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Pontiac of the Month

Shakercars's 1972 Trans Am

2019 August
of the Month


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    And that is all she wrote! Congrats to our 2020 Forever Pontiac Calendar winners and thank you to all who entered! This year was a great year and tons of wonderful Pontiacs. The following users are in the calendar (no specific order), I will be reach out to some of you for better quality pictures. If you do not respond by the deadline, we will move on to the 2nd place individual in your grouping: @Lucky @brandyv73 @58Bonne @LN7_NUT @GreenMartian @LawMan62 @Bush71grandprix @4 bucket 67 @FlyGTO @Pontiacs For Life @48Streamliner @stratman
  2. 3 points
    Hello from Malta . This is the first time to own a 60s American classic . Got my self a 69 bird located in germany from a dealer . Needs nothing to do . Down here i will post some pictures of my car .
  3. 3 points
    This boggles my mind of those who have such large collections (e.g. Jay Leno). Don't get me wrong, that's awesome to have such a collection and more power to whomever does but what really throws me is, with such a large collection, how would you ever enjoy it? There's not enough time to maintain, drive or even know the intimates of each of the vehicles. I understand those who have large collections have teams of people that take care of the vehicles but you get to a point where the vehicles become "things" that you just glance at occasionally and not members of the family (but maybe I'm alone in this avenue of thinking 🤷‍♂️). If you have a 150 kids, good luck having a close relationship with each of them - let alone remembering their names 🤪
  4. 3 points
    Just finished putting 4 coats on.
  5. 2 points
    Wow, and Congrats to everyone who entered, and to those who won. I am humbled. Thanks!
  6. 2 points
    I found this black and white photo of Leonard Nimoy, aka Mr. Spock, in front of his '70 GTO Judge. We knew Mr. Spock was cool, but this makes him even cooler. "Just when you thought Spock from Star Trek couldn't get any cooler. Here he is with his set of wheels - a 1970 GTO the "Judge." Check out the license plates that read "GR-RRR!' Imagine riding down the L.A. freeway and looking over and seeing Spock behind the wheel of this muscle car. The GTO was manufactured by Pontiac from 1964 to 1974. The vehicle was selected as the Motor Trend Car of the Year in 1968. GTO stands for "Grand Tempest Option" - and is one of the fastest cars ever manufactured by Pontiac. Meanwhile, Mr. Spock was First Officer on the Starship Enterprise. Their mission was to boldly go where no man has gone before - and if a muscle car could get you there, all the better." https://groovyhistory.com/61-groovy-photos-that-captured-more-than-expected/24 Say what? Grand Tempest Option???? That is most illogical. Obviously the person who wrote this article is not much a car buff.
  7. 2 points
    Weather was near perfect yesterday so I hid the Honey-Do list and headed over to Old Town section of Portsmouth. Knew that some of the locals may be hanging out. Sitting dock side enjoying a few cool beverages on the Legend Brewing Depot patio with the Naval Shipyard as a backdrop. This is our best time of year for cruising 👍 CHEERS 🍻
  8. 2 points
    Installed some glass and rubber.
  9. 2 points
    As I said, I didn't know what to expect. This event popped up on the local car show calendar and peeked my curiosity. I must first correct myself it is SAJO Farm. This is a little known (At least to me) piece of local history and an amazing location for an event. This was organized by Saint Patrick Catholic School and was an inaugural event. Once on site I was amazed how well it was put together. I think they topped off with just under 80 cars not bad for an unknown first time event. All donations went to the school and with a VIP pass you were given access to the inner house for some special tasting Regardless if you chose a VIP ticket all entrants were given access to free BBQ from a local establishment as well as entertained by not only a great eclectic mix of fine automobiles but great music from an acoustic duo that but an awesome Irish twist to contemporary music. I have to say all these elements have never come to mind when you hear CAR SHOW. What a great mix and I hope they can continue this event. We have several more events possible before we have to tuck tail and deal with Old Man Winter I hope these pics attached will help those already dealing with the cold feel a little warmer. To see more of my favorites from the show... https://flic.kr/s/aHsmJ8oDpE Cheers.
  10. 2 points
    I'm busy cleaning the LeMANS tonight for a VIP show tomorrow at SO JO Farms. Weather is looking great. Not sure what to expect but should be good with mixed horderves and Bourbon tasting. I'll be sure to take some pics if possible 😜 😉
  11. 2 points
    My picks are: 1. 1970 GTO Judge convertible with a 4-speed 2. 1977/78 Trans Am SE (Smokey and the Bandit) Black/Gold with Fisher Body T-Tops 3. 1959 red Bonneville convertible with a 389 tri-power, white top, and triple color (red, silver, white) interior, and pull out AM radio
  12. 2 points
    Lucky? Perhaps! I like to think it’s resilience sprinkled with as my daughter has always said Iron Man mentality! Or we could call it what it is; dumb luck!!
  13. 2 points
    Yes i have been to a night cruise tis week And there was a lot of people who came and see the car . Actually it is the only 69 bird on the island . This is a pic from the night run
  14. 2 points
  15. 1 point
    So, is it fair to say you have a couple of hummers in your house and one person who whistles while he works? 😁 while you all have to traverse here and there to get to the right car? Cougrats buddy or I guess I should say to your wife, you’re just the guy who gets to take care of it.
  16. 1 point
    Really glad to see you win Stratman! Well deserved, beautiful car! Congratulations to all who won!
  17. 1 point
    Exterior panel stabilization, securing & attachment improvements that will help quiet them. If you own a Pontiac from the early 1990s through 2009, then you may have noticed that because of how a lot of the panels were made and attached, there can be that creak or crack when you push on a panel like a front bumper cover or rear cover, etc., but these improvements will also help to improve driving characteristics; yes really! The old cars were not and are not like that! Why? Because they bolted together solid, panel to panel, not with plastic push pins that go in a hole almost half again as big as the pin O.D… Well you can have that same solid non noisy panel setup as the old Skool classics have and had. Why would this improve driving characteristics? Well when panels aren’t stable they negatively impact air movement aka air foil characteristics. This may seem irrelevant at 35mph, but not at 50mph! There is a reason NASCAR as well as well as some of the car industry spends millions of dollars on aerodynamic research, wind tunnels and the like! Still for me, when you build a car, you build a car! You build as a a complete assembly, too be as perfect as you can make it, for every instance and every situation! I may be anal, ok I am, but if I was paying to have a car built, this is what I would want, so why should I not do it for myself?! Really! A very simple example is the vertical edge in the engine compartment where the outer and inner fender are spot welded together (see pic)! While there is no value other than aesthetics in this case this is just a case of a little effort to make an improvement and remove an edge that can get beat up easily and inflict some damage to knuckles or the like. So to the details, again I will use my 2000 Grand Prix for example purposes. First the front end. I’ll start with the bumper support, this piece attaches to the lower hood latch and supports the upper area of the bumper cover with two push pins and one small screw/washer, but also attaches to the steel brace/bracket that the headlights attach. This where I make an adjustment to effect the height of the bumper cover height gap to the hood. I do this by retapping the hole from 6mm x 1.25mm to ¼ x 20 thd… and then placing stainless steel washers between the bumper support and the steel headlight bracket with a SS ¼-20 buttonhead screw through the middle of the washers. This piece also has the ability to be adjusted to some degree at the bumper cover attachment area itself. This includes the fact that it interfaces with the two air ducts for radiator cooling that locate it vertically on molded post of those ducts. These could be shortened or raised by the addition of a spacer if need be. This will in turn changes the gap between the upper lip of the cover and the hood. Likewise the two headlight brackets need to be fixed, as they are not attach properly as a support structure. They allow for to much movement and vibration as they come from the OEM. There are two places I will show to attach these brackets to the core support to make them solid like they should be. This structure with its long span between the factory attachment points at each end of the bracket needs to be made ridged. The two outer holes of the bumper support that interface with the bumper cover will not use the push pin fasteners. Instead it will change to SS ¼-20 buttonhead screws with a SS washer and nut on the underside. This now holds the upper bumper cover tight to the support so there is no movement or flex. the two pictures above show the vertical edge fix. this top portion area fix is the easy part! The bottom side gets much more involved, that will be the next segment.
  18. 1 point
    Live long N prosper. Now....beam me up Scotty, and the GTO too.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    The way to positively.....ID a 1980 pace car.....The second digit in the VIN....Will be an X.... 2W87TAN100001 2= Pontiac 2nd digit=Firebird body series (S= base...T= Esprit.....U= Formula...W= Trans Am....X= Indy Pace car)... 87 = 2 door coupe... T= engine code...(A=3.8....W= 4.9....Y= 4.9....T= 4.9 turbo....H = 5.0)... A= model year...1980.. N = Assembly plant...(N= Norwood....L = Van Nuys 100001= sequence number... The 4.9 turbo charged engine was NOT Available in California.....and used one of the other two 4.9s...( One of the 4.9s and the 4.9 turbo were 49 state engines....and the other one was used in California only.... Not sure which one is which )...It's possible but unlikely that the 5.0 (LG4) could have been used in California pace cars also.....There were no manual transmission.... Firebirds and/ or Trans Ams made in1980.... The pace car decals..... Indy or ( Daytona 1981).....Came separately in the trunk....With the cars and could be dealer installed....If so desired by the owner.... Hope this helps you out.....Welcome to the site...
  21. 1 point
    Thanks guys. Frosty, The weather here in VA BCH is somewhat unpredictable, We sometimes will have charity shows up until mid December. I'll be attending a Toys for Tots next week. If anyone is interested I just added more show pictures to my album. I borrowed them from someone else who took a few I didn't catch. https://www.flickr.com/gp/149936083@N07/vd974D Cheers.
  22. 1 point
    Some of those were a bit of a stretch like SLS for Caddy and Mercedes but interesting article.
  23. 1 point
    I guess that means you have nowhere to go when you retire but north!
  24. 1 point
    The Opti Spark on a LT1 can be troublesome Especially the unvented units 1994 and earlier....Before you rush out and buy one...Pull the cap off of it and look at it real close 3 or 4 different times in different kinds of light ...Inside and out...Use a magnifying glass if necessary.....Pay special attention to the area around where the coil wire plugs into the cap and the area around where the wire harness plugs into it....Alot of times a hairline crack will develop in those areas and can be almost impossible too detect and/or see...And will cause intermittent drivability issues....Also pay close attention to the coil wire itself on the end where it plugs into the unit...Make sure it is not dry rotted and/or brittle.....One other thing while the cap is off make sure that it is absolutely clean inside the unit...Have seen some with little flecks of some sort minuscule crap inside that would move around occasionly with the rotor and briefly interrupt the signal between the optic laser light sensor and the optic disc...Anyway look closely at those things first... If you do wind up replacing the whole unit....Spend the extra money and get an OEM AC Delco part..... Stay away from Auto parts store Chinese stuff...Also if I'm not mistaken MSD makes a kit (or used to) that allows you convert an unvented unit to a vented one....
  25. 1 point
    Good catch Frosty! I forgot about that setup! That was a somewhat short lived technology I never really got into. Kind of like fiber optics, which i did do a lot of work on, is a great idea, but the level of precision and maintenance is too encompassing!
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Thank you very much!!! I picked the car up last night and drove it 75 Miles to a pole barn that will be its home until spring. It did give me trouble with the engine. It looks like the previous owner, a friend that died and gave me first rights to buy it, never knew much about engines. 2 barrel carburetor, tappet covers and oil breather all leaked. I think the gas was 10 years old and I could not hardly keep it running at a stop without taking it out of gear. If I had known I would have came up and worked on it for him. With that said it road like riding on a cloud! Now I think I will start looking for a 4 barrel intake, put an electronic Demon 4 barrel carburetor on it, put, electronic points and duel exhausts. I would like your thoughts on that good or bad. I am pretty open. I own several old Corvettes and want to treat this beauty right. I do not think the car has been driven over 35 miles per hour and 1,000 miles in the last 15 years. Thank you again for responding! God bless!
  28. 1 point
    BTW - Thank you for service. To all Vietnam Vets I add "Welcome home!". I don't think this nation can ever say that enough.
  29. 1 point
    These are your Fisher Body accessory codes that came on the car from the factory. I'm still looking for the definitive list decode list. Group 5 - "Y" means deluxe seat belts (RPO A37). I can't find a 4E accessory code. A 4F means Comfort and Convenience package (RPO Z01). So if you have your Pontiac Historical Documentation build sheet, you should find these RPOs listed.
  30. 1 point
    For me! 1. 1969 Firebird Trans Am convertible ( only 8 made ) 2. 1964 GTO 3. 1966 Grand Prix
  31. 1 point
    Thanks Ringo, gotta be a pain, especially this year with so many entries! But that’s a good thing for FP though 👍!
  32. 1 point
    G'day mate. Welcome to the FP forum and all the madness that comes with it. You've chosen a good car to start with since the aftermarket here in the States has truly embraced these old GM A-body cars including the GTO, Tempest and Lemans. So there are a lot of parts available here for these cars, both used and new. Some things are not re-produced but I'd say that 85-95% is readily available. It just may not be cheap. Of course when shipping to Australia, define cheap, right? Just let us know what you are looking for and we will try to steer you in the right direction.
  33. 1 point
    Yup! No Indian, but Ringo will figure it out! Besides new blood in the calendar is a good thing!
  34. 1 point
    Thanks , it is green with a vinyl roof . Don’t know the exact name , but it’s dark green
  35. 1 point
    You should see the look I got when I confessed to putting the tools away before going the emergency room.
  36. 1 point
    You mean from the point of reason, the point of being rationale, the person who calmly asks "what the f*ck happened?" and then ultimate says, "don't do it again" (oh like I was consciously trying that hard to do it the first time but succeeded anyway!).
  37. 1 point
    I feel most stupid stories only get better from the wife perspective
  38. 1 point
    Over 10grand Canadian easy and time wise is hard to say but grunt work likely 100hrs wiring a lot more It's nearly impossible to say how long and much I've put into it but if I ever build another it'll be a breese
  39. 1 point
    There are headers by OBX for the 2004-2007 Aura/Malibu/G6 with the 3.5L High Value V6 however you have the 3.6L High Feature V6, which is a different engine family entirely.
  40. 1 point
    Without going custom, the limits of the G6 are rather small. Really a cold air intake, exhaust and a good tune is the majority of what is readily available and "lower" cost performance-wise. The G6 is a fantastic car, I've owned mine since new in 2006 but there isn't a wide variety of aftermarket parts available, like say for a Camaro. There may be some parts from the Malibu Maxx you may be able to scrounge which are compatible but about it without going too custom. There are some suspension upgrades which you can perform if you're looking to get the car to handle better. Believe Eibach had a lowering kit and there are some other various upgrades, strut tower braces, etc..
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Well we freed the engine up but it has 2 stuck valves that should not be a problem, I do need a fuel tank and fuel pump and master cylinder. I have ordered the head gasket and tstat housing gasket. one step at a time. Thanks
  43. 1 point
    Welcome to the site great looking old wagon... Noticed you said that the straight 8 engine was seized up.....Was it seized due to a mechanical failure or just rusted (rings to the bores..possibly from moisture over the years...??) The reason I ask is....Years ago my dad came up with an old Cadillac (1949) that had been sitting in an old shed for years and the engine was locked up...So what we did was use a process called electrolysis...Basically what we did was reverse the oxidation process using a car battery and charger and an electrolyte made out of water and washing soda (sodium bicarbonate) If I remember correctly he used right at one tablespoon of washing soda to one gallon of water...So we pulled the engine out of the car and removed the intake manifold..valve covers...water pump...oil pan.... timing cover ... freeze plugs ETC...Then submerged the engine in a plastic kids wading pool large enough to completely get the whole engine underwater then added the washing soda to the water and mixed it up really good so as to be sure it did not clump up....Then from the 12 volt car battery using jumper cables hooked the ground to the engine block which turned it into a cathode....Then we used a piece of steel rebar as an anode which we hooked the positive cable to the hot side of the battery then submerged the rebar in the solution placing it real close to but not touching the engine block with about 6 inches or so sticking up above the water level where the positive lead was hooked to....The rebar will be consumed during the process so you would need to keep an eye on it and replace as necessary...so that the positive cable does not become submerged into the electrolyte solution...It is a slow process took about three weeks to clean and derust the Caddy engine...It worked really well and when it was done...We rolled it over by hand with very little effort...The black powder residue that was left on the engine came right off with stiff brush...Then the engine was quite easily disassembled any wearable parts replaced reinstalled in the car and was driven across country to Seattle from North Carolina and back with no issues.....I am sure that I have missed a few details as this was 30 some years ago..... Electrolysis Might be something worthwhile to check into if you want to reuse the original engine......Good luck with your project and keep us posted..... TLBT
  44. 1 point
    Thanks my friend! Like pretty much everything else, it’s what’s underneath that counts! Or at least counts as much. Or the devil’s in the detail!
  45. 1 point
    For those folks who care, this is about how you might chose to quiet certain interior parts that tend to make noise because of improper material match as well as the way in which the OEMs started to build components. This is of a particular problem for the later generations of Pontiacs & cars in general, from about 1990 to 2009 for Pontiac. As these cars age and their materials age, they take compression set, dry out and become contaminated with all sorts of products and this problem only exacerbates with age! The fact is if you have a quiet riding car and your door panels, console, dash etc. make noise it’s annoying. There are also ways in which to make an already quiet vehicle even quieter! I will attempt to detail both. One problem with newer style components introduced by the OEMs from the late 80s to about 09 - 12, was basically the ability to make adjustments to components coupled with the fact that they didn’t isolate panels as they once did or there is no buffing of components, and if they have adjustments more often than not it requires bending something. Not unclamping moving and re-clamping to adjust a part. This along with the plastic fastener and no real outer perimeter clamping gives you panel movement, albeit minuscule, any can and does create that subtle noise that just irritates! I would explain how this was all handled so eloquently back in the day, but this isn’t the point of this subject. So I will start with the door panels and if this seems of interest to folks, I will move to other components that suffer from similar issues. Old skool OEM door panels were done in such a way that the interior panel was both isolated and locked into position. The isolation was done by using a waterproof treated paper that actually had a slippery surface on the panel side that interfaced the interior door panel. Plus the attaching inserts bayoneted into a plastic plug that actually stood the panel out slightly. The paper allowed minuscule movement while keeping things quiet as did the plastic inserts that were housed in the door frame. Additionally the top of the door panels actually clipped into brackets that served to secure the top of the panel as well as limit the movement of the glass when down. While at the arm rest and the bottom of the door were screws that clamped the door panel tight. The new style panels, late “80s” to about “12” have none of these. They take a formed plastic panel and at best wrap it in a fabric of some kind and fit it to painted steel that gives a coefficient of friction around .60 which is high enough to be sticky, but not sticky enough to stop movement, which can create a squeak type noise! They use nylon fasteners that don’t necessarily hold the panel tight enough to stop all movement and usually one or two screws at the pull handle only to secure the pull handle to the door for closing purposes. So the following is what I’ve done to place an Old Skool environment back into the new style design without changing the original look that the designer wanted. Isolation as well as a lock type environment needed to be returned as well as some needed sound deadening! The first thing like most projects is to gather materials! I wanted the thickest visqueen I could find! For me that was at a local fabric store, 32 mils, the heaviest felt, 100 mils, that I could find to use as a sound barrier. A lighter weight felt, 40 mils, for uses as a movement buffer and better fitting plastic panel push fasteners. Contact cement, Great Stuff expandable urethane foam, liquid nails Fuze*It and last, but not least, 3Ms multi use duct tape (black). My suggestion, to avoid breaking any of the push fastener stanchions, not the fastener itself, that are an integral part of the door panel itself, is to use a 1” putty knife that’s sharpened to shear the fasteners as opposed to just pulling on the panel. As most folks don’t have the proper tool to get under the panel and fastener itself, if you do, than use that. Remove any screws, than all wiring that is attach to the panel and than remove the panel carefully! Now you are ready to start cleanup. Cleanup what you determine is needed, that’s up to you, but remember dirt and grime are sheet metals enemy. My detailing will be of “97” – “03” Grand Prix so you will need to interpolate this to your vehicle. Now you can start to work on the door panels and making the pieces for the door interface to the door panel, visqueen and heavy felt, that will attach to the door. The door front panels have a heavy cotton pad/sheet adhered to it, remove this and set aside, you will reuse it. In the front panel at the bottom back part of the panel, where the red reflector/ light is, there is a very large hollow area. Your may choose to do what I did and fill this area with Great Stuff, see associated picture. You’ll need to build a wall around the reflector/ light to keep it isolated from the foam. Once you have applied the Great Stuff and it has cured, take a razor knife and cut away what is unneeded. This addition makes a marked difference in noise once all panels are finished with the additional work that needs done and reinstalled. If you have a 4 door, similar work is done to the rear panel with great stuff, but this is done more to adhere the existing styrofoam insert to the door panel itself. The purpose of this is that the styrofoam insert again moves within the door panel creating its own noise when it’s supposed to quiet things. Using great stuff adheres the styrofoam without attacking it and also fills gaps and adds additional noise reduction. Also in the back panel there is a second styrofoam insert above the lower one, this one is retained by a plastic plate that is held by 4 retaining nuts. In the same manner in which the lower one can make noise so does this one. This foam piece though I use a different adhesive. I use liquid nails Fuze*It, this makes a strong bond without attacking the styrofoam and with this insert we don’t need too fill gaps and we don’t want to cause the insert to be push outward, as great stuff tends to do. You should now have laid out and cut your visqueen and felt coverings for the doors from the OEM pieces. So since the doors are cleaned how you want them and the coverings are finished, it’s time to install them! This is where you’ll use the 3M multi use duct tape. Why this tape? Well when you use it you’ll understand, but the adhesion is next to none, which for this application is what you want. One reminder, don’t forget to make holes in both coverings for the screw holes for attaching the center of the panel. My advice is start at the top of the door with a few short pieces of tape, 3-4 inches long, on each end and in the middle. Making sure to align all the clearance holes for the plastic fasteners and screws properly. As you work through each covering, visqueen than felt do the entire perimeter in the 3M tape. Now with both coverings installed make sure all needed holes for screws and panel insert fasteners are clear as well as electrical pigtails have been brought through. Now we turn to the door panel and adding the thinner felt to the door panels. Newer panels fit directly against the painted door frame, unlike old style panel as explained previously, and they are held taunt via the plastic fasteners. The long term problem with this is as the panels lose elasticity, take a compression set and get a bit more tacky, due to overall contamination and age, they start to squeak as they oscillate on the painted door frame. I take a lightweight black felt about a yard and a half long and cut strips about 3/4- to 1” wide. This is so I can run a felt edge around the perimeter of the door panel. Once I have cut my strips, I take the contact cement and an acid brush and paint a bead of cement on the back border edge of the panel about as wide as the strips. After 10 minutes I paint a second coat and than I paint a single coat of cement on one side of the felt. After about 5 minutes I start to lay the felt in place, making sure the the felt sits just slightly outside the edge of the panel, once installed you will not see the edge of felt if done right, but you’re trying the ensure that the felt is the buffer between the panel and the door frame! Now to install the fasteners. In the case of the 2000 GP I used Balkamp fasteners, part# 665-1632 & 665-3465. These fit just a little tighter than the OEM part, which makes for a tighter hold to the door frame. The 665-1632 I use for the interior mounting stanchions that can’t be reached with a tool so they have to be pulled, aka the panel has to be pulled on, but for the perimeter I use the 665-3465 as they hold tighter. Well it’s time to install the panels! So make sure everything is as it needs to be because the last thing you want is to have to take the panel right back off. Check that all electrical is pulled through both coverings and where you want it. That all holes that needed cut have been done, that everything is taped. Make sure if you removed the inside window glass weather molding that bayonets to the steel edge is in place. below is a front panel showing the ear that houses the tweeter. This is a separate added piece that is just affixed by melting two plastic pins. In turn this piece move and can make noise. By glueing it with th fuze it product it becomes much more rigid. This is the door frame with the heavy visqueen installed Again this is a front panel. This is the heavy OEM cotton pad that you will remove and place aside when you apply the great stuff foam to fill the large void area, as you can see that’s been already done here. This is is a back panel. Notice the added great stuff to the styrofoam piece. Above that is the other pad you would use fuze it to glue to the panel to keep in quieter. This is the 100 mils felt Rear door covered with both the visqueen & felt. Lightweight black with a single coat of contact cement. Door panel with two coats of contact cement Lightweight black installed on door panel.
  46. 1 point
    WOW WEE! Now that is COOL 😎 Welcome aboard and thanks for saving that Ol Pontiac 👍 A quick look in Kanter Autos E-Catalog under '53 Pontiac show only Front side and rear mounts with no individual engine listings, So you may be in luck with a 8 to 6 swap. Keep us posted Cheers.
  47. 1 point
    Looks to be in decent shape! Apart from the engine. I do not have an answer but sure one of the other guys can assist.
  48. 1 point
    GREAT PICS GUY'S THANKS. Haven't been back to Charleston since '02 Great location. When that Green '71 popped up in the slide show I immediately saw the Kenner GTO toy from M.A.S.K in my head 😮😉
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Here are some more pics from the convention.
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