rickmpontiac

Congratulations 360Rocket!!

Thanks again Frosty!  I’ll check with the other places you suggested.

Thanks Frosty! I spoke to Frank about this block soon after he acquired it. Frank says it will have to be bored .060. I was hoping to find one that can be bored 20-30, at the most. I keep an eye on Frank’s site for new arrivals. I appreciate you telling me about this one.

Searching for a 67 400 YS block, with a standard bore and casting date prior to October 1966. I know that’s probably wishful thinking to find one that fits all that criteria. Please let me know if you have something. I’m in the Dallas, Texas area.

Nominating Stratman’s 1981 Trans Am.

Thanks Pat!

Welcome to FP. Yep, we like to see pictures!

3 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I have experience removing fenders and  heater cores firewalls on my buddy's '68 Impala. This car didn't have air thoguh, but I know that removing the inner fender is start. What I am not sure about is can you  get to the left most bolts without removing the external fender completely.

Have you considered getting a GM shop manual for your car? That would give you the proper (e.g. GM) way to remove it - complete with exploded diagrams and instructions. They are available both in paper and on CDs. Money well spent in my opinion.

Thanks Frosty, Yes,  I have a copy of the body and service manuals for the car and that's way the replacement is described. Was just looking for experience that might indicate there's more to it than described, and  to see if there any 'gotchas' that might be good to know. 

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Rick - can't you just buy a new evaporator core from Classic Auto Air or Old Air? Granted, sending in a rebuild-able core helps lower your cost typically. I have to believe you should be able to buy a new one from one of these guys or somewhere else.

Hello Frosty - Yes, that's the plan. I was mostly looking for any experience that might validate my plan to get to the evaporator core by only removing the inner fender, and any experience with aftermarket replacements from someone like Old Air. Thanks for the input.

Welcome to FP. Great looking car, especially like the color 

Congratulations to everyone who were selected for this year's calendar. Too bad everyone who entered couldn't have been chosen. Great looking cars!!

Welcome to the group.

After replacing my A/C compressor it seems that my evaporator core may be leaking. After using the A/C the last time I noticed that the condensation that dripped on the floor of my garage was oily and had a green tint, probably from the leak detect PAG oil. There's also residue around the drain hole along the rear bottom edge of the right front fender. After some research and review of the Pontiac service manual, I'm planning to remove the inner fender and replace the evaporator core with a unit from Old Air. Just wondering if anyone has experience with this and has any advice to offer. Classic Auto Air offers a service to restore evaporator cores and the housing, but they require a core that doesn't leak.

I need to apologize to FredZeppelin for not getting a picture of his outstanding Grand Prix [emoji20]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It was a great show this year and always fun to combine a Pontiac event with Cavanaugh Flight Museum.

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Hey Rick,
I'm running a Sanden on my 69 and it works fine.  I have an issue with the fan in my aftermarket unit not moving enough air, but the air itself is nice and cool.
 
Bear

After a few weeks of ordering compressors and trying them, I finally found a true bolt on replacement. Be aware if you're interested in replacing your old GM A6 compressor with one of the modern aluminum body compressors that the Four Seasons style from Summit Racing will require modifications. The muffler mounting on the back of the Four Seasons style compressor is higher and causes issues with the rear bracket that goes between the compressor and the intake manifold. While it physically fits the aluminum bracket on the front and the lower triangle bracket, you will not be able to use the intake manifold bracket or the muffler mounting bracket.

I purchased a Pro6ten compressor from OldAir (manufactured by SunAir) , installed it over the weekend with new hoses and drier. Charged the system yesterday with R134a refrigerant and all seems to be good for now.

Sorry I posted in the wrong topic/area. Tried to find a way to delete it.

About sixteen months ago I had a local shop replace my A/C compressor with one they purchased from Ames Performance. The compressor included the clutch. I noticed sometime after the 90-day warranty that the compressor clutch pulley bearing was making noise. I replaced that and was amazed at how the old bearing looked. There's no way it was replaced during the 'remanufacturing' process. I removed the seals and cleaned the grease out of the bearing and it sounded like an old worn out axle bearing. So the noise issue was solved with a $25 bearing a few hours effort and some loaner tools from AutoZone.  Now the front seal is leaking already and slinging oil on the underside of my hood that I refinished last year.  I'm thinking about going with one of the aluminum ten cylinder compressors that supposedly replace the old GM A6 compressor with no modifications in hose mountings, brackets, etc. My question to the group is has anyone installed one of these aluminum compressors and if so, what was your experience with the fitment and overall satisfaction with the compressor,  its cooling capability, and the brand you used. I have already switched to the R134 refrigerant so that's not an issue with the replacement. Thanks in advance for any input you may have.

Sorry my mistake. Tried it from my phone and it goes to Rules. Tried again from a real computer and it works

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