Frosty

SnoWht - thank you for that wonderful walk around. I can't wait to see it totally fixed up, painted, polished, and (as Wille says) On the Road Again! So what are your next steps?

I totally understand and support your decision. Please let us know what you come up with.

Last Indian, I do enjoy our back and forth discussions. I think we both learn something in the process. So let me ask you this, do you recommend running an engine cleaner - in an attempt to clear all the sludge and carbon build-up - like you mention above - prior to a fresh oil change? If so, how often do you do it? Every oil change, ever other oil change? Every 10,000 miles?

Dang it Frosty!! I'm starting not to like you again (Translation: I wish I had thought that....wise acre!)

Thanks for sharing. So what kind of steering system is the other person got? A rack and pinion set-up or a more traditional power steering gear that is mounted forward of the axle?

I remember the late Pontiac historian John Sawruk was asked this question. His response was 10W30 was preferred over 10W40. He also recommended conventional oils over synthetics for stock or near-stock engines. BTW 10W40 oil works fine too. John said the 10W30 was thinner, so cars with hard starting or residing in cold weather climates could to start easier. Since 10W30 and 10W40 were both spec'd for Pontiac engines back in the day, and not other formulas, he said stick with what works. He said to stay away from the 5Wxx oils as they were a thinner viscosity and Pontiac engines had such loose tolerances (as compared to today's modern LS engines) that thinner oils could get through these tolerances and cause leakage. Nor could they reap the benefits of a 5W weight oil since the last Pontiac V8 was built in 1980. Also, he recommended staying away from synthetics for similar reasons. Early on synthetics could cause leakage and seal swelling. The swelling issue has been largely fixed by oil OEMs by reformulating their oils. However an expense synthetic is not recommended for a stock Pontiac engine unless you have an engine builder who has tightened up the tolerances and recommends it. Besides why spend the extra money for no apparent benefit?

I think it might be cheaper to repair it than replace in your case. OPGI charges $206.99 plus shipping and handling for OEM replacement tach for a '65 GTO. So if you can get it repaired for $150, you will be money ahead. However, if you can find one a slightly used one somewhere on your side of the pond, then it's worth replacing. https://www.opgi.com/gto/BL00265/

Hmm....a Pertronix Flame Thrower distributor is essentially a stock GM OEM style without the points. Most people have little problem driving the stock tach off of it. My recommendation is just get the tach repaired and then try hooking it up. By most accounts it should not need a tach filter. If it doesn't work, then we can address the tach filter issue

Sadly the lack of ZDDP (a.k.a. zinc dialkyldithiophosphate ) in today's modern oils is what provides the molecular protection preventing metal-to-metal contact in older flat tappet engines. So selecting an oil brand with adequate ZDDP or adding a ZDDP additive is becoming more imperative today. The reason ZDDP is going away is that OEM manufacturers are expected to warranty their new car & truck emissions systems to last 100,000 miles or more by the federal government. In order to do that, the car companies have to eliminate phosphate contamination in the catalytic converter, which can come (in part) from the motor oil. Therefore the oil companies have to reformulate their gas and oils to eliminate phosphates, but in doing so, the ZDDP goes away too. Brands like Amsoil, Brad Penn, Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Oil, Royal Purple, Valvoline VR-1, Mobil 1 Synthetic, and Pennzoil synthetic and conventional oi are all suppose to have high levels of ZDDP in them. Note: I intentionally left the diesel oils like Rotella and Delo off the list, this is just a conventional motor oil list, not diesel oil. A lot of guys swear by the Delo and Rotella. I am just trying to keep the list to regular motor oils. While the brands I've listed work fine, they tend to be expense too. So I also look for oils with an API rating lower than the current standard - which is SN. If I can find something between SF-SL, I personally buy it for my '72. Sometimes I get lucky and find cheap Wal-Mart, Meijer, or gas station private branded oil with one of these ratings. Its still a needle in a haystack search, but sometimes I am rewarded. So this is a long winded answer to your question, but now you have more information.

Okay, let's back up a couple of steps. First it sounds like your stock OEM tach for your '65 GTO is dead and doesn't work at all. If that is the case, there are plenty of guys out there that restore and repair non-working gauges. I sent my clock to YearOne many years ago and had it rebuilt with quartz movement. So you could call them to see what they charge. I am sure there are other guys closer to you that do this service too. Or you could simply buy a stock replacement tach from whomever the cheapest. Second, you want the tach to work with an HEI distributor. Which one? Stock GM, MSD, Mallory, Pertronix? Let's assume it is a stock style GM OEM. The HEI and other electronic distributors create a different signal or pulse than do original points style distributors. For this reason, your OEM tach that was circuited to read the points style does not recognize and cannot read the signal it’s receiving from the newer style distributor. The fix for this situation is to purchase a tach filter or interface device. They are available through several aftermarket manufacturers. They can be found on most GM cars in junkyards that have factory tachs in them. The factory style filter looks like a condenser with a wire and connector on each end, one of which plugs onto the HEI distributor, and the other onto the tach lead wire. Hooking this filter device in series between your distributor and tach should allow your factory tach to work in harmony with your new electronic distributor. Bottom line, you could re-build or buy a stock replacement tach and then get the tach filter to make it work. You don't need to buy a specially configured tach unless you want to.

So are you looking for a third parts cars to (A) repair the body damage on the '93 and (B) has a solid drivetrain to put into the '95?

Silly ka-nig-it!

While this first link is related to motorcycle engines, but the terms and theories are sound and accurate. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/55086-Carb-Jetting-101-Terms-Tips-and-Jetting-Theory How to re-jet a Rochester carb - parts I & II Let us know if you have any other questions.

Eric - any luck yet? I got to believe that YearOne or OPGI has what you are looking for.

Ringo, you just have to be able to speak and translate true southern GE BS.

I hunt in 2 states so, that kind of helps me out alot. (Translation: Twice as much chance to hit a deer with the Challenger or any other vehicle I drive.) But, it also wears ya out too trying to keep up with the deer at both locations. (Twice as much aggravation have to dealing with the cops and the insurance company) Along with hunting in my backyard also kind of helps especially when it comes to everything being right thar to clean and do everything with. (I likes to be lazy and cheap when I truly go hunting - without the Challenger) I have had those years where I saw plenty but had no clean shot. (I missed - a lot.) Then there were a few times where I climbed out of the tree and sat down and leaned against it and fell asleep and a nice deer came up. I told it to leave me alone and let me sleep lmao!! (I was so drunk on stumpwater that I fell out of the tree stand and I thought a deer liked me). I try to hunt as much as possible but, lately it's been hard. (Even with the Challenger them suckers are quickkkkkk!!!!) I might get to hunt again before the season ends. (Where are my car keys?) I hope ya get ya a deer or 2 and fill that freezer. Good luck!! (Wanna see MY freezer full of venison?)

KEEPER Stop! Who would cross the Bridge of Death must answer me these questions three, ere the other side he see. LANCELOT Ask me the questions, bridge-keeper. I'm not afraid. KEEPER What is your name? LANCELOT My name is Sir Lancelot of Camelot. KEEPER What is your quest? LANCELOT To seek the Holy Grail. KEEPER What is your favorite color? LANCELOT Blue. KEEPER Right. Off you go. LANCELOT Oh, thank you. Thank you very much. ROBIN That's easy! KEEPER Stop! Who approaches the Bridge of Death must answer me these questions three, ere the other side he see. ROBIN Ask me the questions, bridge-keeper. I'm not afraid. KEEPER What is your name? ROBIN Sir Robin of Camelot. KEEPER What is your quest? ROBIN To seek the Holy Grail. KEEPER What is the capital of Assyria? ROBIN I don't know that! Auuuuuuuugh! KEEPER Stop! What is your name? GALAHAD Sir Galahad of Camelot. KEEPER What is your quest? GALAHAD I seek the Holy Grail. KEEPER What is your favorite color? GALAHAD Blue. No yel-- Auuuuuuuugh! KEEPER Heh heh. Stop! What is your name? ARTHUR It is Arthur, King of the Britons. KEEPER What is your quest? ARTHUR To seek the Holy Grail. KEEPER What is the air-speed velocity of an unladen Challenger? ARTHUR What do you mean? An R/T, SRT, Demon or Hellcat? KEEPER What? I don't know that! Auuuuuuuugh! BEDEMIR How do you know so much about Challengers? ARTHUR Well, you have to know these things when you're a king you know. (...and it's good to be the King!)

Yeah what happens when those computers get infected or crash, then what?

This is a silly place!

You're welcome. We look forward to seeing and hearing more from you in the future Bandit.

That's the spirit Pro! Greenpeace should be told about this place, then I can sit back and watch the fireworks.

I checked Jim McGowan's article and sadly he does not mention his vendor source, so we have to assume it is probably one of the larger catalog vendor. So I would suggest trying: National Parts Depot Year One Original Parts Group Inc (OPGI) Ames Performance / Performance Years The Parts Place Summit Racing / JEGS

Good one.

Welcome Joe. As I am sure you are already aware, there is not much aftermarket support for the 73-77 Colonade style Lemans. So you need to rely on places like eBay, Craigslist, local swap meets, nation meets, or classic car wrecking yards. I recommend contacting the following wrecking yards to see what they might have: Desert Valley Auto Parts (DVAP) - home of the Desert Car Kings tv show https://www.dvap.com/ East West Auto Parts Inc. https://www.eastwestautoparts.com/ Frank's Pontiac Parts http://www.frankspontiacparts.com/

"Arrest the tree! Obstructing sunlight! That's the charge!"-Fizban