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Pontiac of the Month

FBIRD69's 1969 Firebird

2024 March
of the Month

Last Indian

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Everything posted by Last Indian

  1. Well if for now you ignore the possible cat issue & focus on the misfire issue I would suggest pulling the injectors & test them. To me this is the most obvious scenario if the fuel pressure is good & coils, etc check out. Lack of fuel will cause misfiring. With injectors that are fouled or plugged this will get worst as rpm increases. Remember this is a port injected system! Which means there is always fuel laying in the intake manifold. So a weak or plugged injector may not feed its cylinder the proper fuel, when the intake valve on that cylinder opens it can rob fuel from an adjacent cylinder intake area, causing a multi cylinder misfire. You can make a simple setup by getting a spare injector pigtail wire, a little giant pump, connecting hose, 12 volt supply, some gas & a container for the injector to spray into.
  2. Well, first off the mechanic you went to needs to go back to class. Cats go bad! And when they do, depending on what has gone awry, they can do many different things. Code P0420 is a catalytic system code! There are many things that this can be, but one of the first is rule out the cat & the two oxygen sensors. To do this on your own may present some issues depending on your capabilities & tools. At nearly 300,000 miles the bolts at the back of the cat that connects to the back exhaust system will more than likely need cut off & replaced. You also need a replacement or a way to check the cat for both efficiency & flow. A replacement could be a non catalytic pipe, but you still need a way to link the o2 sensors & their feedback. You could also be looking at some fuel delivery issues with regard to the missfires. So check your fuel line pressure at the fuel rail. You could & more than likely do have some fowling of your injectors unless you have maintained the system well. So if you don’t use a good fuel treatment like STA-BIL & Gumout’s Regane complete fuel system cleaner I would suggest doing so.
  3. Words can’t express my empathy for you & your friend! I have been there & it’s horrible! remember I’ve shown this one before! Accidents happen, but that’s not an accident. That’s a moron that shouldn’t have a license.
  4. Wouldn’t that be Old & Slow!? WAIT A MINUTE! It just hit me; JACK! SERIOUSLY! Frosty now has a grandson who, wait for it, is JACK FROST! Who woulda thunk! Only in Pontiacville!
  5. That is so cool! Congrats Frosty! Just don’t get the new snowball mixed up with your snow cone.
  6. Dawn, I don’t wish to discourage you, but I have worked on a many high pressure injection system & they can get complicated as well as expensive & involved. This was one of GM’s first production direct injection attempts in a car. 5 years after your car the systems got much less involved. I just think if you don’t understand how these systems work you could spend a lot of money needlessly & still not resolve the issue. let us know how you make out.
  7. I would believe you need a knowledgeable mechanic. Why? Unless you are very adept at troubleshooting a direct injection system, you’ll end up just being a part’s replacer! Which can get expensive quick. Without being there I would believe that the pressurizing pump that mounts to the upper front of the engine is causing the trouble. This pump increases the fuel pump supplied fuel from between 35psi to 155psi depending on engine rpm. Additionally the evac system is at the back of the car usually in the upper area behind a rear tire. This involves a vacuum canister & a pump. this is a high pressure pump for a Solstice.
  8. Welcome to the site Dawn. What code? There are a lot of codes for fuel pressure, P0089, P0090, P0091, P0092, P00C6, P00C8, P00C9, etc, etc. So knowing what particular code would help to start. There may be more than one. There may also be codes set for miss fires as a result of the fuel issue. You should also check the pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
  9. As I continue with Last Indian winters projects, which will undoubtedly continue into late spring, maybe even summer. While building the back valve cover setup I decided to change the overall concept. Just getting started.
  10. I gotta admit; who really cares?! I know I don’t! NASCAR is not NASCAR anymore! Period! In my day we called it IROC! That’s were you control the rules so tightly the all the cars are built exactly the same no difference! That’s what NASCAR is today. NASCAR was supposed to be about individual ingenuity & engineering, set within a loose framework of rules to see not only who was the best driver, but the best innovative engineer. Which meant sometimes the best engineered car with a fairly good driver could beat the best drive. Today, the only drivers who win are the ones lucky enough to still have a car that rolls at the end of the race. Sad! Really sad! Woke takes you nowhere, but loserville!
  11. Kiwi, depends on the condition of the aluminum. If it’s still bright, looks fully polished, but has a bit of a haze, you know like aluminum gets after sitting in the weather for a bit. I use simichrome! Good sh- - ! Wear gloves though as the chemistry can bother some folks. If it’s worse than that you need to rebuff it with a buffing motor & pad & buffing compound. If it’s really bad you may need to wet sand with very fine grit. The courses grit should be no more than 1000 & from there move to 1200 than 2500. Than start buffing. If the valve covers look like the air cleaner I think the simichrome would work fine.
  12. No, but they will be crunchy & I guarantee they will have some bite!
  13. Getting started on the finned valve cover top for the rear valve cover. Anybody need some aluminum chips?
  14. Ok, it might not seem that way, but matching a small right hand facing Indian head to a left hand facing Indian head, might not seem that difficult! Well it’s always a pain to hand make a second piece. And to make a opposite second piece is even a bigger pain. Than the size really complicates it. None the less here they are.
  15. I believe it goes in the rear oil hole. 🫣 ZDDP? Yes it does have Zippity Doo Dah Performance. Which last through the “break in”!
  16. Welcome! Every bit of what JustA said. If you’re not sure ask. If it doesn’t sound right to you ask again! And pictures are, you know, worth a 1000 words.
  17. Welcome ! Nice Judge! There’s a guy on here who’s a little frosty, but he has the Jury!
  18. Oil!! Who needs stinking oil?! JustA throw some Vaseline on it! 🥴
  19. Ditto, Ditto. No VSS in a “70s” /2nd gen F body! All where gear driven speedo cable to an analog gage.
  20. Oh he’s got a connection, but not to Waterford, the other part! But, under which car?
  21. Well I would if I could, but it’s not 2020 anymore, so not a good idea! JustA knew what I meant! He’s a patriot, & a good one. Let’s JustA say someone who truly speaks the truth, was really close to JustA’s hometown yesterday! In this very moment & in this time, there is a book that never lies. It says the truth is cast to the ground & it names who does it! AND it’s not the one who was in Waterford township yesterday!
  22. I’m thinking JustA is smiling ear to ear tonight! Waterford township, Mi. Elite jet center!!
  23. That sounds like a good choice! You probably have thought of this already, but if not, wire. What ever gage you buy & that will most likely be more than one. Consider silicone coated or PVC coated wire because of it’s flexibility. They also make multi wire jacketed wire in PVC, which is flexible & would actually help you to reduce wire runs to the same area.
  24. That’s it Peter! You put your pissed off hat on & show those little electrons who there messing with! Its a lot of work & detail, but oh so worth it. Are you leaving those bulkheads & just going to go from the interior side of the car? If you are, clean those male bulkheads/terminals up with some fine soft steel wool. Then spray them with some LPS 1 & let them sit for a day or two. Then wash them down with some alcohol, not beer, but isopropyl! And let dry. The female side is a little more difficult. Get some 280 grit wet & dry carborundum paper & cut & fold it so it will go in to the female terminal with minimal effort. Then slide it in & out. This will help clear out corrosion & debris. Then once again spray with LPS1 & let sit, then the alcohol thing again. When you put them back together use petroleum jelly liberally on the terminals. This material is not a dielectric, but does help those type of terminals connect & it also prevents corrosion.
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