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What are the chances of two 1951 Pontiac Super Deluxes showing up at thr Rock and Roll Capital Street Machines weekly show on 9-3-2019 in Solon, OH? One’s a convertible, the other’s a hardtop.

I mowed and trimmed my yard for the first time this year....Depending on the weather...That will be a weekly chore from now until October..Doesn't look like there will be any racing at our local venue (Bowman Gray Stadium)anytime in the foreseeable future So the prepping the car has been put off indefinitely especially since the Modified race at Martinsville and probably Bristol have been canceled too..So instead I have been doing a weapons check and ammunition inventory...Found some firearms that I had almost forgotten about that I stashed away years ago...Including a pre WW2 Colt 1911 45 auto pistol and a mint condition Model 86 Winchester 45-70 lever action rifle with an Octagon barrel with a real low serial number manufactured in 1891 (Very valuable) among several others...Fortunately my job is considered essential and I will still be able to work..Although business has taken a major nose dive as of late....So will just have to wait and see what happens next...

Really JustA doing the usual! House upgrades, in & out, yard work, lots of yard work! To many dam plants & trees! Oh and the Indian Work. Waiting for better weather to paint & tinkering with some changes to the center of my steering wheel, haven’t made up my mind as to which why I’m going to go! current center more to be done to both of these before I decide!

Harry say's you have Justa nuff firewood. Awesome patio.......

My GP came from the factory with a vinyl roof. By the time the car came to Australia, it had gone. As a result, my roof is a mixture of faded paint, old vinyl glue, rust and patches where the paint has disappeared and the metal has oxidised, turning black. So, being on my regular tight budget and armed only with sandpaper, several paint cleaning compounds and lots of elbow grease, I have begun the tedious time consuming process of bringing my roof paint back to life. If you have a similar circumstance and don't yet have the funds for fresh paint, you can try this: Because the paint was in such poor condition, I started with 80 grit wet, eventually working down to 400, then 1200. Cutting compound, then a good quality cut & polish (I use T Cut) then a final clean with regular cut & polish, and finally a coating of wax. Have a look...

My 80 Sunbird (JUSTA6) and matching trailer. Justa 6 N Justa66 hangin out

On the door trim the chrome trim along the bottom was missing( i have a replacement) and when i removed the door card i could see why it was missing... the card was buggered. i will need to make a new one and transfer all the upholstery over to the new door card

So then i hit the door with my pro tools,,, hammer wood dollys , pretty much got it all out and it will need a small tickle after i take the paint off.( this is not my trade, i am a plumber/gas fitter) i did have to strip all the window out of the door too and found a window mount broken, will get that sorted tomorrow 🤨 but i have made a start, its going be hard with out materials but lets see how we go, i do have quiet a bit of gear that may help. i just cant get her into the shed just yet, so i will try and leave as much paint on as i can since its autumn here.

The muck metal trim along the bottom had a small dent and i managed to press it out with a bit of timber and the vise

After a shower 😁 it was parked for a weeks

Thank you all and here in Kuwait yes we have alot of pontiacs , about our cars ...that judge was restored year ago , also the 77 and 71 trans ams they had older restoration in the 2000s and they will be fully restored soon every winter season we work on a car 😁 and all matching numbers

Back in October. Last show she was in.

Hi all, just thought i would ask whats everyone doing to stop the boredom. and thought i would start........ its Sunday here so the wife and i decided to have pizza night

not sure what the boss is making mate... hopefully something with meat on it ! ,, she does the prep all i have to do is cook them, which takes just 1.30mins extra thin base too, which will crisp up really nice 👍

Thanks Last Indian! I will now scowl at my distributor with nenewed vigour, as it sits at the back of the engine, defiant, grinning at me as I grunt & strain to see where I should put the points! I sorta figured that the Pontiac manifold distanced itself from engine heat, and we all know that a cooler inlet charge is good for power, so I'll now look at THAT with a different set of eyes too. Clearly, because I'm self isolating at the moment, I have too much time hence peering into my engine bay and asking questions! I hope we're all doing the right thing and staying at home. The best way to stop the virus is to prevent it finding new hosts. Keep pottering with your cars, guys. It may transpire that the ICE actually helped save the human race, rather than tried to kill it off!

Peter, if I may? First off, nothing you’ve done should offend anyone! It’s your car you should do exactly what pleases you! Period! Besides, you’ve saved another poncho! You’re posing a question so I answered it, nothing more. With regard to the distributor question. No engine is perfect, some come closer than others and to some degree I think that is proven by a specific engines longevity. The Cleveland was a good motor, but as an overall motor, meaning beyond standard production cars, it fell short! It had several issues, that could be overcome with extensive work, but never really gave back in power for the effort when compared the Pontiac or Chevy. That said you can actually build a GM V8 with the distributor up front! The main reason to set a distributor in the rear of an engine of a rear wheel drive front mounted engine is protection of the electronic brain! Is it necessary? Probably not! In the end though, those engines dominate the car market, race market and more, for more than three decades virtually unchanged, that’s domination! And yes, I’m not a big guy, so I have actually sat inside an engine compartment at times or laid on a covered fender to work on a engine. With respect to the Pontiac manifold design! Just shear genius! There is a whole world of physics around that design principle. It all deals with principles of fuel delivery, vaporization of fuel, density of the charge, volumetric efficiency and separating that from the rest of the engines thermal impact. In essence these are two different worlds that should never meet, except in the combustion chamber, which to a greater extent is why direct fuel injection can actually deliver more power than port injection or carburation.

Goodness me, I hope a Pontiac purist never inspects my car- they'll pick it to pieces, what with it's incorrect headlining, exhaust cutouts and flat brake pedal - it's my very own Pont-enstein. I am astounded by your answer, and am grateful that you took the time to respond and am equally astounded by the engineering behind a curved brake pedal. Simple, elegant innovation - once the driving force behind the auto industry, now robot assembled characterless bubbles with a life expectancy of 5 years or so. So, can you tell me why GM put the bloody distributor at the BACK of the engine, in a black painted engine bay, where anyone less than 7 feet tall will never see what's inside the dizzy without actually physically climbing on top of the engine? I remember tuning my old Cleveland V8s and how easy it was to adjust points with the dizzy front & centre of the engine. And the inlet manifold? Are there improvements in flow and breathing from that distinctive Pontiac design? I must admit, I enjoy peering into the inky blackness of my engine bay and marvelling at all the unique characteristics that my car displays.

Yes the original pedal was curved! I believe most of the pre 1990 car pedals were curved, clutch & brake. Some more than others, but still curved not flat! The two reasons I believe are simple. One as you push down on the pedal it goes through an arch. The curved pedal allows your foot to stay in contact with the pedal as it goes through the arch better than a flat surface, this is a proven fact. Secondly an curved surface allows greater psi pressure on the pad surface, not pedal pressure, but pressure on the pedal surface. Which minimizes the tendency for your foot to slide of the pedal, aka a type of hydroplaning if you will and this does actually happen. As I’ve said before, the old timers were pretty dam smart, not so much today! Now most pedals are flat, which is why that’s what you are use to seeing!

My wife and mother-in-law both had one. They both loved them. They did what they were made for. The media has vilified the cars as "angry dumpsters on wheels" (that's the worst review I read at least). Its unfair but that's now what people have been lead to believe. As you know, people who owned them, loved them. The aftermarket has not singled out the Aztek for lack of performance upgrades, but rather, most FWD platforms in general. With the possible exception of the supercharged 3800s, you find very little aftermarket parts for virtually any FWD GM, Ford, and Chrysler product. An occasional header or cold air kit is about it. Let's face it, FWD cars and SUVs are not considered muscle cars or trucks and thus (so says the aftermarket) not deserving of our love (e.g. abundance of products). So to trick out an Aztek, you have to be creative. Old hot rodding tricks come into play here. To lower it, you will have to get custom springs made - I am not a fan of cutting springs to shorten them. A new custom cam grind for your motor. A cold air kit - you may have to make from a universal kit. You may have to have someone make a custom set of headers and an exhaust. Find someone to re-flash your ECM. Upgrade your brakes to drilled and slotted rotors and upgraded pads. Go thru your vehicle's control arms and body bushing and replace any damaged or deflected bushings to reduce body roll or sway. Check / replace your sway bar end links if they are bad. Exterior wise how about either a traditional flame job, or a true flame paint scheme? How about paint with either pearl or metallic in it? Ghost flames? Skulls? All the art work from every one of Meatloaf's Bat Out of Hell album covers? 😁

Honestly, I thought the Aztek was far ahead of its time. I liked them. And the rear tent attachment, that was freakin cool. I think its funny how people gave it crap, but if you look now, so many car companies took that idea and made it a little better. Like I said, ahead of its time. I would still buy one. And welcome bro!!!

Glad to hear you love your Aztek. Great cars, really too bad they are despised the way they are by the rest of the car world. Got any pics of your Aztek?

Sure looks like Harry jumps in N takes charge of any situation. My LIL Cocker Spaniel rules the roost around here too. 12yrs and many ailments, but couldn't imagine it around here without him. They are worse than kids, they actually mind once in awhile and know exactly what your sayin.

Hay frosty, thats our boy Harry, he has been battling meningitis since he was 2.... he is now 8 years old, only thing keeping him alive is prednisone. the vets say that its common in the the little white fluffy dogs, and its can be caused by grocery store flee treatments !🤨 Winters here in nz can vary from the north where its very mild to the deep south thats really cold, here in Taupo we get it really cold, but its also very dry thanks to the pumice land we are on. where i am we can get snow around november, and not much, 3 inches is the most we have ever had, most years we get zip snow. ice is one thing we get lots of, as a plumber i am always running around fixing burst water pipe.😄 Temperatures sit around -5 to 10 c which is around 23- 50 f

Agree with everything Frosty is suggesting, but the Pertronix 111 is overkill. This is pretty much full on racecar. Will also require MSD ignition upgrades and more $$$. Already getting bored with the TV and the whole Corona situation, I JUSTA spend a good deal of time researching and went with the Pertronix 1 system. Doubles the spark input and can use your stock coil/system. Here's the link to check out what you are looking for. Customer service was extremely helpful and could have talked with him all day. He was bored tooo as things were dead around there too. Good luck and great to see another Mitten member here. Keep June open to attend the Widetracker Spring Dustoff and meet up with a bunch of us FP Michiganers. https://pertronix.com/pertronix-1181ls-ignitor-delco-lobe-sensor-8-cyl.html#product_tabs_additional_tabbed

Hi Joe - welcome fellow Meeechigander to FP. The Pontiac 350, like its 326/389/400/455 cousins responds well to the basic engine upgrades. It depends on how much you are willing to spend and how much down time you can endure. Things I am suggesting won't necessarily break the bank but they are not free either. Since you said 350 Lemans I will assume right off the bat that this is a 2-bbl intake and carb. You can search Craigslist, eBay, and local swap meets for a used iron Pontiac 4-bbl manifold and Rochester carb. Top price I'd pay for a manifold is $100-150. You can find it cheaper if you look around. As for a Rochester carb, you want the Buick-Olds-Pontiac style that has the gas line comes in from the front. Chevy versions come in from the side. I'd spend $50 for one and then buy a rebuild kit. If you need a new full line, you can get one from National Parts Depot in Canton. For now, I'm guessing that new or used heads are out of the question. However, if the engine has never been touched, your motor could stand to have a new cam and lifters installed. I would also take the time to remove the heads, have new hardened valve guides installed and have a triple angle valve job done to it and some mild port and polishing / gasket matching done to it to help air flow. I would also inspect the stock stamped rockers and perhaps replace them. Mine are a stamped roller rocker for longevity. I would consider upgrading my distributor to breakerless ignition and do away with points and the dwell meter. A Pertrronix III Ignition kit or a new breakerless stock-locking distributor will work. A used GM HEI unit will also work. New distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, and properly gapped spark plugs are always a good thing. Assuming the swap meet season isn't a total bust this spring, in addition to Craigslist and such, ta good place to find parts is the Bearing Burns Swap Meet which is currently scheduled for Sunday, May 3 2020 at the Knights of Columbus Picnic Grounds in Shelby Township. All this is relatively inexpensive. I'd guess it's less that $2000 in parts and machine shop labor. However, it will require down time. Is this what you were looking for?

On Sunday i got a call from the guy with the chassis i am after, he said come and get it ! i was really excited !! i could finally get started on my rebuild 👍 But... Monday i hired a trailer,hooked it up to my ram and headed north in great anticipation of getting the chassis, get it back to my certifier by the end of trade the same day so he could check it was straight and give me the green light to rebuild it and put it under my bonny. Got 5 minutes out of town and got a call from the guy saying that the storage it was in was locked down thanks to our mate covid-19. 😢😡 my master plan for the 4 weeks we are locked down just went out the window ! gutted is the best word for it... just gutted🙄 So today being first day of the lock down for us.... i cleaned windows, did chores for the boss(wife) and by 2 pm it was time to do something for myself... Start fixing what i can, with no access to any materials,just going you use what i have on hand. first project is the drivers door dent

A couple other possibilities. First one of the first symptoms of an IAT going bad is hesitation/stumble/stutter, so check that. The other real possibility is the fuel pump or regulator. A simple check! Get a pressure gage, get a hose with the correct fittings to connect to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Make sure that it’s long enough to mount somewhere at the windshield area or inside the cabin, where you can see it. Run the car as you normally would to generate the problem, note the pressure readings. This will tell you if that’s where the problem is. Also the 4t65e & 4t65e-hd can cause this same symptom, under the right conditions, but again, I doubt that to be the problem.

Ok I have to ask this first! What occurs that makes you think you have belt slippage?

69SJ4spd - Welcome to FP. As you have discovered, you have a rare and desirable carb for someone restoring a valuable Ram Air GTO or Trans Am with a 4 speed. So you know you can repair it and sell it for some really good coin, the question will be how long before someone comes knocking at your door to purchase it. I have one such experience with a similar carb. I was looking for era correct parts for my '72 Lemans back in 2004. Meaning I wanted a carb from '72 that went on a Lemans or GTO but it didn't have to be numbers matching, it had to be from that model year. I found one at the GTOAA convention in Pontiac Michigan that year. The guy wanted $1800 for it. Turns out it was for a Ram Air/HO 455 4-speed car or 71 Judge 400 Ram AIr car. I asked the guy why so much. He figured that anyone doing a 100-point restoration would pay top dollar for that carb. I told him he was going home with it. I was right. I saw him again two months later at the Trans Am Nationals in Dayton Ohio. He still had it, but he was now asking $1500 for it. I don't know if he ever sold it for what he was asking but I think he might have had a tad more luck asking a more realistic price. Just because it is rare doesn't mean there is a huge market for it. So the moral of the story is price with caution. That said, you can get strong money for these, if you are willing to wait. How long you have to wait is anyone's guess. Now if this is my carb, I'd fix it and use and enjoy my Grand Prix until I'm ready to install the electronic fuel injection system. Once the EFI is installed and running, I'd rebuild it one last time and put it up for sale on eBay and let the bidding go where it will. Of course I'd put a reserve on it too. That's my 2 cents anyway.

Hi all My name is Hassan , actually Im from Kuwait 🇰🇼... Im new here in this website and im really glad to meet you all ! Me and my dad are a damn Pontiac fans 😁 we own some pontiacs like a 1970 GTO The Judge Real orbit orange car , 4 speed 400 Ram Air III fully documented and PHS is signed by the God Of GTOs ( Jim Wangers , god bless him🙏🙏🙏 ) we bought it from California , 1971 Trans Am 455 HO automatic Documented Canadian car Cameo white exterior and Bright blue interior , 1977 Trans Am 400 TA 6.6 and a 4 speed Transmission also documented with a Brentwood Brown Exterior and a Saddle Interior , i will attach some pictures ! Thank you all , by the way the 2 survivor Judge pictures was before the full restoration 🤗

Another Meeeechigander huh? Great! Welcome to FP. Another Lemans convertible too. Awesome!

This is my 70 LeMans 468 Poncho I have another set of wheels that change my car into a street beast. If you don’t like the 18’s I’ll post some pics of the 15’s soon

Welcome 😀. Love the body style of your LeMans. She's pretty!

Welcome to FP! Always glad to see another MITTEN member.

1988 305 - daily work in progress; but my baby