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Pontiac of the Month

FBIRD69's 1969 Firebird

2024 March
of the Month

steveeoaktree

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Everything posted by steveeoaktree

  1. Well JUSTA. I went out today, and plugged off every vacuum line that went to the air cleaner (or the ones that I thought did) and pulled the "t" off the vac advance, and ran straight ported manifold vacuum to it. I wanted to block off the fast idle and choke vacuum lines as well, but didn't. She fired right up and drove MUCH better. No more popping back thru the carb, etc... Still a tad of hesitation, but I think that I can fine tune that out. I found a "hole" in the intake between the carb and therm housing that has what looks like a straight pcv valve stuck in it with a hose going up to a 90 degree fitting in front of the carb that also goes into the intake...?? Their connected but both are in the intake? It doesn't look right to me. I will scour the 'net some more for a better, more thorough vacuum line diagram as I am sure that when it gets cold, I'll need them hooked up. At least now it'll run ok, so I can focus on the sunroof and interior issues before winter!
  2. Somehow I forgot how to post a picture so here's a link to a Ford that's totally wicked. There were some of the best looking musclecars made down under... http://www.aussiecoupes.com/xa-xb-xc.html
  3. Hey here y'all I reckon I should post the interior work that I am finally getting around to here... Just in case y'all haven't seen the state of the interior I'll post a cpl pics. The trim that goes from the "fisher" area to the headliner literally has mostly just eroded away... the best way that I can put it. Dingy white interior with a split bench and no carpet or headliner as well as a hole needing pan replacement. I found some goodies at the Local junkyard such as the entire left side panels, both "body by fisher" pieces, all of the headliner trim, and all of the trim that connects it together as well. Both black visors too. ( for 40 bucks) I am returning Thursday (next day off) to get both buckets, the console and shifter, and both sets of door hinges to rebuild. I am also going to TRY to get the headliner out without damaging it as it's in perfect condition. The buckets will need totally restored, but no biggie- there all there, back vinyl trim covers and all. So I sanded and painted all of the vertical trim as some were very faded and brittle and will post those as well. More updates later fellas!! Thanks for reading. Stevee
  4. about 800... its when im trying to drive it .. when accelerating at stoplights, especially after its warm.
  5. Well fellas, I will finally have some more time Saturday to get to tweaking the issues with the '76 GP's idle/accel issues. Started with running terrible and popping back through the carb. After a new fuel pump (smelled fuel in the oil), wix inline filter and new lines, and 2 Rochester carb rebuilds (soaked the parts overnight in the carb solvent the 2nd time as well as installing a new brass float), re gapped the new plugs to .045 that were gapped at .080 by the seller, new vaccum lines, and I also have the new pcv valve and lines (there wasn't one) to install Sat. It now accelerates MUCH better, but idles like it wants to die at stoplights (and does die sometimes) but starts right back up. I thought maybe to tweak the vaccum lines to see how they work best b/c some diagrams show a "t" going to the vac advance with one going to the manifold, and the other going to the carb... and some diagrams just show a single line to the carb. I also don't know it the missing pcv would cause any minor idling or accelerating issues, but I do know that it should be there. the timing is solid. I am going to drain the tank again and refill it with 89 octane fuel to also see if that helps. I am curious though, as it seems to only try to die after it's warmed up. I know there is a choke internal in the intake but it's tough to find a diagram specific enough to list all of the line connections for a 1976 400 2bbl... (most show them for the 4 bbl) If any of y'all have any tips, I'll surely give them a try either tomorrow after work, or Saturday when I do the rest... Have interior pieces to dye inbetween as well so it should be a great Poncho day -- just would feel much better if I could get this baby to run smooth! She's sooo close... Thank y'all for your time, and all of the guidance that you've given. Stevee
  6. steveeoaktree

    First Grand Prix pics

    These are the first pics that I have of the GP! I hope to make some gains in her condition before winter.
  7. After further searches, I found that Ames has a ton of stuff for many older makes and models. I'm also going today to strip the interior out of a '76 SJ at a local junkyard. Surprisingly he has 6 of them among many classics... (The only thing saving them from the crusher is the difficult location they're in) I will post pictures of the ol' GP's interior as well as the junkyards location and number if he doesn't mind -- for anyone in the Midwest looking for parts. Was shocked that for the price of 1 door panel online, I am getting the entire interior. More later fellas.
  8. I can tell you from recent experience that that same issue on my '76 400 was the carb. After soaking all the parts overnight, I reassembled it with a new BRASS float (not them neoprene ones) and that took care of the hesitation issues. But the fellas are correct, there are many other issues that could cause it. If you do decide to rebuild the carb, there are some great videos from Mikes carb out there to take you step by step. Good luck!
  9. That '79 was one that I have been admiring for awhile now... but that safari... beautiful. Good luck to y'all 3
  10. Well another update... After the plug gapping, I finally decided to pull both valve covers and do a bit of investigating... Besides the fact that the valve cover bolts were barely finger tight, I cannot find any issues with the valvetrain. Every rocker arm has basically the same amount of oil sitting in the "cup" above the valve springs, and it's obvious that there is plenty of oil flow to all 8 on the top end. I could spin some push rods where the valves were closed, but nothing sloppy or broken. Before re installing the valve covers though, I'm going to have a friend start the engine while I watch the movement of the valvetrain just to be sure. My brain keeps going back to the 2 c's though. Carb and Coil.... Well if all is well with the valvetrain, I'll get the new brass float installed when it arrives, and go from there. BTW, does anyone know how many wires should be plugging into the bottom of the H.E.I.? There was a single multi plug (that goes across the unit) and then a single wire plug that plugged in behind it... Thanks y'all
  11. I bought the repair kit for the drivers' side door hinge pin bushings and am going to try to tackle it this weekend. I have done the single pin style before, but these hinges have dual pins in them... I was wondering if anyone has tackled these on the vehicle before? Gonna use the screw jacks to hold the door up (to take the pressure off the pins) but I'm wondering if I should just take the door off to make it easier. There appears to be a weld along the top of the hinge (or a bead of something) which is why I wanted to avoid taking the hinges off the car.. Have looked online but no luck finding any direction on this style of hinge.. Thanks y'all
  12. Yeppir, all the plug wires are new, and correct. It always idled perfectly, but I just didn't consider that someone would install plugs with a gap set at .085... Thanks!
  13. I wouldn't have thought it, but they checked out between .085 and .090 !! I knew that he put a new set in before shipping the car, but I can't believe that he gapped them that wide. I went through so many other things before checking this... ha ha. The recommended gap on the new plugs that I just installed was .060, but there were a few brands/styles that were .045 though. I guess that I shouldn't be surprised after the crankcase full of gasoline (fuel pump), or the mismatched set of plug wires that were on the car when I got her... I replaced the wires, cap, and rotor when I first got the car along with the fuel pump, (after smelling the fuel in the oil during the oil and filter change). New inline wix fuel filter, replaced all of the rubber fuel line with new gates 3/8' line, and rebuilt the carb (twice). The only thing that I'm still waiting on is the new brass float to replace the black foam type...
  14. Another update... I stumbled upon the ac delco spark plug boxes in the trunk that the seller had installed prior to shipping the car. They were marked .085...? Now even before looking it up, I knew that seemed awful wide. The factory spec is .060 for the plugs, which is considerably narrower. I hadn't considered that to be a variable, but at .085, it makes it nearly impossible for the coil to send a spark across that gap at anything more than an idle. Next day off, and they're getting re gapped, and replaced if they look bad.
  15. Well after I got the sunroof hole temporarily sealed, I tackled the vaccum lines and carb issues again. Bought new vac line and installed all as the diagram stated. (with the exception of the pcv as I have it on back order) The popping is gone, but if I even touch the throttle, it tries to die. ? The carb is rebuilt, although I didn't have the solvent or equipment to soak it like others do... I just cleaned it out with carb cleaner and checked as many ports as I could get to. I also couldn't replace the float as it's on baqck order too at o'reilly's. The old float has a "line" where it must've sat and the material even feels different from above to below that line. Checked fuel filter again too. Pump is new. It's almost acting like their isn't an accelerator pump at all...? (it came pre assemblewd in the rebuild kit). I guess that it's going to be another hefty $300 expense to get a rebuilt one... ha ha. She idles so smooth with no smoke or ticks... which is what throws me. If it were valvetrain oriented it'd have more symptoms.
  16. Here I am again turning to the experts... I methodically went through everything that I thought was necessary on a vehicle that is 40 years old and had sat for a while.. New plugs, cap, rotor, carb rebuild, fuel pump, oil change (and filter), and some seafoam in the tank along with adding a few gallons of fresh fuel. She's still "popping" or "stumbling" when I open the throttle. Runs perfectly smooth at idle, and "cruise" speeds. It's possible I reckon that I could've got the float drop set wrong or the float level..? I also am going to check the dizzy tomorrow along with checking all vac lines with the best diagram that I have so far... Fuel filter has also been changed. Due to how smooth it runs normally, I was trying to avoid looking into any serious valvetrain issues, well and the fact it has only 66,000 on her. I don't really know the tendencies or weaknesses of these particular years' of engines though. Any direction is appreciates! I was considering possibly there may be build up on the valves? Stevee
  17. Very true, something I hadn't considered as of yet. Removing the balance of the interior is probably the best choice... (The carpet and headliner is already out)
  18. I have been eyeing the ceramic engine paint from eastwood, as well as the elastiwrap products to use as a finish and protectant to get me through the winter. I have 95% of the body ready with the exception of doing away with the rear window chrome and fitting a more modern black seal to her... Thank y'all for all of the great advice! Man things sure have come a long way since doing a car in 1992... ha ha
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