Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

31pontiac's 1959 Bonneville

2019 December
of the Month

Last Indian

Members
  • Content Count

    665
  • Avg. Content Per Day

    1
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    64

Posts posted by Last Indian


  1. 11 hours ago, Frosty said:

    image.png.c569a7e7df8895342c4fd7335123b93b.png

    Wise acre!

    image.png.eeac690d7ab98153996295ba64b5b6f6.png

    Retiree's coffee cup.

    Look at it this, when you retire in the not tooooo distant future, you’ll have more time for everybody that you now tell, sorry I don’t have time to do that!🥴


  2. On 12/2/2019 at 2:16 PM, Frosty said:

     

    Does that make me sound like a millennial? Gawd I hope not!!!! :picard:

    Hey! We don’t use the M word around here! Heck most of them don’t know what a Pontiac is! Not even the actual Indian Chief himself! (Ringo excluded of course) 


  3. I buy #8 SS Phillips modified truss head lathe screws! These screws work well in plastic and have a large flat head to give good support for clamping. Lay on your back, if you don’t have a lift, and look at the bottom side of the front cover where it interfaces with the lower air dam. This is where you will drill 6 holes 1/8” in diameter through the cover and lower air dam to attach them to each other with the #8 SS Phillips modified truss head lathe screws. Once this is done and the cover is attached to the inner fender the front cover will be quite ridged. Additionally in the front an other part that is prone too vibration are the headlights! This issue I handled by adding stabilizing spacer/shelf below the headlight and attached it to the impact bumper. This, like the front cover, makes the headlights ridged like cars of the past. One additional thing you can do to stiffen things just a little further is a single #6 SS sheet metal screw mid way up and mid way inboard at the front of the front inside fender. Drill a appropriate hole through the plastic inside fender and through the steel inside fender and install the SS screw. This single attachment stiffens the inside fender substantially. All of this will really change the entire quality of the car! How it feels, how it reacts, how it sounds over the road!


    The picture below Depicts the attachment of the cover to the lower air damm

    4A88D703-2653-4789-A358-98262ECAD8C0.jpeg
     

    below is showing the stabilizing block arrangement for the headlight assembly. This consists of a shock absorbing lower block, ( like you use to isolate equipment vibration )with an upper soft dense foam pad, ( like you kneel on ). The lower block is bonded to the impact bar and the pad is bonded to the block.

    FCE08114-725B-48F7-9B28-802C4863DCCC.jpeg

    • Like 1

  4. At the bottom area of the front cover there is a lot of work to be done. Other than the 6 push pin fasteners on the top side of the lower air inlets, there are no other retaining fasteners except at the inner fenders. Since there is really no convenient way to use any other type of hardware in place of those 6 push pins, due to the hole size in both the cover and the lower air dam, I decided to go an other way. I also feel that this choice works better in helping to tie the entire front nose area together better, this includes, reinforcing the lower air dam, a bit of a modification to the Inner fenders and front cover! So what I did was this; first I cut an 1/8” piece of aluminum to fit the back part of the lower air dam to take the warpage out of it that occurs over time due to a poor design, heat and the thickness of the plastic. I contour the ends of the aluminum plate to match the air dam and attach it using 3/16 aluminum pop rivets. 

     

    This is a picture from a new front cover I’m working on for an other project, but you can see how large the push pin holes are and the holes in the lower air dam that mates to it are just as large.

    072DEB68-E971-4C8B-8B86-6168288C1EC6.jpeg

    Below is a picture of the lower air dam that has been reinforced with the aluminum plate. This stiffens and straightens the defector portion of the lower air dam making it more effective at its function.

    992E9C6C-5370-4832-A49C-6DB73E5BE86E.jpeg

    I will update with more info soon.

    • Like 1

  5. 7 hours ago, Frosty said:

    I went with the wife last night to go to a used car dealership east of Derroit. It was an expensive evening. We came home with a 2007 Hummer H3 H3X with 60k miles, sunroof, I-5, leather seats. The red/orange hooks will be painted black come spring.

    So if you are keeping score at home, that means we now have 2 Pontiacs (Lucy and Black Beauty), 2 Chevrolets (Traverse and Colorado), 2 Hummers (a 2006 base and a 2007 H3X), and 1 Buick (the Roadmonster) for 3 drivers in the house hold, and not enough garage space for all of them either. 

    I now have "his and hers Hummers", and I am not the "his".  Dang it!

    BTW - both Hummers are white with black interiors. The 2006 has aluminium wheels while the 2007 has the black wheels. The 2006 has a chrome grille, the 2007 is painted white (body color) and has the brush guard. I suspect we will have side-by-side photos by the weekend.

    I wonder if I can find a rust free, low mileage H3 Alpha? Hmmm. 

    image.thumb.png.00b95e655c01db60ae9666517b755bbf.png

    image.thumb.png.c58355126a1355de49bf219cbf4d07ad.png

    image.thumb.png.152d465ea8edaced4f33817a6e72f520.png

    So, is it fair to say you have a couple of hummers in your house and one person who whistles while he works? 😁 while you all have to traverse here and there to get to the right car?

    Cougrats buddy or I guess I should say to your wife, you’re just the guy who gets to take care of it.

    • Haha 1

  6. 9 hours ago, stratman said:

    Many here know the reason I had to sell my '68 GTO four years ago and had been without a Pontiac until this year. I am so grateful to be a part of this calendar with these eleven other magnificent Pontiacs. 

    Thank you to all who entered and voted,

    A special thank you to Ringo who put in all the hard work to make this possible... The annual calendar voting seems to get better every year , thanks buddy!

    Really glad to see you win Stratman! Well deserved, beautiful car! 

    Congratulations to all who won! 

    • Thanks 1

  7. Exterior panel stabilization, securing & attachment improvements that will help quiet them. If you own a Pontiac from the early 1990s through 2009, then you may have noticed that because of how a lot of the panels were made and attached, there can be that creak or crack when you push on a panel like a front bumper cover or rear cover, etc., but these improvements will also help to improve driving characteristics; yes really! The old cars were not and are not like that! Why? Because they bolted together solid, panel to panel, not with plastic push pins that go in a hole almost half again as big as the pin O.D… Well you can have that same solid non noisy panel setup as the old Skool classics have and had. Why would this improve driving characteristics? Well when panels aren’t stable they negatively impact air movement aka air foil characteristics. This may seem irrelevant at 35mph, but not at 50mph! There is a reason NASCAR as well as well as some of the car industry spends millions of dollars on aerodynamic research, wind tunnels and the like!

     

    Still for me, when you build a car, you build a car! You build as a a complete assembly, too be as perfect as you can make it, for every instance and every situation! I may be anal, ok I am, but if I was paying to have a car built, this is what I would want, so why should I not do it for myself?! Really! A very simple example is the vertical edge in the engine compartment where the outer and inner fender are spot welded together (see pic)! While there is no value other than aesthetics in this case this is just a case of a little effort to make an improvement and remove an edge that can get beat up easily and inflict some damage to knuckles or the like.

     

    So to the details, again I will use my 2000 Grand Prix for example purposes. First the front end. I’ll start with the bumper support, this piece attaches to the lower hood latch and supports the upper area of the bumper cover with two push pins and one small screw/washer, but also attaches to the steel brace/bracket that the headlights attach. This where I make an adjustment to effect the height of the bumper cover height gap to the hood. I do this by retapping the hole from 6mm x 1.25mm to ¼ x 20 thd… and then placing stainless steel washers between the bumper support and the steel headlight bracket with a SS ¼-20 buttonhead screw through the middle of the washers. This piece also has the ability to be adjusted to some degree at the bumper cover attachment area itself. This includes the fact that it interfaces with the two air ducts for radiator cooling that locate it vertically on molded post of those ducts. These could be shortened or raised by the addition of a spacer if need be. This will in turn changes the gap between the upper lip of the cover and the hood. Likewise the two headlight brackets need to be fixed, as they are not attach properly as a support structure. They allow for to much movement and vibration as they come from the OEM. There are two places I will show to attach these brackets to the core support to make them solid like they should be. This structure with its long span between the factory attachment points at each end of the bracket needs to be made ridged. The two outer holes of the bumper support that interface with the bumper cover will not use the push pin fasteners. Instead it will change to SS ¼-20 buttonhead screws with a SS washer and nut on the underside. This now holds the upper bumper cover tight to the support so there is no movement or flex. 
     

     

    9668181A-FC1B-4E29-9278-C15EB13312F5.jpeg

    019DBC36-92DB-49E9-B57D-F5788FD348FE.jpeg
    the two pictures above show the vertical edge fix.

    C1795DBE-DBDF-47F4-A5F6-9CEE82395BAC.jpeg

    28D1184F-7695-420D-9EDB-7966318B7FF3.jpeg

    0F47E5DF-EE76-4B50-A7F8-9E9EE5BDB835.jpeg

    5AE75191-A18F-4413-A0D2-90AB5F90DE61.jpeg

    ADB86D8D-3CD7-4667-86B4-AC69E040F6EE.jpeg

    2D7AEF29-C21E-41B6-A2E4-E3B57D0AB7EC.jpeg
    this top portion area fix is the easy part! The bottom side gets much more involved, that will be the next segment.

    • Like 1

  8. 8 hours ago, Bud Sisto said:

    I own a 11986 Pontiac Parisianne with 46K original miles. It was garage kept all it's life and owned by an older gentleman, which means that the odds of some parts on the car being broke or worn out by now are small. That being said, It doesn't make sense that the ignition switch would be broken in any way. From the off position to the on to the start, it works perfectly, but I cannot in any way get it to turn to the accessory position. I make sure the key is all the way in and push in and absolutely it will not go counterclockwise. So I have a question for the forum. Did Pontiac eliminate the accessory position somewhere in the 80s? It has an HEI system. Or is my switch simply malfunctioning? Anyone know? I'm baffled, and could use some input. Thanks for any help with this topic, Bud

    I believe by 86 accessory was not backwards, but forward, but before start/run.


  9. 23 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    Your car has the LT1 V8 engine, as does my Buick Roadmaster. However, the Optispark ignition is often consider this engine's Achille's Heal. The problems you are reporting are consistent with what previous other LT1 owners have reported. I suspect your Optispark is starting to fail. I know some guys have also reported bad replacement Optisparks out of the box too. So I would recommend looking up a quality manufacturer as a replacement. 

    I have been fortunate with my Buick, it still has the original OEM Optispark in it at 127k miles.

    Good catch Frosty! I forgot about that setup! That was a somewhat short lived technology I never really got into. Kind of like fiber optics, which i did do a lot of work on, is a great idea, but the level of precision and maintenance is too encompassing!

    • Thanks 1

  10. 2 hours ago, J summers said:

    Hi every body l have a 94 Trans-am owned it 20 years keeps cutting out replacedfuel pump relay fuel filter coil ignition module still cuts out did a cars and coffee meet 50 miles round trip on way back to the ranch cuts out started on fourth attempt got me home 20 miles never missed a beat. Any ideas guys 

    Welcome to FP! How many miles? No codes I presume? Not knowing the miles or if there are any codes, it is possible that there’s an injector issue or an IAC valve issue.


  11. 1 hour ago, Ringo64 said:

    Pretty popular question around gearhead circles of the internet is pick a manufacturer or country to own 3 cars for your lifetime. Time to pose that question to our Pontiac crowd!

    If you had to choose 3 Pontiacs to be the vehicles for your lifetime, which would they be?

    For myself:

    1. 1965 GTO - love the 2nd year GTO style/lines/everything
    2. 1971 Trans Am - blue/white color-scheme, love it
    3. 2009 G8 GXP - gotta have a family sedan right?

    How bout you?

    For me!

    1. 1969 Firebird Trans Am convertible ( only 8 made )

    2. 1964 GTO

    3. 1966 Grand Prix

    • Like 1

  12. On 10/25/2019 at 11:01 AM, Frosty said:

    You mean from the point of reason, the point of being rationale, the person who calmly asks "what the f*ck happened?" and then ultimate says, "don't do it again" (oh like I was consciously trying that hard to do it the first time but succeeded anyway!). :mod:

    Mine never swears, but she never is calm about it either, but she certainly always says “don’t do that again” like I will listen :rofl:!

    18 hours ago, notallthere said:

    You should see the look I got when I confessed to putting the tools away before going the emergency room.

    Not to take anything away from Notallthere! But, the grinder story I completely get, and I’ve never heard it! 

    In 1988 when I built the full frame for my wife’s Z/28, I’ve posted pictures before, I had the subframe out in my backyard grinding it with a 9” 16 grit disc to get the whole thing down to bare steel to start welding in the back part of the frame I had built. Well while grinding around the shock/Aarm area I caught the edge of the upper  weldment that the upper Aarm bolts to. This tore a PAC-man type chunk out of the disc and sense I had just replaced the disc and was 140 or so feet from the shop I thought what the heck, I’ll keep going! 5 seconds later I’m standing holding a grinder in one hand spinning at 3500 rpm out of balance, while looking at 4” long by 1” deep, laid wide open gash in my forearm. They told me I missed my tendons and the muscle by 1 millimeter. That said, no, I did not cleanup before I went to the ER. 

    To top it off this is one of the safer mishaps I’ve had :nuts:!

Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.