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Pontiac of the Month

Praxus's 1965 Lemans

2020 May
of the Month


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/28/2019 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Back in October. Last show she was in.
  2. 7 points
    1965 Pontiac LeMans
  3. 7 points
    What are the chances of two 1951 Pontiac Super Deluxes showing up at thr Rock and Roll Capital Street Machines weekly show on 9-3-2019 in Solon, OH? One’s a convertible, the other’s a hardtop.
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
    Lookin back, it's amazing how brand Loyal we were on everything. (and many of us still are) The win on Sunday = sales on Monday generation. From the Big 3 car manufacturers to every sticker/sponsor on our favorite racers. You can't say racing in any form without thinkin Valvoline, Penzzoil, Castrol, STP on the tip of your tongue as you walked into the auto parts store. But these were competing with your favorite/trusted gas stations, Mobil, Shell, Texaco, Exxon, Sinclair oil companys to name a few for your oil needs. Other than Mobil, where do the rest of the oil brands blend into the list? Did they not score high enough? Or simply too many to list? I was going to make a joke about not going through the BS of sending in a stool sample of my oil for analysis, but apparently Stewy does. " Very cool " if that's what your in to. At what point does average Joe say this is what I've always trusted and it's never let me down. As I said before Last Indian, where would we be without all the countless hours, testing, tuning and producing the highest quality products available, that you and many others have the knowledge and have worked to expose what is truly THE BEST. 40yrs ago an engine with 100,000 on it was junk. Today it's Justa well broken in, with 200,000 as the new bench mark. Salute
  6. 6 points
  7. 5 points
  8. 5 points
    Copy that! It might fill up really quick! Had a little good weather! Got paint?
  9. 5 points
  10. 5 points
  11. 5 points
    Engine & Transmission Oils, their chemistry what it means! what their color changes can indicate. Ok, let’s start with some basics that I think most folks know. W or weight, this stands for the first numeric number in the oils designation and refers to winter weight or viscosity in winter at 0 Fahrenheit. So 10 W 40 means the 10 is the winter viscosity not cold start viscosity! That temperature rating is 0 Fahrenheit, not the temperature when you start the car cold! Say you have a high performance muscle car and you only drive it from late spring to early fall and it’s garaged. Most likely you have more bearing clearance than newer engines. You would probably want to run a 20W40 or 20W50 because you are never going to be starting the engine at a low temperature. Which means you want a little more cushion on startup. Something you’re not going to get from a 5 or 10 weight, but remember the 5 or 10 weight is not a 5 or 10 at 60 or 70 degrees ambient temperature, it thicker! So if it’s a 20W50 and the ambient temperature is 65 Fahrenheit the cold start viscosity is not 20 it is thicker maybe 25 maybe 30 it would depend on the actual oil temperature. Crude oil! No! not all crude is created equal! This is one very good reason to look for the API certified mark on your oil! The American Petroleum Institute certifies that the oil used for making that oil is from good crude among a lot of other things. As a side note there are crudes that can actually cause harm to an engine if used for a motor oil! The oil that you buy that is API approved goes through a multitude of certified testing to get its API approval. These test include test such as deposit test for valves, rings and in general engine sludge. Test for wear. Test for fuel economy. Test for emissions. Test for emulsion and many more. So when an oil is not API approved you are literally playing Russian roulette! Conventional oil vs synthetic vs semisynthetic! What are they? Conventional oil, this is the oil that comes from the refineries as base stock oil for motor oil. The oil manufacturers then do whatever further refinements they choose and then add their respective additive packages. Synthetic oils, these oils come from the same crude as conventional oils most of the time, but then they are taken through a synthesis process! Quite often only certain parts of the crude oil are used. Then other components and compounds are added and some of those pieces are non organic materials. This is all blended almost exclusively under trade secret! Then they add the additive package they have chosen. Semisynthetic oil, this is as it sounds, a blending of the two! Part conventional and part synthetic! The advantage here would be a better shear stable viscosity oil than a conventional oil, but at a lower price than a synthetic oil. Still this oil follows in the same line of thought as the full synthetic! Extending the drain out further because of viscosity stability or cost is counterproductive! This why a synthetic oil cost so much more, there are a lot of extra steps and expense. So what exactly do you get for that? Well from my personal perspective, other than constant viscosity numbers that don’t succumb to shear forces over time! Not much! All the negative impact that occurs to an engines oil does not change by using synthetic oil! All the dirt ingestion, all the fuel dilution, all the combustion gases, all the additives that get depleted, etc., still happen! If you don’t care about the extra expense and treat the synthetic oil as you would conventional oil, then by all means do that! If you are going to extend out the drain intervals because you use synthetic, that is actually counterproductive! Other than viscosity performance, your engine may suffer in the long run depending on a variety of variable factors! Of course if you put a lot of miles on your car and you don’t keep it more than 3 to 4 years and don’t intend to keep it beyond that. Than that’s not such a bad thing! This might be of some interest to some with respect to the whole extended drain issue. At one point back about 2006 and than again around 2010 an OEM approach our team, we were a group of 5 that dealt with these type of projects at the corporate level, about a fill for life engine lubricant! The idea was to use a full synthetic oil with a special filter that, beside the filter element would house a delayed slow release additive package that would maintain TBN, address friction wear, mileage improvements, etc. for the warranty period. We did actually prove the concept, but in the end to many other issues were on the horizon for them that I think got in the way! Next up Boundary layer chemistry. How it works why it’s important & and some of the issues with it!
  12. 5 points
    1969 428 in a 1931 Pontiac.
  13. 5 points
  14. 5 points
    I could do that. I could even give a basic explanation as to how color can be used effectively to know what’s going on in your engines oil as well as your automatic transmissions oil.
  15. 5 points
    Sorry. With everything going on, a bit behind with this... The winner is... @Michael Dalke's 1967 Convertible Firebird 400! Congratulations!
  16. 5 points
    My dad bought bought my 1967 Pontiac Le Mans convertible for me to use at college. Tyrol blue with a white top and dark blue interior. Two speed automatic on the floor. It was ten years old and really needed work then, but it didn’t get it. I drove it through college and early married life and couldn’t part with. I’ve retired from education and have some time and and a little money. So now it is getting some special attention. I’m anxious to get the project finished and on the road again. I’ll post completed pictures when it’s done.
  17. 5 points
    Thanks Ringo! It beats an apartment if you don’t like that kind of environment, and I don’t! two different views on the patio.
  18. 5 points
    Molly, my Golden Retriever, is a bed pig (on my bed of course). She's suppose to be my kid's dog, but you know how children's promises go. She's 9, he's 20.
  19. 5 points
    My 80 Sunbird (JUSTA6) and matching trailer. Justa 6 N Justa66 hangin out
  20. 5 points
    My thoughts on the whole green movement....It is best to probably keep it to myself as I am sure there are alot of "woke"people in today's world who would find it extremely offensive.... So let's just say that I'm not the least bit swayed by the 24/7..365 propaganda machine (You know..The one that says...it's For my own good) that we are being forced to buy into...
  21. 5 points
    My wife just texted me during lunch. Her blood test results came in - stating she is post-menopausal. So there is no clinical need for chemo at all. Again, I appreciate all the support and well wishes from everyone! It is wonderful and more than a bit humbling to know all the support that I have from this group. I truly don't take you friendship for granted. Bless you and thank you.
  22. 5 points
    I had many highs and lows in the 2010s with Pontiac and life. Here they are in chronological order... September 2013: Took delivery of the greatest car I have ever or will ever own... A fully restored, documented numbers matching, triple black, 400 HO, 4-speed 1968 GTO. Named her Black Betty that day! Her she is as she arrived that glorious day... August 2014: Black Betty won many trophies at local car shows and cruise-ins, but the proudest moment came at the 2014 Susquehanna GTO's All Pontiac Show in Landisville PA. If I remember right, there were close to 200 Pontiacs. Black Betty was class "D" 1964 - 1974 Stock GTO... there were 17 beautiful restored GTOs from many east coast states in the class. Black Betty won Best In Class! 2015 and 2016 were horrible. My dear wife Nancy was diagnosed with stage three cancer in March 2015 and passed in July 2016. Had to sell Black Betty to keep up with the bills. As much as we love our Pontiacs, they are just metal and rubber and pale in comparison when your wife of 38 years is dying of cancer. I sold it with no regrets. July 2019: I returned to the Pontiac fold when I purchased a black 1981 4- speed Trans Am (after swearing I would NEVER buy another black car, lol!). Named her Raven . October 2019: I went to the biggest car show (just short of 800 cars) in WV. It is in Charleston WV and they biock off one of the main drags for over a mile and the cars park on both sides of the street. I got to finally meet Frosty and he set me up with a primo parking spot as he is one of the grand poobahs of this event. Spent three days there, got a free detail from one of the venders. I look forward to going again this year.
  23. 5 points
    And that is all she wrote! Congrats to our 2020 Forever Pontiac Calendar winners and thank you to all who entered! This year was a great year and tons of wonderful Pontiacs. The following users are in the calendar (no specific order), I will be reach out to some of you for better quality pictures. If you do not respond by the deadline, we will move on to the 2nd place individual in your grouping: @Lucky @brandyv73 @58Bonne @LN7_NUT @GreenMartian @LawMan62 @Bush71grandprix @4 bucket 67 @FlyGTO @Pontiacs For Life @48Streamliner @stratman
  24. 5 points
    Here are some more pics from the convention.
  25. 5 points
    Here are some pictures of Dimitri's '59 Bonneville.
  26. 4 points
  27. 4 points
    After having some technical difficulties uploading these video files, here they are. After nearly nine years in storage, my Trans Am was running for nearly 20 minutes. I must say, I was amazed and happy. IMG_4882.MOV IMG_4881.MOV
  28. 4 points
    Stopped by the shop to take a picture of the VIN tag so I could add the car to my insurance policy, and snapped a couple new pictures. Progress is being made (slowly) but the end is in sight. Paint is in the buffing and wet sanding stage right now. Hood was painted, and today, the hood tach gets painted. Wheels and new tires installed, barely a half inch of clearance to rear of front wheel well when steering wheel is turned heavily in either direction. Whew!
  29. 4 points
    Yup the wheels take some patients, but these push the things to new heights. The outer rim inset is all finished by hand, as well as all the detail! All those lines on the Indian are carved in by hand! It’s actually a little painful!
  30. 4 points
    Quick response team!
  31. 4 points
    I wonder how this hotel even got any toilet paper.
  32. 4 points
    first one from me is THE Q 400 with 4 bolt block and double hump heads fully internal balanced and blue printed
  33. 4 points
    RamAir Restorations Manifolds. 3” long tubes, three inch pipes to Spintech mufflers. 24” long pipes 3” obviously. Then turn downs. Motor is a 400 bored and stroked to 468 IMG_1081.MOV
  34. 4 points
    Welcome Everyone to Tightass Tricks, with Fitzy. Thanks to the ever plummeting Aussie peso plus the fact I'm TIGHT, here is my latest mini project: valve cover rejuvenation. As you can see, they started off looking terrible. I wire brushed them, then 80 grit, then 400, then I converted whatever rust was left, wet 1200 (at this point, if I was building a rat rod, I would have clear coated them and job done) then VHT primer. Once finished, I'll post a pic of the final result. They are gonna look great. I polished the oil filler cap and the retaining bolts, just to provide a little variety amongst the blue covers. Total cost, incl. paint, sandpaper & rust converter - about 50 Aussie pesos, that's roughly US$30.
  35. 4 points
    Okay, here they are. NOW I can pop the hood and stare lovingly at my freshly painted valve covers. All I need to do now is whip out that little 389 and unbolt every accessory and sand & polish everything until it gleams. The engine runs sweet but I have yet to perform a compression test to see where it's at. I figure that if it needs a rebuild, I might go all out and chuck in one of Butler's 420CID stroker kits. Like Wrongway said - gotta make it mine!
  36. 4 points
    One last thing on the subject, I know the gentleman from my days of dealing with Joe Gibbs Racing, yes NASCAR! You can read through the entire article if you wish, but you can if you wish just scroll down to the underlined paragraph. It will tell you all you really need to know! His article is below —————————————————————————— Of course I've always known that my carefully generated “motor oil wear protection capability data” was completely accurate, but now my data has been validated and backed-up by a total of FOUR other independent Industry sources. They are as follows: 1. Well known and respected Engineer and Tech Author David Vizard, whose own test data, largely based on real world engine dyno testing, has concluded that more zinc in motor oil can be damaging, more zinc does NOT provide today's best wear protection, and that using zinc as the primary anti-wear component, is outdated technology. 2. The GM Oil Report titled, "Oil Myths from GM Techlink", concluded that high levels of zinc are damaging and that more zinc does NOT provide more wear protection. 3. A motor oil research article written by Ed Hackett titled, "More than you ever wanted to know about Motor Oil", concluded that more zinc does NOT provide more wear protection, it only provides longer wear protection. 4. This from the Brad Penn Oil Company: There is such a thing as too much ZDDP. ZDDP is surface aggressive, and too much can be a detriment. ZDDP fights for the surface, blocking other additive performance. Acids generated due to excessive ZDDP contact will “tie-up” detergents thus encouraging corrosive wear. ZDDP effectiveness plateaus, more does NOT translate into more protection. Only so much is utilized. We don’t need to saturate our oil with ZDDP. Those who are familiar with my test data, know that my test results came up with the exact same results stated by all four of those independent sources. So, this is an example where motor oil “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load” using oil testing equipment, engine dyno testing, Motor Oil Industry testing, and proper motor oil research using only the facts, from a total of five (including my own) independent sources, all converged to agree and come to the same exact conclusion. Back-up validation proof, doesn't get any better than this. So, with all those sources in total agreement, that should provide more than enough proof to anyone who questioned my test data, that my data is absolutely correct. And that questioning any one of those sources, questions them all, and questions Physics and Chemistry that determined all those identical results. And no sensible person would try to argue against Physics and Chemistry. Because that is a battle no man can win. ************************** Now, getting to the purpose of this write-up, a NASCAR engine supplier out of North Carolina, was so impressed with the motor oil “Wear Protection Capability Testing” I perform, that they sent me 3 NASCAR Racing Oils they use, for testing. I considered that quite an endorsement, that these guys valued my testing efforts enough to include me, in some of what they do. They have been seeing some wear issues, and wanted to see if I could shed any light on that by testing their oil. They came to the right place. The NASCAR oils they sent me were: 0W Mobil 1 Racing Oil (this was out of a 55 gallon drum) 0W30 Mobil 1 Racing Oil (this was out of a normal quart bottle) 0W50 Mobil 1 Racing Oil (this was out of a 55 gallon drum) In addition to performing my normal “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load”, I also sent all 3 oils to the Professional Lab, ALS Tribology in Sparks, Nevada for them to perform component quantity and viscosity testing. The test results from the lab are: 0W Mobil 1 Racing Oil synthetic (lab tested 2013) Silicon = 7 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number) Boron = 74 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Magnesium = 14 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Calcium = 1938 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Zinc = 1952 ppm (anti-wear) Phos = 1671 ppm (anti-wear) Moly = 1743 ppm (anti-wear) Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor) Sodium = 1 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor) TBN = 8.2 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9) Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 6.1, and cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness. 0W30 Mobil 1 Racing Oil synthetic (lab tested 2013) Silicon = 17 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number) Boron = 67 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Magnesium = 13 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Calcium = 1823 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Barium = 10 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Zinc = 1693 ppm (anti-wear) Phos = 1667 ppm (anti-wear) Moly = 1326 ppm (anti-wear) Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor) Sodium = 1 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor) TBN = 8.0 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9) Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 11.3 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness. 0W50 Mobil 1 Racing Oil synthetic (lab tested 2013) Silicon = 8 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number) Boron = 74 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Magnesium = 212 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Calcium = 1694 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) Zinc = 1676 ppm (anti-wear) Phos = 1637 ppm (anti-wear) Moly = 1263 ppm (anti-wear) Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor) Sodium = 0 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor) TBN = 8.4 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9) Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 17.6, cSt range for SAE 50 is 16.3 to 21.8, and cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness. ***************************** After I performed my “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load”, you can see below how those 3 NASCAR oils ranked regarding “Wear Protection Capability”, just among other Mobil 1 oils I’ve tested, as well as among other oils I’ve tested that had “Racing Oil” in their name. And they are all ranked in the order of their “Wear Protection Capability” values. Wear protection reference categories are: • Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection • 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection • 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection • Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection. 1. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi zinc = 2642 ppm phosphorus = 3489 ppm moly = 1764 ppm calcium = 2,929 ppm 2. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic, street oil = 105,875 psi zinc = 801 ppm phosphorus = 842 ppm moly = 112 ppm calcium = 799 ppm 3. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi zinc = 1669 ppm phosphorus = 1518 ppm moly = 784 ppm calcium = 1,607 ppm 4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi zinc = 1472 ppm phosphorus = 1544 ppm moly = 3 ppm calcium = 2,707 ppm 5. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi zinc = 1180 ppm phosphorus = 1112 ppm moly = 162 ppm calcium = 2,664 ppm 6. 10W30 Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil synthetic = 97,118 psi zinc = 1613 ppm phos = 1394 ppm moly = 0 ppm 7. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi zinc = 2207 ppm phos = 2052 ppm moly = 1235 ppm 8. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic, street oil = 96,364 psi zinc = 742 ppm phos = 677 ppm moly = 81 ppm 9. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 NASCAR Racing Oil synthetic = 95,543 psi zinc = 743 ppm phos = 802 ppm moly = 1125 ppm 10. 5W30 Maxima RS530 Synthetic Racing Oil = 91,162 psi zinc = 2162 ppm phos = 2294 ppm moly = 181 ppm 11. 20W50 LAT Synthetic Racing Oil, API SM = 87,930 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 12. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN synthetic, street oil = 83,263 psi zinc = 890 ppm phos = 819 ppm moly = 104 ppm 13. 5W30 LAT Synthetic Racing Oil, API SM = 81,800 psi zinc = 1784 ppm phos = 1539 ppm moly = 598 ppm 14. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi zinc = 1421 ppm phos = 1338 ppm moly = 204 ppm 15. 0W50 Mobil 1 Racing Oil = 73,811 psi zinc = 1676 ppm phos = 1637 ppm moly = 1263 ppm Onset of thermal breakdown = 270*F 16. 0W30 Mobil 1 Racing Oil = 71,923 psi zinc = 1693 ppm phos = 1667 ppm moly = 1326 ppm Onset of thermal breakdown = 280*F 17. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic, street oil = 70,235 psi zinc = 1,133 ppm phos = 1,168 ppm moly = 83 ppm 18. 5W30 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 64,175 psi zinc = 1765 ppm phos = 2468 ppm moly = 339 ppm 19. 0W20 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 60,941 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 20. 10W40 Torco TR-1 Racing Oil with MPZ conventional = 59,905 psi zinc = 1456 ppm phos = 1150 ppm moly = 227 ppm 21. 10W40 Summit Racing Premium Racing Oil, API SL = 59,483 psi This oil is made for Summit by I.L.C. zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD NOTE: This oil line was discontinued in Spring 2013. 22. 0W20 LAT Synthetic Racing Oil, API SM = 57,228 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 23. 0W Mobil 1 Racing Oil = 55,080 psi zinc = 1952 ppm phos = 1671 ppm moly = 1743 ppm Onset of thermal breakdown = 210*F, which was confirmed by repeated tests. This is the WORST/LOWEST onset of thermal breakdown point I’ve ever seen. So, this oil is STARTING TO FAIL even before getting hot enough to quickly boil off normal water condensation. And this is on top of its very poor wear protection capability. Mobil should be embarrassed to even offer this oil for sale. So, as you can see, these Mobil 1 Racing Oils were poorly ranked at 15th, 16th and 23rd, out of these 23 oils above. And if you look at my “Wear Protection Ranking List” of all 104 oils I’ve tested so far, you’ll see they rank 65th, 72nd and 99th. The wind-up is that the 0W50 Mobil 1 Racing Oil and the 0W30 Mobil 1 Racing Oil only provide MODEST wear protection, while the 0W Mobil 1 Racing Oil only provides UNDESIRABLE wear protection. So, it is quite clear that these modest/poor performing motor oils are NOT a good choice for NASCAR small block endurance engines that make around 900HP, rev between 9,000 and 10,000 rpm, and do that for hundreds of miles. For applications like this, choosing an oil is just as important as choosing the engine components. All 3 of these oils might look good on paper for wear protection, since the zinc, phos and moly are all substantial. However, this is yet another example of how looking at a Lab Test Print Out of an oil’s component quantities, shows you absolutely nothing regarding how well it can protect against wear. The ONLY way to determine the FACTS as to how well an oil can protect against wear, is to perform “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load”, which is precisely why I test oil that way. You don’t just rely on an engine’s build sheet to guess its power/torque characteristics. You dyno test it and track test it, to find out how it really performs in operation. It’s the same thing with testing motor oil. You don’t just rely on an oil’s Lab Test Print Out, you need to test it dynamically at a representative operational temperature to find out what its wear protection capabilities really are. The wear issues this NASCAR engine supplier was experiencing with these oils, is exactly what you would expect by looking at my “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load” test results, which showed that the oils were severely lacking in wear protection capability. Unfortunately, they had no way of knowing this before they started using these oils. But, if I had tested these oils BEFORE they started using them, I could have saved them time, money and grief. An oil’s ability to protect against wear, is determined by its base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, NOT just by how much zinc is present. Using zinc as the primary anti-wear component, is outdated technology. The idea that you need a high level of zinc for a high level of wear protection, is simply an old MYTH that has been BUSTED. Many of today’s anti-wear components (they are often proprietary in nature, and are not specifically tested for, in a basic Lab Test) are not only equal to zinc, but they are BETTER than zinc. Until I started performing Tribology Research, and setup my motor oil “Wear Protection Capability Ranking List”, there was no good way to know which oils provided good wear protection, and which oils didn’t. Previously, all we could do was guess, or use trial and error to determine which oil was good enough, and which oil was not. And even then, we had no way of knowing how various “good enough” oils compared among themselves. But now, we have documented wear test data available. So, all we have to do is look at the Ranking List, and choose an oil that provides the wear protection we are comfortable with for any given build. This is the 21st Century, and we no longer have to guess or use trial and error to decide on which oil to use. Also, engines are best served by using oils that have excellent wear protection capability (no matter how much zinc is in them) during Break-In. If folks use these superior oils, and avoid traditional high zinc, low wear protection capability Break-In oils and avoid aftermarket zinc additives which actually REDUCE an oil’s wear protection capability, worries about flat tappet Break-In procedures could become a thing of the past. The “Wear Protection” test data here DIRECTLY APPLIES to flat tappet lobe/lifter interfaces (no matter how wicked the engine), distributor gear/cam gear interfaces, mechanical fuel pump pushrod tip/cam eccentric interfaces, and all highly loaded engine interfaces. BOTTOM LINE: I have no doubt that this Professional NASCAR engine supplier is using good quality engine components, and that they are building their engines well, so all they need to do is select better oils, and their wear issues will go away. Fortunately, there are many, many far better oils available for them to choose from. Even 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic street oil, that is available at any Auto Parts Store, provides a whopping 47% MORE WEAR PROTECTION than the 0W30 Mobil 1 Racing Oil. Of course, there can be friction reduction capability differences between street oil and Racing Oil. And keep in mind, that friction reduction and wear protection are two entirely different things, and often do not go hand in hand. If a particular Racing Oil does provide reduced friction, that can increase HP. But, you still have to finish, and you have to run strong to win. So, no matter what, your oil has to provide adequate wear protection to get the job done. If I were choosing the oils for this NASCAR endurance engine application, as an Engineer, I’d only select oils from the OUTSTANDING wear protection category, which means oils that produce at least 90,000 psi capability in my testing. Any oil in that category would provide sufficient margin of safety to prevent any further wear issues.
  37. 4 points
    we men are sooooo screwed this is just temporary! Wait tell you retire!😳
  38. 4 points
  39. 4 points
    Yes, I’m old! But mine works when the power goes down or there are no batteries!😁 I have channel locks, 10 pair, multiple sizes, no problem! Thought this might be of interest. If so I can do some other products. Ok, I know everybody has there own thoughts, opinions, likes & dislikes. This isn’t about that! This is just for informational knowledge. Stewy got me thinking about how folks approach cleaning a car, inside & or out & related often times to the products they use. Many of us use products that we know nothing about other than we think we like the way they work, feel or smell! Maybe everybody else said this is a great product. Having spent most of my career in the automotive chemical industry I tended to approach things a little different. Even when I use a new product and I like it I need to know it’s chemical structure, as much as I can. Some products are harder than others because if they use trade secrets than that makes it tuff, but when they use certain chemicals they have to disclose them and in some cases even in a trade secret situation they can’t really hide the odor of some chemistries, if you know what they smell like. Here’s an example. Treating neoprene rubber weatherstrip trim (EPDM) vs windshield rubber trim or belt line trim, (in most cases neoprene). While they are similar in many ways they are uniquely different. One of those ways are the plasticizer they use. This makes what each one will absorb and react with different. Than the manner in which a treatment chemistry is formulated will also determine it positive or negative impact on the material. Black Magic tire wet is probably not something most of you use on your cars or tires! Yet for EPDM weatherstripping, doors trunk and hood it’s the only thing I use! Why, because it uses a particular silicone chemistry, not silicon, that coupled with the dispersant make it ideal to keep that material soft and protected and keeps it from getting those fractures lines you see in that material. But it is a terrible product for tires! As a general rule I don’t use it on windshield trim or belt line trim, except maybe once every couple years. In those cases I use a specific brush. I paint it on and just let it sit, it doesn’t really soak in. It just sits there, this is because of the elastomer. After a day I go back and wipe it off, the surface will than have a more subtle feel, not as hard and blacker in appearance. Sun roof, this is a whole different animal. Some of you may have had one leak. That would be because GM in general uses a EPDM material with a different elastomer, to withstand more heat, but without the proper treatment it oxidizes, gets hard and shrinks. Yes, they sell a treatment to maintain this trim, but at best it only extends the life of this trim. Using the Black Magic tire wet maybe once a year will bring this trim to life! But it needs done in a specific way. Open the glass, using a high quality ½ brush, paint on the tire wet, let it set, in about 15 minutes wipe off what’s left. Close the glass, if the glass closes and opens without sticking, the rubber has degraded, shrunk and you will need to do this again in a few weeks and so on till the glass doesn’t want to open. Once the glass doesn’t what to open, whither the first time or later on, you when need to take a second ½ brush and apply talcum powder to the trim. Close the glass it will close and open nicely. After that apply your regular treatment like usual.
  40. 4 points
    Guess I must be lucky...Mrs. Two Lane is actually pretty good about keeping the trash and debris shoveled out of her car...Her thing is running on empty all the time..Has me wondering if there is some obscure law somewhere that says it's illegal or immoral for women to put gas in their cars...Everytime That I get in her car it is always 99.99% of the time nearly out of gas and I'm lucky to make to the gas station...Without having to walk...Have actually had it run out in the driveway or just as I pull up to the pump a mile away....More than once...
  41. 4 points
    Cleaned up, painted, and reassembled the 1962 fullsize Pontiac rear brakes. Got to use some paint that has been sitting in the cabinet too long.
  42. 4 points
    Hello Pontiac lovers, New to the Forum but have loved Pontiacs since the 1966 GTO was introduced late in 1965. It took me until 1986 to afford one and I found my dream , a “66” ragtop with a 4 speed. It has been completely restored and was the first car in my small “Tribe”. The second addition was a 1950 Pontiac Streamliner Coupe, the third is an unrestored ( except 1 repaint to original color) 1964 GP with most factory options including A/C, the fourth a 1972 Catalina Convertible with air. A Survivor with 28,000 original miles. Great to be a part of the Pontiac family and proud to save a few of these cars from disappearing.
  43. 4 points
  44. 4 points
    Sorry there is only one plus to an electric car and that is a dead start takeoff! Because a electric motor is a constant velocity engine, more so than any other engine! This factor gives it a very unique power curve when compared to any engine of comparable hp, but that’s it! Their torque cures tend to be flat as does HP. Then there is the whole ecology thing, seriously! No wonder snake oil salesmen still thrive today! In this world today as a whole you can not make electricity cheaper than gas and you can not make it without the same pollution effect that go with combustion engines! Anyone that says they can is; you got it a snake oil salesmen! Even wind energy has as big of carbon footprint as petroleum! Anyone who reads about energy extensively knows that! So what is the big push behind electric? Well what was the big push behind poisonous fluorescent lights to take the place of a proven inertia tungsten wire in a glass enclosure? Somebody with deeper pockets than any of us can imagine and someone none of us has ever heard of. Sorry, but it’s true!
  45. 4 points
    Thanks for the support, everyone! My wife got some very good news yesterday. It appears that she won't have to do chemotherapy at all. She asked to see another oncologist (e.g. "got a second opinion"). Her first oncologist had 30 years in the field. The second was a much younger, very much pregnant with twins, women. This lady oncologist review my wife's test and surgical results and consulted with three other fellow oncologists about her case. The lady review my wife's test results line by line and what it meant, the first one did not. She asked if my wife was pre or post-menopausal. The first never asked that question. It seems if my wife is post-menopausal, chemotherapy is completely unnecessary. If she is pre-menopausal, the risk increases only 3.5%! It's not worth doing. They drew blood to determine if my wife is pre or post-menopausal. We will know the results today. Regardless, of the outcome, chemotherapy is off the table. My wife will still have to do radiation therapy for 2-4 weeks, but that is not of any concern, as that treatment will be daily for up to a month, but it should only take 20 minutes or less. Plus there is no chance of hair loss. She is much happier now. Thank you for all your prayers. We did receive a minor miracle here. Your support and well wishes are very, very much appreciated.
  46. 4 points
    It was sunny and in the 50s today, so I unwrapped Raven and went for a drive after she sat in the barn for a month. In the video you will see I have lost a wing off the bird on the driver's side sail panel. Worst of all, you will see a bad scratch on the passenger's side door. I have only my idiot self to blame for that.
  47. 4 points
    When you guys peel off the stickers... place them on clear Saran wrap from the kitchen. Good to go. I have the 1st 10 years worth of the Car Craft Street Machine Nationals among many other car related stuff in many photo albums.
  48. 4 points
  49. 4 points
    GGGGGGGRRRRRRREEEEEEEAAAAATTTTTTT! Knowing the difference between a frosted flake vs. a fruit loop is such a subtle difference with this bunch!
  50. 4 points
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