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Last Indian
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Posts posted by Last Indian
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Looks like you made it buddy! So cool!
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3 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:
Today is 13....... Tomorrow is the last day finally!!!! Thankz again everyone, but today/tomorrow are going to be the most I've needed your help. Have had a couple guys figure out the cheat or something jumping a 100 votes in a day.
Day #,dare I say 13?🫢! #508 looks like you’re in 8th! Hang in there buddy!
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#480 here! Do I here 500? Looks like you’re in 6th!
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18 hours ago, Matador red said:
Never thought that would help
There are many different types, but a good one, like this one from Summit will give you what you need. It has a check valve that allows for vacuum to be stored. So when you are pulling 14 or 15” of vacuum the canister stores that. So even if you need to apply your brakes in a low vacuum condition you still have 14 or 15” of vacuum to apply to the brakes. 14 to 15” of vacuum is more than enough to operate most all vacuum assisted parts. Brakes, air, etc.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-vpr700#overview-
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19 minutes ago, Matador red said:
The car came with power brakes be nice to keep them
Gotta run right now, I’ll get back you tomorrow, but you should be able to keep the power brakes! Just need a vacuum canister.
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1 hour ago, Matador red said:Low vacuum should I add a electric boost
Most likely no! Give me the cam spec again. Lift intake & exhaust also duration! .500 lift is a healthy lift for a 400. What is the vacuum in gear?
My 1969 Z28 which was almost 600 hp in gear at idle pulled 4” of vacuum & in neutral only about 14”! It got 6mpg & had a loopy idle most guys would kill for. It was what is known as a scavenger engine, wasted a lot of fuel because of how it pulls fresh fuel in & through the cylinder before the exhaust valve closes. This effect drastically reduces vacuum, but in a 12-1 compression engine it has impressive results. This is one of the reasons Z’s did not have power brakes or air!-
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11 minutes ago, Frosty said:Voted - Day #10
Cold beer and hot pizza when this is over is a good start sunny boy - at least for those of us who are locals.
Justa thought.
You can mail mine in one of those hot sleeves.😃 398
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6 hours ago, Fabio Parede said:Hello guys. Good news. I Changed the water pump pulley from 8" to 6" like you suggested and turn on the car. The car temperature now, stopped, it´s about 88 celsius 190 F. Ouside temperaure about 86 F. Temperature almost dont changed for about 15 min with the car parked. I think the problem were solved.
Now I´ll change the blade for a GM 18" with clutch to improve more.
I DON´T HAVE WORDS TO THANK YOU GUYS FOR THE HELP, INFORMATIONS AND PACIENCE.
That is good news Fabio! Glad to here it.
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32 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:
Disney thing with the Seagulls... You know before the Chinese government bought controlling interest. Think I'm 7-8th more than happy to stay right here and cruise over the finish line. This really has been alot to ask of my friends and family. Simply can't thank you all enough. 
Yeah,no! That was mine, mine, mine. #9,#9,#9 was a reference to the Beatles revolution #9! Where Lennon says that over & over.
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4 hours ago, Stef said:
Hello,
I have a technical question.
Following a detection of a problem with the code scaner, can someone help me in the search for the defective part?
The codes are:
12 normal self-test
32
34
For information, my car is Californian, it is equipped with the canister system.Thank you in advance.
Long story short this relates to the MAP sensor, but it’s not that simple. It may not be a bad MAP sensor because this is just one of the reader sensors of the EGR system. This all deals with nitrogen oxide & combustion. It could be several things. The EGR valve, a vacuum line, gasket, etc. Don’t just go by a MAP sensor, find the problem. Than fix that whatever it might be in the EGR system. The MAP sensor is just telling you that you don’t have the proper flow of exhaust gas into the combustion chambers to lower the temperatures to stop nitrogen from combining with the other combustion gas to form NO.
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2 hours ago, Frosty said:
Voted - Day #9 - 346 votes
Yup! #9! I seem to remember that saying from somewhere? #9, #9, #9! Oh it was 361 when I voted.
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Ditto for me
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Day #7 voted! Hey only 7 more to go!
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Voted again , 2nd time went from 238 to 239.
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Day #6! Hey I think I beat the snowman! #230
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Me too #5 day!
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5 minutes ago, Fabio Parede said:
Almost 2". Actually I use a 18" blade and I think 20" will not fit.
Almost 20. But I think a 20" blade will not fit. A put a kind of paper At mine blade increasing 1" and 2". For more 1 (19" total) is ok. For 2" no.
Ok, one step at a time. First change the pulley to the 6” & see what change that makes. If it is enough you could stop there, although if it were mine I would put the GM 18” fan blade with the clutch in as that type design does a better job of pulling air when needed, but decouples when not needed.
If that change doesn’t prove to be enough than we can talk about what you might do next.-
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Fabio, what is the diameter of the shroud hole where the fan sits? And what is the distance from the water pump hub face to the beginning edge of that hole?
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I suspect what the other ones are doing is voting multiple times a day! Because I JustA voted for the third time today! Now you are at 151, but 9th place.
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Dang! Me too! But I voted twice yesterday & twice today already!😜
According to their site JustA’s got 144 votes! He’s in 8th place. Let’s pick up the pace fellas!
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Hey, fyi I JustA clicked your link tonight & it let me vote again! So twice in one day! Looks like you’re tied for 4th.
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3 hours ago, Fabio Parede said:I have anothers doubts:
My Shroud appears to be original. My fan appears to be from Mopar (Dodge Dart) 7 blades and 18 inches.
My water pump pulley has 8" and the main pulley (from crankshaft) is about 6 1/2". Is That correct? Because with this configuration the water pump will rotate less than the motor. I´m correct?
I have a A/C Non Original installed but not working. Only the hoses conected, no gas, no compressor belt, no electrical power to the vent inside the car. Those hoses get very hot when the engine works. Can I eliminate that hoses? I have no intention to put A/C to work (I think I will increase even more temperature)
I did not tested the Thermostat, its a "normal" 180 F (not high flow)
Any suggestions?
Thank you guys
Fabio, the pulley should be the stock 6” not 8” that slower speed could easily cause a lack of cooling at lower speeds. The shroud & fan blades are wrong, as Kiwi indicated. There needs to be only about a 1/4 “ to 1/2 “ gap between the blade tips & the shroud edge. Also, the Mopar fan might work in Dodges setup, but it’s no good for yours. You need a straight blade fan to one with bent tips. See attached photo.
I don’t think you have blockage because it cools at higher speeds when you are move air through the radiator. I think, the fan issue, the shroud to fan issue & the pulley size, are all combining to cause the problem.2 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:is it justA me , or does that fan look little in that shroud ?
Fabio, how much room is there from the end of the blades to the shroud ? that will cvertainly be loosing flow through the radiator at low speed.
No it’s not you!
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2 hours ago, Frosty said:Voted - day #3
Dang ! Me too. I guess I’m too old & slow to beat even a snowman that has sticks for arms! 🥺
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My Sunbird is entered in a calendar contest
in The Pontiac Car Show
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Well deserved buddy! Let’s face it no matter how many votes were repeats; so were the others that participated. But! & it’s a big but, unlike you who put more blood, sweat & heart into JustA6, not to mention money! Most of them just plopped down their money & drove it home! Seriously how much hands on work did the guy with the new Challenge put in his.