Darth Menace

Okay, I found it and I am back from adjusting it. Unfortunately loosening that bolt, pushing the rod up and re-tightening didn't work, in fact it made it worse and now it won't even go into park by turning the collar anymore. I have a few questions, the rod is almost pushed right to the top of the collar so am I suppose to push it up more even if it made it worse in the grand scheme of things? Also, is that bolt suppose to be super snug against the metal there, or is there suppose to be some slack, because when I tighten the bolt it holds the rod in tight but there is still some room before the bolt sits tightly against the metal. Is this just trial and error...like just keep fiddling with it until it works or is there something possible up elsewhere?

edited

Thanks for the help guys. My car is currently at the body shop so I can't work on it right now. Going by that dark picture I am not exactly sure where this mystery bolt is, but once I get it back I will take a closer look and hopefully I can get this thing straightened out. Thanks again for now

This is the online instructions that were given to me by a local Pontiac club member. I am a visual learner and pretty new to these cars and that picture is pretty dark that I have no idea where he is talking about. Below are his instructions and picture: "The shifter linkage is tied to the transmission. On the other end which shows up in picture....where the blue circle is the adjustment for the rod I was talking about. Loosen bolt and push up all the way and retighten bolt. Should fix the issue"

yes, I believe this is what originally happened. I replaced the grounds and installed a new shifter cable. The shifter goes in and out of gears perfectly, BUT when I park it, it is still in reverse until I slightly turn the collar by the steering wheel then it goes into park. I have been told there is a way to lightly adjust the cable up by the steering column, but I don't know how, which is where I am at now. I can't find anything in my 69 Pontiac repair manual, but have been told it is possible, but not how to do it.

Hello, sorry for taking so long to reply...I didn't get any email saying it was replied to and I have been busy with work/other cars. I have since bought a cable, it shifts perfectly from Park to all the gears with no issues. However, when I try to put it back into park, it decides to stay into neutral until I put it in park manually via the collar behind the steering wheel. The cable itself does not have any form of adjustment, but I have been told there is a way to adjust it while in park, so it goes in smoothly back into park. Does anyone have any information on how I go about doing this? I haven't been able to find anything online explaining this process. Thanks

I took the console off, and undid the cotter pin and rod as pointed out in the picture below. The shifter then went forward and back without a problem. I don't know where this makes the issue lie, but I guess this means it is not the physical shifter

It is currently in park but will not go into Reverse. I am not sure about Drive, etc because I cannot get it out of Park. The shifter just won't move.

Hey guys my car has a TH400. It has been parked since October, and I have not done anything to the transmission (what I did do though is take off the shifter knob so I could get the panel up and replace the shifter PRNDSL insert. Maybe something got messed up there?). Now that I have everything finished I was advised by my mechanic to take it for a nice rip before I take it in to get the out of province inspection done. Yesterday I fired it up and just for kicks I was doing to put it into reverse and back it out. Oddly, it wouldn't go into reverse. Fluid level is fine and there were no issues prior to this. I wanted to ask about this prior to getting too worried as I have gotten flustered before and it was a simple fix. I then took the housing off and it still wouldn't go into reverse, and nothing looked out of the oridinary

I am in the same mind-set as you. I don't appreciate being ripped off, or anyone else for that matter. But I have gone to many a car show where I looked at a car and wanted to puke in my mouth, but wouldn't dream of telling that person. I have yet to understand how a clone is complete garbage yet the real thing is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Sure, the one is worth more and original, but that that doesn't make them complete opposite ends of the spectrum. Anyway, sorry for my off topic. Once I get the car out and inspected I will get some pictures alone and with my Viper. I am so excited to take my family out for a cruise in this beast. Thanks again for the help.

Ya, this is truly great news. I have never had an issue end up being the little thing, so I am super happy that this was the case. I had tried everything except for that so i did it in desperation. The car should be on the road in May at the latest, but I will see how soon the tune can get done then I just have to get the wheel well back on since I replaced the heater core. I tend not to post pictures on forums too much of this car as it is a GTO clone and I don't like reading what some purists say about other people's clone cars so I don't want to read it about mine.

Frosty, I got it working, Turns out it was a bad socket..the second I swapped it it lit up. Thanks so much for your help. Your write-ups and documents are very in depth and I thank you so much for helping me with this

Thanks for the info. That sheet is pretty much bang on from the one in my 69 repair manual. It is knowledgeable people like you that have helped the rookies like me actually make progress on this car. I will give these things a test, but I know I am missing something. I believe it is safe to assume that it is not the circuit board considering this worked not long ago when I had a bad braking system. I don't know though obviously so I will do all these tests and get back to you. I know I am not getting any power at the tan wire where it plugs into the brake switch. One last note...if it is the circuit, is there a way to run a wire directly to the bulb in the cluster?

No, that is correct. The brake light does not come on when the e-brake is pressed down. I have looked at everything I can think of, without fully understanding the e-brake system itself. -I replaced the switch.. -The bulb works, and I have tried numerous bulbs that work -Today I grounded the tan wire on the e-brake system and the wire that goes to the brake junction box. I was told this would likely make the light go on....but neither options worked. I am completely stumped.

Hello, I am onto my last project until I am able to get this car on the road, barring any other issues that may pop up. I am completely stuck on this one and am reaching out to see if anyone has any further suggestions. When I press the e-brake, the light on the dash does not light up...this is a no no when it comes to the provincial inspection. A few days ago I took a quick peek to see if I could find the issue. The test light showed that I was getting power to the tan wire, but nothing past that. I fiddled with the e-brake switch and it kind of crumbled in my hands. This made me happy, because I thought there was no way that the brake switch wasn't the issue. I bought a new brake switch and replaced it, but nothing changed. Now I just want to clarify that the brake light on the dash did light up when I first had the car...this was because there was issues with the brake system. Today I checked the bulb with the rear side marker socket and it worked fine...so the bulb is not the issue. From what I understand the ignition has to be in the on position for it to be able to work. Like I mentioned when I first started ti play with this issue, I was getting power to the tan wire. Now today, when I played around with it, I am no longer getting power to the tan wire. I assume this tan wire is the wire that comes out and plugs into the brake's junction box (if that is what the correct term is), but this wire is black on my car...I am thinking it is because of paint that was put on it back in the day. If this is the wire, I did make sure that the wire was tightly plugged into the junction box. I looked in the pontiac repair manual I have, and I cannot see where they touch on how this e-brake light system works and how to troubleshoot it. Am I missing something here? It is likely an easy fix as it doesn't seem like there is a lot to this, but changing the brake switch didn't solve it like I thought it would. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Guys, sorry I didn't reply. I didn't get an email saying my thread was replied to, so I never thought of checking. I apologize for not replying after all this. I promise I will be more vigilant in checking so I don't appear to be a thankless poster. Anyway, back to my story. It ends up last week I was working on this, and it ends up it is working. I replaced the fuse, cleaned the fuse holder, etc, and it started to work. I am so pumped. I can't pin-point where the issue was and how it started to work, but I am guessing that it might have been due to the fact that my front exterior lighting was a tad off, and when I fixed that issue(my other project), the dash lights started to work. Now that the exterior lighting and dash is working, I just have one more light issue to take care of (and I will keep that for another thread) Thanks for the help guys...I am almost done this damn car and it should be on the road soon!

Finished the exterior lighting issues, replaced both drive/accessory belts, and started to hone in on my dash light issues. Oh yeah, and installed floor mats

In the garage after the paint job.

hey guys, I am new to this group. I thought I would introduce myself and show you what I have. Some of you purists won't like it, but it is what it is. I bought this online in Sept 2013 and it needed some work. I worked on it the winter of 2013/14, then send it to a school for 6 months while they did the paint, and all new weatherstripping/window-felts, emblems, etc. This winter I did completely new front and rear suspension and am tidying up everything so it will pass inspection. Right now I have to fix the dash lighting (see in the tech request threads), and I don't know how to properly mount the rear view mirror. After I am done those projects, all I have to do is just put the wheel well back on from the heater core change and then bleed the brakes. Life is looking good after the long amount of time I have spent on it. Anyway, here are some pictures of both my babies.

hey guys, first time poster here. I have a 69 Custom S convertible cloned into a GTO. I have been working on some issues over last winter and this, but I have one last issue I cannot solve. The dash lights dont work and have never worked since I bought the car. The dimmer switch (I forget the real name) was replaced but it didn't help. Recently I took my test light and tested both sides of the fuse. Unfortunately the right side lit up and the left side was dead. Thinking it could be the physical left part of the fuse holder was bad, I hooked an alligator clamp to the left side, and another clamp to the left side of the taillight fuse. Much to my happiness, the dash lit completely up. Which leads me to think it is a wiring issue, but I dont know where. The wiring from the fuse to the dash is obviously good, but I can't find any issue otherwise. I was thinking to try to take the fuse panel off, but for one I couldnt figure out how, and I don't want to take it off which may in turn unplug other wires and cause a wiring gremlin (again). Are there any suggestions on where to look? I was thinking I might be able to piggyback it off another fuse, but I doubt that is safe, and the dash lights stay on even when the headlights are off (when I have the two fuzes clamped together as mentioned above. Any help would be great. I am almost done this beast and want to have it all straightened out and on the road by May