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Pontiac of the Month

Keane165's 1970 LeMans

2020 January
of the Month

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  • Posts

    • 64 kiwi boni
      very cool car, i had the holden version of yours with the ls2, and did cam, heads etc to pump it to 342kw @ the rear wheels, was a very fun car at stop signs holding back the lumpy cam !!
    • JUSTA6
      Welcome to FP.  You have your work cut out for you with your project. Good Luck. Keep us up with your build with lots of pic's. 
    • Last Indian
      Additionally, I forgot too mention that the Odyssey battery weighs about 26 pounds, sits behind the rear suspension and below CG. So this has a positive effect on handling and braking as well as weight distribution. The movement of the standard wet cell battery @ 52lbs from it’s front location to a 26lb battery to this rear location is the approximate equivalent of taking 200lbs out of the front end. This may not make sense to some, but if you just think of a teeter totter and how moving it on one of the three fulcrum points it has and changing the weight at each end effects it mechanical advantage, then maybe it will make some sense. Both positive and negative 1/0 cables exit the styrofoam spare tire holder at the back end of the inside trunk, at centerline of the trunk and enter the double panel area, (rear of car). At this point the positive cable goes right, (passengers side), and goes to the 300 amp fuse block. The negative cable goes left and gets bolted/grounded at the back panel. So at this point both the positive and negative cables are somewhat short.  Now you need two cables that will run from the trunk area to the front of the car. The positive cable will connect to the other side of the 300 amp fuse block. This cable now exists the double panel at the back of the trunk, runs under the passenger taillight and continues to run next to the inner fender/trunk floor and is held in place, at least intermittently, by the aluminum tape, it continues into the backseat area. Then running next to the inside rocker panel/floor area to the front firewall. Here you need to at least intermittently use the aluminum tape to keep the cable in place. In the process of running both cables keep in mind the need to avoid pinch points and sharpe edges. At this point you will need to, for ease of access, remove the passenger side tire. Once done look at the firewall, just inside and above the frame there is a square plastic body plug. You need to remove this plug. This exposes the inner floor board that slants upwards to attach at the firewall. Here you need to hole saw the appropriate size hole that will allow you to install a rubber grommet that when finished will fit the 1/0 cable somewhat close and this needs to be times two, one positive, one negative. Or one larger hole with a rubber grommet that will allow both cable to pass through. Now continue and run the cable through and into the engine compartment. You will also need to cut two holes in the plastic body plug so you can reinstall that plug, the holes in the plastic plug should be tight to keep any water out. When finished I filled this area with great stuff to ensure water tightness, then trimmed any excess foam, then installed the plastic plug. The long run negative cable will connect at the battery just like the short negative cable does, but when this negative cable from the battery enters the double panel it goes to the passenger side. This cable will then run inside the double panel and exit at the same point the positive cable exists and will run next to the positive cable all the way to the front. It will need to be taped in position like the positive cable and exit through the grommet hole that you previously drilled.  Now we’re in the engine compartment. I will post more soon.  
    • Ringo64
      Looks like you have a project a head of you here  . Best of luck with the repairs and look forward to see how your build goes!
    • FeedBot
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