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Posts posted by Last Indian
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Well, first off the mechanic you went to needs to go back to class. Cats go bad! And when they do, depending on what has gone awry, they can do many different things. Code P0420 is a catalytic system code! There are many things that this can be, but one of the first is rule out the cat & the two oxygen sensors. To do this on your own may present some issues depending on your capabilities & tools. At nearly 300,000 miles the bolts at the back of the cat that connects to the back exhaust system will more than likely need cut off & replaced. You also need a replacement or a way to check the cat for both efficiency & flow. A replacement could be a non catalytic pipe, but you still need a way to link the o2 sensors & their feedback.
You could also be looking at some fuel delivery issues with regard to the missfires. So check your fuel line pressure at the fuel rail. You could & more than likely do have some fowling of your injectors unless you have maintained the system well. So if you don’t use a good fuel treatment like STA-BIL & Gumout’s Regane complete fuel system cleaner I would suggest doing so.- 2
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2 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:Is there one for Grampa?? Frosty has joined the club last Thurs. Congrat's on the new LIL snowball. ☃️ I'll let Frosty brag on all the particulars.
That is so cool! Congrats Frosty! Just don’t get the new snowball mixed up with your snow cone.
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1 hour ago, Green Machine said:Thank you for your very helpful feedback! On the hunt for a knowledgeable mechanic. Definitely out of my league.
Dawn, I don’t wish to discourage you, but I have worked on a many high pressure injection system & they can get complicated as well as expensive & involved. This was one of GM’s first production direct injection attempts in a car. 5 years after your car the systems got much less involved. I just think if you don’t understand how these systems work you could spend a lot of money needlessly & still not resolve the issue.
let us know how you make out.- 4
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19 hours ago, Green Machine said:
I would believe you need a knowledgeable mechanic. Why? Unless you are very adept at troubleshooting a direct injection system, you’ll end up just being a part’s replacer! Which can get expensive quick. Without being there I would believe that the pressurizing pump that mounts to the upper front of the engine is causing the trouble. This pump increases the fuel pump supplied fuel from between 35psi to 155psi depending on engine rpm.
Additionally the evac system is at the back of the car usually in the upper area behind a rear tire. This involves a vacuum canister & a pump.
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11 hours ago, Green Machine said:
Welcome to the site Dawn. What code? There are a lot of codes for fuel pressure, P0089, P0090, P0091, P0092, P00C6, P00C8, P00C9, etc, etc.
So knowing what particular code would help to start. There may be more than one. There may also be codes set for miss fires as a result of the fuel issue. You should also check the pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
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I gotta admit; who really cares?! I know I don’t! NASCAR is not NASCAR anymore! Period! In my day we called it IROC! That’s were you control the rules so tightly the all the cars are built exactly the same no difference! That’s what NASCAR is today. NASCAR was supposed to be about individual ingenuity & engineering, set within a loose framework of rules to see not only who was the best driver, but the best innovative engineer. Which meant sometimes the best engineered car with a fairly good driver could beat the best drive. Today, the only drivers who win are the ones lucky enough to still have a car that rolls at the end of the race. Sad! Really sad! Woke takes you nowhere, but loserville!
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On 3/3/2024 at 3:13 AM, 64 kiwi boni said:Kiwi, depends on the condition of the aluminum. If it’s still bright, looks fully polished, but has a bit of a haze, you know like aluminum gets after sitting in the weather for a bit. I use simichrome! Good sh- - ! Wear gloves though as the chemistry can bother some folks.
If it’s worse than that you need to rebuff it with a buffing motor & pad & buffing compound. If it’s really bad you may need to wet sand with very fine grit. The courses grit should be no more than 1000 & from there move to 1200 than 2500. Than start buffing. If the valve covers look like the air cleaner I think the simichrome would work fine.
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20 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:are they salt and vinegar chips ?
No, but they will be crunchy & I guarantee they will have some bite!
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Ok, it might not seem that way, but matching a small right hand facing Indian head to a left hand facing Indian head, might not seem that difficult! Well it’s always a pain to hand make a second piece. And to make a opposite second piece is even a bigger pain. Than the size really complicates it. None the less here they are.
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1 hour ago, Frosty said:Pack it with Vaseline? Really? Where should it be packed to be most effective - the engine or Joe?
Does Vaseline contain ZDDP for the "break in" period? Asking for a friend!
I believe it goes in the rear oil hole. 🫣 ZDDP? Yes it does have Zippity Doo Dah Performance. Which last through the “break in”!
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Welcome! Every bit of what JustA said. If you’re not sure ask. If it doesn’t sound right to you ask again! And pictures are, you know, worth a 1000 words.
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Welcome ! Nice Judge! There’s a guy on here who’s a little frosty, but he has the Jury!
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1 hour ago, Frosty said:Here are the photos that Indyman Joe sent me to post in this thread.
Joe reports that there is no oil going to the cam thrust plate.
He said he is getting a degree wheel and he hopes to have it done shortly.
He also said if you look at one picture, you can see the feed hole. If you look in the other picture, you can see how it was when he took it off - 180 degrees off!
Oil!! Who needs stinking oil?! JustA throw some Vaseline on it! 🥴
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13 hours ago, B52bombardier1 said:
I would say that you don't have a vehicle speed sensor if that TA has its original equipment. That would be more for the On Board Diagnostic I (OBD) vehicles in the early 90's to about 1995 and then the OBD II compliant vehicles after that. Your vehicle would need a Powertrain Control Module / Transmission Control Module or an electronic speedometer to make use of the signal on a VSS connection.
Rick
14 minutes ago, Frosty said:I am not certain that a 1976 Firebird would have a VSS, just the speedometer cable since all the gages are analog. If you have installed some sort of electronic controls that now requires a VSS, then you need something to convert the analog out of the transmission to digital. I believe Painless Performance wiring has one.
If the car is stock and going to remain mostly stock, I don't think there is a VSS or a need for one.
Ditto, Ditto. No VSS in a “70s” /2nd gen F body! All where gear driven speedo cable to an analog gage.
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1 hour ago, JUSTA6 said:Oh he’s got a connection, but not to Waterford, the other part!
47 minutes ago, Fitzy said:Oh my God - that reminds me...I locked myself out of my pickup a few weeks ago. There I was, in the rain with an appointment looming. With a piece of packing strap I got it, but it took 30 minutes of manipulation and swearing. There is now a spare key hidden under the car. Now where are my pants?
But, under which car?
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11 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:
Please explains last Indian ? …
love a link if there is footage
Well I would if I could, but it’s not 2020 anymore, so not a good idea! JustA knew what I meant! He’s a patriot, & a good one. Let’s JustA say someone who truly speaks the truth, was really close to JustA’s hometown yesterday!
In this very moment & in this time, there is a book that never lies. It says the truth is cast to the ground & it names who does it! AND it’s not the one who was in Waterford township yesterday!- 1
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I’m thinking JustA is smiling ear to ear tonight! Waterford township, Mi. Elite jet center!!
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9 hours ago, Fitzy said:To Gary: because there is no need to 'connect' engine bay to interior (the factory do it obviously for ease of manufacture) I plan to run complete wires through, thereby negating any possible issues completely.
That sounds like a good choice! You probably have thought of this already, but if not, wire. What ever gage you buy & that will most likely be more than one. Consider silicone coated or PVC coated wire because of it’s flexibility. They also make multi wire jacketed wire in PVC, which is flexible & would actually help you to reduce wire runs to the same area.
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On 2/15/2024 at 1:56 AM, Fitzy said:Yeah, whatever. Come on over. Once the beers come out, we'll just sit around poking fun at the car.
So today I thought I'd at least start it up because I haven't done anything since changing the leads. Took it around the block and it was faultless. Plenty of power, no carry on. I then whipped out the multimeter and checked a few things. Power to coil with ignition 'on' but engine not running is only 5V!!! It should be 12. With engine running it's 7.7V, which is about right due to resistance wire feeding the points. Battery voltage with engine off is 12.4. Engine running: 12.3. Yes, I know that's not enough. Tested fuse box with key to acc: 12.2. With switch 'on:' only 11.7.
So i'm now thinking there's an issue with the voltage coming out of the ignition switch which shits me because I've checked coil voltage in the past and it was 12V, so something has mysteriously changed. Also an obvious voltage drop between ignition 'on' and 'acc' position.
Whilst I was under the hood getting cranky, I pulled the 2 firewall plugs that feed through it into the footwell. What a mess! 60 years of crap and rust in there. The pics are the 'before' shots. If you're thinking "why doesn't he get rid of the surface rust on the booster & master cylinder," it's because the master will one day be changed to dual circuit and whilst the booster is out, I can clean it up and paint it then. Whilst they were apart, I checked for voltage going in and it was 11.46. I checked for resistance between outer terminals and inner ones - zero. Checked for resistance across all battery terminals and their various connections, the isolaters and all the earth straps and the main earth lead - all zero Ohms.
So...I THINK I'm going to run fresh decent gauge wires from the correct terminals on the back of the ignition switch. The car's original resistance wire seems to be working okay but I wonder if a fresh 12V to the coil via a ballast resistor might be the better way to go?
Of course if I had a Corolla, I could just jump in and go somewhere. 😁
Thanks to Kiwi and Gary for their help and words of inspiration. I shall sally forth and see what happens.
That reminds me: those useless Blue Streak leads are never going back on, so if someone wants them, let me know. You can have them for nothing - about what they're worth. I am NOT adjusting the reg. I'll take the car to a sparky and they can test the alternator and fiddle with the reg if they feel the need. I'm likely to make the car burst into flames if I touch either.
I forgot to mention: as car was idling I turned on headlights, then indicators then brake lights. The voltmeter swung abruptly into 10V territory each time I activated something. What's going on there?
And Kiwi suggested checking alternator output. I don't know how. There's a substantial wire coming out of the back and a smaller 2 prong connector which I assume goes to the idiot light and something else. How do I check output?
That’s it Peter! You put your pissed off hat on & show those little electrons who there messing with! Its a lot of work & detail, but oh so worth it. Are you leaving those bulkheads & just going to go from the interior side of the car? If you are, clean those male bulkheads/terminals up with some fine soft steel wool. Then spray them with some LPS 1 & let them sit for a day or two. Then wash them down with some alcohol, not beer, but isopropyl! And let dry. The female side is a little more difficult. Get some 280 grit wet & dry carborundum paper & cut & fold it so it will go in to the female terminal with minimal effort. Then slide it in & out. This will help clear out corrosion & debris. Then once again spray with LPS1 & let sit, then the alcohol thing again.
When you put them back together use petroleum jelly liberally on the terminals. This material is not a dielectric, but does help those type of terminals connect & it also prevents corrosion.13 hours ago, Fitzy said:I hope you guys are happy - look what you made me do.
I was never happy with the electrics in that car. By my own admission, I rushed through it and simply plugged everything back in after I had refurbed the interior so it's my fault that it's come to this. The pics are embarrassing but let this be a warning to new players: do it once and do it right.
I saw an excellent YT clip on rewiring your car and whilst I mightn't go the whole hog, I will at the very least clean up the mess under the dash and add a bunch of relays AND a new firewall connection to negate those crappy 60 year old items.
As per the YT suggestion, I made a list of what needs power and divided it between front of firewall, cabin and anything beyond the back seat. Once you make a list, it's surprising how sparse it is. My car is without aircon, power windows & seats and I will simply bypass the heater, cigarette lighter and any other useless items to keep it as simple as possible.
I looked at regulator adjustment and there's a single spring loaded little screw in there. At the appropriate time, I will test alternator output and see what the reg is doing. This is a chance to get the fuel gauge calibrated correcly too and I can clean the faces of the speedo and instruments a lot better than I did the first time. I might even hook up the Frosty Memorial Tacho whilst I'm under the dash grunting & sweating.
Yes, I'm having a beer. Why? It's hot, sticky and the mossies & bugs have decided that my face is a good place to hover close to whilst my three arms are busy trying to get something apart that was assembled when the Ark set sail.
I genuinely appreciate everyone's input and you can be assured I am taking everything you say on board.
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Misfiring 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix
in Pontiac Performance Discussion/Questions
Posted
Well if for now you ignore the possible cat issue & focus on the misfire issue I would suggest pulling the injectors & test them. To me this is the most obvious scenario if the fuel pressure is good & coils, etc check out. Lack of fuel will cause misfiring. With injectors that are fouled or plugged this will get worst as rpm increases. Remember this is a port injected system! Which means there is always fuel laying in the intake manifold. So a weak or plugged injector may not feed its cylinder the proper fuel, when the intake valve on that cylinder opens it can rob fuel from an adjacent cylinder intake area, causing a multi cylinder misfire. You can make a simple setup by getting a spare injector pigtail wire, a little giant pump, connecting hose, 12 volt supply, some gas & a container for the injector to spray into.