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  2. Ok sunshine, it's time to post more pictures! We know you've been doing stuff.
  3. After months of hesitation, troubled Japanese supplier Takata finally filed for bankruptcy yesterday. The restructuring clears the way for Takata to be bought by one of its competitors, Michigan.-based Key Safety Systems. Will this be a turning point for Takata? That remains to be seen, but KSS clearly has its work cut out for it. Exploding airbag...View the full article
  4. Happy to help sir! Thanks for sharing a picture of your ride!
  5. Today
  6. Meet the new 2018 BMW X3, a lot like the old BMW X3 The next step for BMW’s X3 crossover looks a lot like the last step. On Monday, the automaker finally revealed the 2018 BMW X3 at its Spartanburg, South Carolina, facility where it is produced alongside the X4, X5, and X6. Is this the 'smoking gun'? Uber promised former Waymo engineer legal...View the full article
  7. The next step for BMW’s X3 crossover looks a lot like the last step. On Monday, the automaker finally revealed the 2018 BMW X3 at its Spartanburg, South Carolina, facility where it is produced alongside the X4, X5, and X6. The new BMW X3 takes plenty of cues from the other crossover SUVs produced at the plant, including the last X3, which...View the full article
  8. The third-generation BMW X3 has been revealed, and though there's big change in its pipeline, it's quite well hidden for now. There's a tease in a new M Performance model, but the big news–plug-in hybrid and possible electric versions–won't come for another year or more. BMW showed the new X3 at its plant in South Carolina, where it's...View the full article
  9. So JUSTA -- what's your next step? I suspect I have an issue with my PCV valve with Lucy as well. I suspect my valley cover is getting filled up with oil on long distance trips thus causing my oil consumption issue on long distance trips but next to nothing when I drive locally. I plan to remove the intake and valley pan later this summer or fall and inspect/repair it. I have a new PCV valve already. Lucy also needs a good tune up with distributor cap, rotor and plugs.
  10. I'll say this flat out .. liability. 99% of bodyshops will refuse to touch this type of work simply because of the liability issue. If cost is an issue, you need to stop right now. Safety is the first and only issue. If your frame is rusted through forward of the rear wheel, it's neither operational nor serviceable. As Black Top said .. if it's rusted through in that location, you've lost a lot of strength to rust in other places too. You don't measure metal strength with an eyeball. And if you're caught with a frame patch and don't have a welder's certification to prove it was done right, you're looking at a world of trouble. Depending on your location, possibly even jail time. Not kidding on that ... I have that first hand from investigating the legality of frame repair on a Jeep YJ I had. I could weld on it all I like ... for off road use. Any frame repair (anywhere) would need to pass a DOT inspection for road worthiness. They won't even perform the inspection without proof of certification on the welder's part. There's a reason replacement frames cost so much ... the liability insurance and certification requirements. And a word of advise from someone who'd been there. If your frame is rusted that badly ... your hard brake lines aren't far behind.
  11. Its funny how we collect catastrophic failure trophies. lol I've got spider gears saved with only 3 of the or so teeth remaining on the gears from a 4 gear to a second gear drop in a race against a blown Mustang. I was owning that ass until the rear gave up the ghost. ha ha good times.
  12. Thank you. Car is totally operational and serviceable. We being veterans know what that means. Can't do a body off due to cost and will most likely weld a new patch over area. BTW, it has a perimeter, not X frame, so should be "simpler". Thank you again for the advice!
  13. Summit tried to find an adapter but couldn't then came back and said they found that would work then showed my car guy and think he is right think the problem is that on the 68 and 69 bonneville's the tanks are long and thinner compared to the ones that are shorter and bigger.Mine looks like it's alsomost 2-/1/2-3 feet both with and depth and maybe 7 deep
  14. Welcome to Forever Pontiac Forums. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  15. Yesterday
  16. ALL ENGINES have some blowby past the rings. I have a PCV and the oil fill is also vented. Never had that much pressure, plug was so loose you could move it around in the hole. Just enough to get the area wet around the plug and would eventually drip on my exhaust manifold. I'm thinkin it wore out the inside of the plug after all these years and when I added the rubber band it was just enough to pull the plug up tight to the bottom of the valve cover. LIL extra pressure and bye bye. Glad it did it on the way home. Took the engine pic at the show. I was worried about how much rubber might have come off N in my engine, but looking at OPG, Ames had a better pic of the plug, they showed me at the local parts store. As it's only 1 inch hole, it was never ment for a breather. Breather was my option going to the parts store, if they didn't have my plug. They had a correct 1 in plug, but its plastic. They gave it to me to get me through til I can get a rubber one. Once the plastic gets good N hot, can't see this lasting long so I put a thin layer of peratex to help hold it in for now. Shipping would be waaay more than the cost of the plug, so I need to make an order and knock some more stuff off the wish list. Know whatcha mean on the blower motor.....Melted the pistons outta the bird a couple times and people thought I was on fire driving home. Whatta mess. Pistons now hang in my hall of fame!
  17. http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/77425-crankcase-evacuation-vs-breather-help http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/crankcase-evacuation-system-opinions-126374.html
  18. Steve you can build positive crankcase pressure and have enough of it to launch a valve cover plug if there is no other way for the crankcase gases to escape the engine thru another purge elsewhere. The crankcase pressure is usually caused by some enivetable blow by the rings. I run an oil cap on drivers side and a breather on the passenger side. I'm pretty sure on some valley pans there is a provision for a PCV valve as well. Jim Butler of Butler Performance will tell you "breathers are for tractor motors" but I'm sure you have to have some type of system to evacuate crankcase gases. When I first bought the Pro Street blown Trans Am, I had a bad issue of pushing oil out of the valve covers and on to the headers at Boost and high RPM's to the point it looked like a mosquito fogger or smoke machine going down the road. I had to run 3/4" hoses from the valve cover breathers on both sides to welded bungs in the collectors of the headers to let the exhaust form a vacuum on those hoses to pull the crankcase pressure from the engine because at boost there is no vacuum to pull the noxious gases from the crankcase.
  19. Anything can be repaired..The question is..Is it economically viable to do so..Chances are if it's that bad in that particular area the rest of it is probably not much better..Just hasn't rusted completely thru all the way yet..in other places ...Am not trying to be negative here..just realistic..At the very least to do it right. Would probably have to seperate the body from the frame and place on a jig..Which would require you find a shop that would have a frame jig for the GM X frame..Or maybe make one for it..after that Would require someone with excellent metal working skill to execute the repair..(expensive) If you just try to patch it while still under the car in that place the results will be less than optimal..Don't know if anyone remanufactures those frames or not .. Might be able find a rust free straight replacement somewhere..which would probably the best solution..
  20. File this under WTF. So my 421 has the original chrome valve covers. One side has a plug in the breather hole. 1 inch. This has been loose and leaking oil, dripping down and discoloring my exhaust manifold. After sanding/repaint the exhaust, I took a small rubber band, twisted it once around the plug pulling it tight and stopping the leak. So after arriving home after the show yesterday, I popped the hood to find oil on the bottom of the hood, and a noticeable missing plug in my valve cover. Lost it on the way home. Question is....how much rubber material is on the backside of this plug? Pulled the valve cover and cleaned the entire head and no trace of rubber anywhere. So did the plug pop out in one piece? or did it split leaving the backside of the plug inside my motor? OPG sells a replacement, but only shows the top side. Looked everywhere for the missing plug, but must have made it to the ground. Backside of the V cover has a sharp edge the plug is suppose to seat against. I'm leaning towards a smaller LIP to hold it in VS the wider outside top of the plug. Seems to me like anything 1 inch would have gotten stuck in a return passage in the head if it indeed split in two.
  21. 1962 Catalina frame has rust through forward of driver's rear wheel where frame ties into lift pad. Slight creak when moving car. Is there any way to repair the area? Otherwise car, is good. Thank you.
  22. Welcome to Forever Pontiac Forums. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  23. No AC but is a convertible running with a 428 engine.Hummm wonder why it had two lines then maybe back then they grabbed whatever off the line to get it out.Also wondering if it could be jarred loose and start to work.Just a thought with this crappy gas now and the gauge is reading 1/4 .
  24. Last week
  25. Does the car have air conditioning? Most AC cars had a return line for gas vapors. Non-AC cars had a single line. So order a sending unit with the correct number of lines.
  26. Post some pics when you have a chance! Sounds like a great project. I personally would go with the Rally II wheels as I don't think the Honeycomb wheels were on 1970 Pontiacs but I could be misstaken with that assumption. Have fun with this project!
  27. Hi Frosty and thanks for the information.Sent this over to the car to see what he thought.He said looks like the doman is to long and thought as I did like you that Impala might work but he said the problem would it only has one fuel line connected to it.I seen mine and it is actually a cylinder about 7in long maybe 4 in dia and the plate most likely about 5 in dia with 5 screw holes wonder why two fuel line one in and one out??
  28. I found this site through my Instagram account. I have a 1970 GTO that I have owned since 1977. It is still under construction. I don't have any flattering photos of it, just a partially disassembled car in my garage. The engine is being rebuilt at SD Performance in BC Canada. Its bored .040 over, forged aluminum pistons, original crank, with the addition of KRE aluminum heads. It is the original block. Will add a 4 speed auto to replace the TH400. Factory equipped with the hood tach. Adding upgrades such as 4 wheel disc brakes, EFI, air ride suspension. I have the factory Judge rear deck spoiler along with the front spoiler to add. both are factory originals, not repo's. Big decision is either Honeycomb or Rally II's in 17" or 18". If you are looking for some comedy relief, check out my Instagram account as 'Ricks Rental Review' . I pick on most of the rental cars I drive. I travel frequently for work so I get the opportunity to drive various new rental cars.
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