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I am nominating my wife's Pro-Touring 1973 Trans Am. The car has stayed true to the original color from the factory Cameo White with Deluxe White Interior. The car is extensively customized. Carbon Kustoms carbon fiber fenders, hood, inner fender wells, shaker and wheel flares. Custom built 3 piece 18x12" wheels built Evod Industries. 416ci LS3 built by Wegner Motorsports and tuned by West Bend Dyno making 640hp and 550ftlbs torque mated to a T56 Keisler tranny. The suspension is a combination of Detroit Speed front hydroformed front subframe and a custom 3 link with Watts Link set up custom built by Dusold Designs mated to a Ford 9" full floater rearend suspended by Ridetech triple adjustable shocks and springs. Flow master exhaust expels spent gasses from the Ultimate Headers. Wildwood 14" six piston front brakes and 4 piston rear brakes bring this Bird to a halt quickly. The interior is designed to keep the spirit of the original Trans Am look but incorporates modern gauges by Gauge Mark, seats by Sparco and a 4 pt roll cage to protect the driver during an occasional track day or hard charging autocross.

and they are going on the garage wall. Seem to have lights in them as well, gonna test them out soon. each letter close to 24 " tall and 6 " deep I am glad to be repurposing a CITGO gas station sign or at least the good parts of it.

Am assuming the car is equipped with the Super Hydra-Matic transmission..?? Also is the car column shift or floor shift...?? On column shift cars the neutralizer switch is non adjustable.... But it is adjustable on floor shift cars..If has floor shift it's very possible that it has slipped out of ajustment... If the car is equipped with the Roto Hydramatic (AKA Slim jim) the procedure is the same...

I agree with Frosty and assume your speaking of the starter and not the alternator overheating. Neutral safety switch.

Nice ride Dwayne. Here's my 3rd Gen (1990 Formula 350)

Hi Ringo! Yes, a 1975 Pontiac Grand Ville Brougham convertible

85 Fiero 2M4

Great idea!

You are da man as always.....

lol GTO out of CITGO! I repurpose things any chance I get but man I love that bro! Great work bro!!!

I believe you im looking into the quick performance ford 9 inch rear now 2500.00 ish ready to rock problem I have is life keeps sucking my wallet dry lol Just one issue lol IMG_2785.mov Yea my son showed up at the very end lol

Thanks! Looking forward to participating in the forum.

Could very well be a wheel bearing...As far as low traction light I agree with Frosty and Last Indian..one of the wheel speed sensors..Unless there is something obvious you will have to hit it with a scanner to tell which wheel it is...

If you're having a hard time locating the wiper motor assembly....Or would like to keep the original...It is a serviceable unit and can be repaired...took photos with my phone hope you can see them OK...Hopefully this helps....

Sorry for your trouble Lynn, but Frosty is right we will do all we can to help, no judgments here! The top radiator hose is most likely either the radiator cap or the run/return line from the overflow reservoir to the radiator, but the cap would be my bet. He should not have left the thermostat out, you need to get a new one back in as soon as possible in this cold weather. Not good for the motor and you will not have very good heat. The ticking or tapping is very possibly the idler pulley bearing based on what else has been done. And the miss fire of #3 may be a bad spark plug wire or plug, but since they were replaced my bet would be the coil pack.

Gotta' love it when guys say things like "Ultimate Smokey and the Bandit Tribute". Nothing says Smokey and the Bandit to me like a Trans Am with a small block Chevy 350 in it and 33" tires on snowflake rims! Now where did Fred go???? But hey it's ready for Duluth winter driving - I guess.... https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/duluth-the-ultimate-smokey-and-the/6784312184.html

Don't worry Lynn - we will do our best to try to help you. If you don't mind, is it possible for your to video/record and upload your engine's noise for us to hear (give it about 1-2 minutes max)? That will let us hear the exact sound it's making, show us the condition your motor is in, and you can point out things if you'd like to, and hopefully give us a better idea of what the problem might be. Ringo - our web administrator - can help you with the technical details of how to upload a video file if you need help.

Hi LiveRiveted64. I think we might be fighting a couple of issues here. Pontiac engines have a notorious heat soak re-start problem, especially if you have wrap-around headers. The problem is the starter or solenoid gets so hot from the heat of the exhaust manifolds/headers that it won't engage. You can buy a heat shield, and add some heat resistant material to the shield from most of the catalogs. However, for the actual starter, you have two choices, purchase a heavy-duty Pontiac starter (Pontiac had 2 different starters back in the day - a standard starter and an optional heavy duty starter - if your car is mostly original you may have the standard starter) or a more modern compact mini-torque starter. Also, check your battery cables, are they in good shape or could they stand to be replaced? On my 455, I run factory reproduction HO/Ram Air exhaust manifolds (factory headers essentially). I have a heat shield with no material and a heavy-duty starter. I make sure the wires don't come in contact with engine (no burn through - I had that happen once before too). I make sure the engine's intial and total timing is within proper spec. Now your reverse problem I think is something else. Is you car an automatic or manual? Since it is a 4-door Vista, I am going to assume for the moment is an automatic. I am wondering if your neutral safety switch has partially or completely failed thus cutting off the ignition when you go to shift. You can't restart the car because the engine is already too hot (problem #1).

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Hello to everyone in the form, I have a question that I was hoping someone can answer for me. I recently just purchased some parts for my G8, and I was wondering what kind of tune is needed or be preferred for better performance and overall drivability. The parts I purchased are Kooks Long tube headers 1 7/8, along with their 3inch exhaust system with no cats at all, followed by a 3.5 quad tip finish. I have an AFE CAI. Everything else is about stock. I was wondering if remote tune or a dyno tune would be preferred due to the performance parts I purchased. The dyno tune is being done with HP Tuners by a place called " Arizona Elite Motorsports". Every other remote tune kit I looked up are about 500 and up. Which is better?

If you have the money and the facilities at your disposal, a dyno tune is prefered over a remote tune. A skilled facility can adjust MAP settings on the fly based on the previous dyno pull results and fine tune your air/fuel ratio for optimum performance across the RPM range as well as make sure your oil pressure, o2 sensors, and other parameters are not out of whack. It will cost you more that a remote tune but it is hard to argue with the results.