery in the wire harness. Those blow from time to time and strand people.
  15. Today I started the first refresh of the Indian since the initial restructuring mods in 2004. This is to gut the underside from the engine back and replace all lines, gas tank, hoses, etc... Pluse a few structural upgrades in the back & a few suspension upgrades front & back. Replacing all the weatherstripping/reveal molding, etc... A couple interior mods and in general a good cleanup of what you never can get to without a tear down! Hey Frosty thanks for the parts!😁!! Well it had your picture on it!
  16. Couldn't find the single picture of the black 2002 the first time! Forgot to mention I also owned a "88" GTA for 6 months in 2012.
  17. My first car was a Pontiac, a "64" GTO in early "68" than the "69" Z/28 came out and bye bye GTO hello Z. Than in 2000 the Grand Prix followed by 2002 Black GP, a 2002 white GP & a red 2003 GP.
  18. Well it may not help, but ground issues are the second largest causes of electrical issues. There are multiple grounds connections up front. The main ground on the frame by the battery, four on the engine & trans, one on the back firewall, one over by the drivers strut tower. Four out front on the core support. Then at least 4 under in the cab area. All of these should be pulled and wire brushed and the surface they attach to should be wire to clean metal. Then when reconnected electrical grease should be used to coat them.
  19. Did ou pull and clean any grounds & if so do you recall which ones?
  20. 2020, one other thought. Put the trans in manual mode. Place the shifter in 1st. as you drive shift to 2nd. then 3rd., but don't put it in D. See if that keeps it from down shifting.
  21. Ok, you'll need to get a tech with high end obdll that can test the trans operation. Most likely it's a shift solenoid or more likely the pressure control solenoid valve. If that proves to be the case, that a load of work. Everything on the drivers side has to come out or pull the tranny. Either way if the cars worth it & that's the problem you might be better off replacing the tranny.
  22. Then you'll need a tech with a high end obdll to check out the electronic shift solenoids one is most likely bad, possibly the pressure control solenoid valve. If it's one of them their a real pain. Got to pull everything on the drivers side, suspension, axle, etc. ugly! Sorry! If the cars worth it put in a new 4t65e hd.
  23. So your saying you have cruise control?
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