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Pontiac of the Month

360Rocket's 1970 GTO

2019 March
of the Month


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I'm not a fan, especially in a vehicle that has no controls for a human to take over in the event of an emergency. So a controless vehicle condemns its occupants to whatever unanticipated fate it may (unfortunately) encounter. The NHTSA would have to prove that self-driving vehicles are significantly (statistically-speaking) more safe than human-driven vehicles. I doubt there is enough data samples, particular on populated roads for that. Nor is anyone terrible anxious to let them out on public streets either - hence the dilemma. I doubt anyone is willing to take it on faith either just to let them out on the roads either (TRUST ME!). Finally who does my family sue when such a vehicle gets in an accident? Who's liable? The company that managed the vehicle? The manufacturer of the vehicle? The autonomous software development company? Or Yes All of the Above Please? WIth a human driver, there is an implied single-point of fault.
  2. 3 points
    Well the old rear end is out. All the Parts from QP arrived in the last week. Total bill was 3300.00 . I will not be using their upgraded brake line kit. ( not worth the $75.00 and would look like crap in my opinion ) Instead i went to my parts store ( autovalue ) and bought weld on brake line retainers PN 60029 allstar performance, and ford replacement rubber hoses PN BH25665 parts master and PN 50150 allstar performance brake line clips. I made a bracket to bolt to the 3rd member to mount the original brake tee. I am using NiCopp hard brake lines from the rubber lines to the tee. This will look Factory i hope. Pics coming later today. I hope...
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    Flowmaster muffler, EGR delete, pacesetter midtubes & y-pipe, double din radio, air baffle delete, fixed some shady wiring, replaced the center console, short shifter, new radiator, and some other fixes.
  5. 2 points
    I joined a few days ago, and figured I'd post a couple pictures here once I had a chance to get the pollen off. Other pictures
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    JUSTA - I think the more accurate expression is: you can tune a piano but you can't tuna fish....but they both have scales!
  8. 2 points
    LMAO......You can tune an exhaust, but ya can't tune a fish!
  9. 2 points
    Well, started off with a dream of having a family car that was actually fun to drive. Purchased a 2006 impala ss donor car. The vans subframe is drastically different from the impala' so but that being said it shared the same style transmission. Started off my making a new mounts on the rear passenger side of the subframe. Bolted the Trans into its original mount. Squared up the engine drilled the mounting holes and that be it. Next que the 10-15 times I installed and removed the engine.. fitment issues ranging from pulleys hitting frame to alternator vs windsheild motor etc.... also after about 1000miles had to pull it out again...temperamental transmissions, got it rebuilt along with an LSD differential since then just tackled the 400 hours of wiring got everything functional including ABS cruise control everything you would expect in a vehicle turn key.
  10. 2 points
    Did you or can you disconnect that line at the hose connection of the fuel pump and see what happens? Does it pump out gas, does it suck, is it vapor? It might help diagnose that’s going on!
  11. 2 points
    My 68 Firebird is receiving some significant upgrades this spring, including a fuel injected 535, 4L80E trans, PTC 3500 stall triple disc converter and 12 bolt 3.55 Eaton rear end. The car is already beautifully restored and should be really special when finished. Here she is right now... Block all cleaned up and ready to assemble... Installing cam bearings... Camshaft and main bearings installed... Crankshaft checked for straightness, main bearing clearance and end play. .009" end play seemed a little big to me, but Butler confirmed it is OK. Rear seal installed and main caps torqued down... Pistons and rods weight matched... I degree'd the cam with only cylinder #1 piston installed without rings. I find it much easier this way. When installed straight up, the intake center line is at 112.75 degrees. Cam card says it should be 114. I guess I'll leave it as is and let chain stretch get it closer...
  12. 2 points
    Here’s a couple pics of Hodges I found
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    That's great for the President or any other politician to say. However, they have yet to figure out public demand. People are not buying large or small cars these days, prefering SUVs and luxury trucks. So unless GM places a high selling vehicle into Lordstown and Hamtramck (not very likely), anything else they might put there is doomed to similar fate. I agree with Ringo, it's a business decision. A sad and unfortunate one for all those affected to be sure.
  17. 1 point
    2002 Trans Am WS6. All original with 29,000 miles.
  18. 1 point
    aloha, my original 41,000m ohc 6 tempest, colum auto, spare has never been outta the trunk hb
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I can send you some if you’d like. My allergies say we have more than we need.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    The most likely suspect would be your alternator is not recharging the battery properly when the car is running. It should produce ~14V to recharge your battery once your vehicle is running. Otherwise, you may have something like some sort of interior light, radio, etc. that is staying on after the car is shut off, draining the battery, or there is some sort of internal electrical short causing the battery to drain.
  24. 1 point
    Wrongway, if it was mine I would use 304 SS 2 ½ all the way to the mufflers, all welded, no clamps, no balance cross pipe. The super 44s are a good muffler choice. After set in the right orientation I would weld them to the 304 pipe. When the time comes to replace the mufflers you just grind the weld till the muffler is released. The area of a single 3” pipe, working diameter 2.9”, is 7.18 sq in for 8 cylinders. The area of single 2 ½ pipe, working diameter 2.4” is 4.5” sq in for 4 cylinders. This mean that the laminar flow is much more stable with less inverted flow in the 2 ½ pipes. Think of it this way, a flowing river with no curves, no rocks flows smooth, but add some large rocks and a lot of smaller ones and you have inverted flow, disturbance, rapids! Because the volume of fluid verses flow rate has been reduced. The other thing that happens is that the sound gets louder! If you increase the width of the river at the area of rocks, but the rock disturbance area stays the same the water disturbance decreases as does the inverted flow & noise. The noise at the rapids is higher pitched and a racket type. Now think of Niagara Falls! Very loud, but deep toned. No invert flow, until after the falls. I could continue, but I hope this helps? Does that explain it a little better?
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    make sure the Patch piece is up to ethanol rated gas line. 70 didnt have the canister as far as i know. The crushed piece is the issue i bet.
  27. 1 point
    Hey guys that be me, but that vsn isn't a w body
  28. 1 point
    Wow, my head really hurts now Indian, thanks man. I think you broke something in my thinker lol. Seriously bro that was a very in depth article and I thank you for sending it to me. I did also talk to flowmaster today. So since you guys have built and have way more experience with exhaust then I do what do you think about Flowmaster super 44s and 3" pipes running all the way back from the 3" header collector's? That was kinda where Flowmaster thought I should be with the 428.
  29. 1 point
    Hope that solves your problems bro.
  30. 1 point
    In general I usually don’t comment much on exhaust stuff. Everybody usually has their own thoughts on what they think works, what they like too hear, etc. Still something you might want too consider is, what you want? Power, performance, sound, what? Attached is a link to an in depth article about exhaust, JustA headers, not really even getting into downstream. I’ve built systems for 45 years and two things I learned early on was louder wasn’t better, neither was quite, and bigger was better! http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/exhaust_system_technology.htm Most of the systems that you’re going to look at are 400 series stainless. It’s better than steel, but as it ages it starts to perform like steel. It slows down the laminar exhaust flow because of the resistance at the wall. You will see in this article how they talk about exhaust waves & pulses and how, depending on tube diameter, material selection and pipe transitions, a negative invert flow can be created that is counterproductive. A simple example, a V8 running headers into 3” collectors than into 2” duel pipes has a area of 6.28 sq. In. But the same engine could run the same headers into 3” collectors an than into one single 3” pipe. This delivers over 7” sq. In. Creates less shock waves that send inverted waves back at the valves, gives a deep rich tone. Also by slowing down the flow due to a larger pipe size you hear more of the throaty sound. Always see if you can get at least 304 stainless. So as my buddy JustA would say, I’m JustA saying!
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